Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (130 page)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
In the world of June Cleaver, potatoes were baked at 350 degrees because they were put into the oven along with the roast, which cooked at 350 degrees. We wanted to determine if there was a faster—or even just a better—route to baked potatoes.
After a lot of experimentation, we discovered that June had it right: Traditional slow baking is best. This is mainly because of the effect it has on the skin; the skin of a potato baked at 350 degrees for an hour and 15 minutes simply had no peer. We found the most important step to a fluffy potato was opening it wide when it was hot to let the steam escape, rather than getting trapped in the potato and making it soggy.
SERVES 4
The most important step to a fluffy potato is opening it wide when it’s hot and letting the steam escape to the air rather than being trapped in the potato.
4 | russet potatoes (8 ounces each), rubbed lightly with vegetable oil |
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Place potatoes directly on rack and bake 1¹⁄
4
hours. Remove from oven and pierce with fork several times to create dotted X. Press in at ends of potato to push flesh up and out. Serve.
SERVES 4
Note that the skin on a microwaved potato doesn’t crisp like it will on a traditional oven-baked potato. This method is a good option, however, if you are pressed for time and plan on stuffing the potatoes (see
“HEARTY STUFFED BAKED POTATOES”
).
4 | russet potatoes (8 ounces each) |
Place potatoes in shallow baking dish. Microwave potatoes until skewer or paring knife can be inserted into and removed from potatoes with little resistance, 9 to 12 minutes, turning potatoes every 3 minutes. Remove baking dish from microwave. Serve.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Twice-baked potatoes are not difficult to make, but the process can be time-consuming, and too many versions of this dish feature rubbery skins filled with pasty, bland fillings. We wanted to perfect the process to achieve twice-baked potatoes with slightly crisp skins and a rich, creamy filling. We oiled the potatoes before baking for a crisp skin, and we let the baked potatoes cool slightly before slicing them open and removing the flesh. We found that we could prevent the hollowed-out shells from turning soggy by keeping them in the oven while making the filling. And for the filling, we found it best to combine the potato with tangy dairy ingredients—sour cream and buttermilk were ideal—a small amount of butter, and sharp cheddar cheese for its bold flavor. For a perfect finish, we placed the filled potatoes under the broiler for a brown, crisp topping.
SERVES 6 TO 8
To vary the flavor a bit, try substituting other types of cheese, such as Gruyère, fontina, or feta, for the cheddar. Yukon Gold potatoes, though slightly more moist than our ideal, can be substituted for the russets.
4 | russet potatoes (7 to 8 ounces each), rubbed lightly with vegetable oil |
4 | ounces sharp cheddar cheese, shredded (1 cup) |
¹⁄ | cup sour cream |
¹⁄ | cup buttermilk |
2 | tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature |
3 | scallions, sliced thin |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
Pepper |
1.
Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Bake potatoes on aluminum foil–lined baking sheet until skin is crisp and deep brown and paring knife easily pierces flesh, about 1 hour. Transfer potatoes to wire rack and let sit until cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes; set baking sheet aside.
2.
Using oven mitt or folded kitchen towel to handle hot potatoes, cut each potato in half lengthwise. Using soupspoon, scoop flesh from each half into medium bowl, leaving ¹⁄
8
- to ¹⁄
4
-inch thickness of flesh in each shell. Return potato shells, cut side up, to foil-lined baking sheet and return to oven until dry and slightly crisped, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, mash potato flesh with fork until smooth. Stir in cheese, sour cream, buttermilk, butter, scallions, salt, and pepper to taste until well combined.
3.
Remove shells from oven and heat broiler. Holding shells steady on pan with oven mitt or towel-protected hand, spoon mashed potato mixture into crisped shells, mounding slightly at the center. Return potatoes to oven and broil until spotty brown and crisp on top, 10 to 15 minutes. Cool for 10 minutes. Serve warm.
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add 1 finely chopped onion and cook until soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Add 3 minced garlic cloves, 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, 1 teaspoon ground coriander, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon ground cinnamon, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon ground turmeric, and ¹⁄
4
teaspoon ground cloves. Cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds, being careful not to brown garlic or ginger. Off heat, stir in 1 cup thawed frozen peas; set aside. Omit cheese and butter and stir reserved spiced peas into filling mixture in step 2.
For a slightly smoky aftertaste with just a hint of heat, limit the chipotle pepper to 1 tablespoon. For a little bit of upfront heat, increase the chipotle to 1¹⁄
2
tablespoons.
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add 1 finely chopped onion and cook until soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Omit butter and add 1 to 1¹⁄
2
tablespoons minced chipotle chile in adobo sauce, reserved sautéed onion, and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro to filling mixture in step 2.
Cook 8 slices bacon, cut into ¹⁄
4
-inch pieces, in 10-inch skillet over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer bacon to paper towel–lined plate; set aside. Substitute pepper Jack cheese for cheddar and add reserved bacon to filling mixture in step 2.
