The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (162 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
1.
Using your fingers, separate skin from meat, taking care to not tear membrane around perimeter of breast; release skin on either side of breastbone.
2.
Using spoon, work half of softened butter under skin on one side of breast. Repeat with remaining butter on other side of breast.
3.
Using your hands, gently rub turkey skin to evenly distribute butter over the entire breast.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Cooking the holiday turkey can strike fear into the most seasoned cook, so we set out to determine what makes a difference (and what doesn’t) once you bring home the bird. First, we found that a standard brine solution works with most any size bird, but timing is key—at least six hours is required to get the full benefits of brining. We chose to skip stuffing the turkey, since cooking the stuffing to a safe internal temperature almost always resulted in an overcooked bird. A V-rack proved essential, not only to hold the turkey in place but also to elevate the meat above the roasting pan, which promoted more even browning and cooking. Turning the bird once during roasting protected the delicate breast meat from overcooking and brushing the turkey with butter at the outset contributed to browning. Finally, letting the turkey rest after roasting allowed for the redistribution and reabsorption of the juices in the meat.
See “CARVING A WHOLE ROASTED TURKEY” illustrations that follow recipe.
HOW BRINING SAVED THANKSGIVING
Once upon a time, the only thing the Thanksgiving turkey had going for it was tradition, which often involved bringing a dry, tasteless bird to the table (with extra helpings of gravy). But things started to look up when nearly two decades ago, the test kitchen came upon an obscure technique called brining. Brining turkey involves soaking the turkey in a saltwater solution (which sometimes includes sugar) before cooking—this protects it from the ravages of heat and guarantees tender, flavorful meat from the surface all the way to the bone. (Brining does the same for other delicate white meat like chicken and pork.) How does brining work? Simply put, the brining solution flows into the meat, distributing moisture and seasoning. In our testing, we found that while a turkey roasted straight out of its package will retain about 82 percent of its total weight after cooking, a brined turkey will retain about 93 percent of its total weight after cooking—and thus be moister and more flavorful.
What equipment do you need for brining? A clean container that’s large enough to accommodate the meat and brine. For large containers (such as a washtub or cooler) that won’t fit in a refrigerator, you need ice packs to keep the temperature at 40 degrees F. For a whole chicken, the test kitchen likes to use a large, clear bucket marked with level graduations—these make handy containers for rising bread dough, too. (Look for these containers at restaurant supply stores or online.)
After pulling your turkey out of the brine, pat it dry to prevent soggy skin. You can also place the turkey on a wire rack set on a baking sheet and allow it to dry overnight in the refrigerator—this will further encourage crisp skin during roasting. As for the salt, the test kitchen prefers table