Substitute Monterey Jack cheese for cheddar, reduce buttermilk to ¹⁄
4
cup, omit butter, and add ¹⁄
4
cup prepared or homemade basil pesto to filling mixture in step 2.
This variation makes a great brunch dish.
Omit cheese and scallions. Stir 4 ounces smoked salmon, cut into ¹⁄
2
-inch pieces, and 3 tablespoons minced fresh chives into filling mixture in step 2. Sprinkle potatoes with additional chopped chives as garnish just before serving.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
While twice-baked potatoes incorporate additions like cheese, herbs, or other flavorings, the amounts of these additions is restrained so that the emphasis is still largely on the potato. We wanted a potato side dish that wasn’t just twice-baked, but was also really stuffed—with cheese, vegetables, or other add-ins—that would turn the potato into a full-flavored, hearty side or one-dish meal. For a crisp potato shell, we scooped out the flesh (after baking or microwaving the potatoes) and dried the emptied skins in the oven. When it came to the fillings, we found raw vegetables exuded too much liquid. Broccoli, cabbage, and ham all worked well if we precooked them, and we crisped bacon in a skillet first to help rid it of fat before it went into the potato. Butter, sour cream, and half-and-half gave our fillings a luxurious texture. We maximized the cheese by mixing it into the filling and sprinkling it on top. Broiling the potatoes made for a grand, golden finale.
See “SHREDDING SEMISOFT CHEESE NEATLY” illustration that follows recipe.
SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE OR 8 AS A SIDE DISH
To be time-efficient, cook the broccoli while the potatoes are in the oven.
1 | recipe |
2 | tablespoons unsalted butter, plus 2 tablespoons melted |
1 | pound broccoli florets, cut into ¹⁄ |
Salt | |
1 | teaspoon lemon juice |
6 | ounces sharp cheddar cheese, shredded (1¹⁄ |
3 | scallions, sliced thin |
¹⁄ | cup sour cream |
¹⁄ | cup half-and-half |
¹⁄ | teaspoon dry mustard |
Pepper |
1.
Melt 2 tablespoons butter in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add broccoli and ¹⁄
2
teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons water, cover, and cook until crisp-tender, about 1 minute. Uncover and continue to cook until water evaporates, about 1 minute. Transfer to bowl and stir in lemon juice.
2.
Halve each potato lengthwise. Using soupspoon, scoop flesh from each half into bowl, leaving about ¹⁄
8
- to ¹⁄
4
-inch thickness of flesh in each shell. Place shells, cut side up, on aluminum foil–lined baking sheet and return to oven until dry and slightly crisp, about 10 minutes.
3.
Meanwhile, mash potato flesh with fork until smooth. Stir in melted 2 tablespoons butter, ³⁄
4
teaspoon salt, 1 cup cheese, scallions, sour cream, half-and-half, mustard, and pepper to taste until well combined, then stir in broccoli.
4.
Remove shells from oven and heat broiler. Mound filling into shells, sprinkle with remaining ¹⁄
2
cup cheese, and broil until spotty brown, 6 to 10 minutes. Cool for 5 minutes and serve.
SERVES 4 AS A MAIN COURSE OR 8 AS A SIDE DISH
Tender savoy cabbage is our first choice for this recipe, but the soft outer leaves from a head of regular green cabbage can also be used. To be time-efficient, cook the bacon while the potatoes are in the oven.
1 | recipe |
8 | slices bacon, cut into ¹⁄ |
1 | tablespoon unsalted butter, plus 2 tablespoons melted |
6 | cups savoy cabbage, cored and sliced into ¹⁄ |
Salt and pepper | |
¹⁄ | cup water |
2 | teaspoons red wine vinegar |
6 | ounces sharp cheddar cheese, shredded (1¹⁄ |
3 | scallions, sliced thin |
¹⁄ | cup sour cream |
¹⁄ | cup half-and-half |
1.
Cook bacon in 12-inch skillet over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towel–lined plate. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon fat. Add 1 tablespoon butter to skillet with fat and heat over medium-high until butter is melted. Add cabbage and ¹⁄
2
teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until cabbage begins to wilt and is lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add ¹⁄
2
cup water, cover, and cook until crisp-tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook until water evaporates, about 30 seconds. Transfer to bowl and stir in vinegar.
2.
Halve each potato lengthwise. Using soupspoon, scoop flesh from each half into bowl, leaving ¹⁄
8
- to ¹⁄
4
-inch thickness of flesh in each shell. Place shells, cut side up, on aluminum foil–lined baking sheet and return to oven until dry and slightly crisp, about 10 minutes.
3.
Meanwhile, mash potato flesh with fork until smooth. Stir in melted 2 tablespoons butter, cabbage, ¹⁄
2
teaspoon salt, ¹⁄
4
cup bacon, 1 cup cheese, scallions, sour cream, half-and-half, and pepper to taste.
4.
Remove shells from oven and heat broiler. Mound filling into shells, then sprinkle with remaining ¹⁄
2
cup cheese and bacon and broil until spotty brown, 6 to 10 minutes. Cool for 5 minutes; serve.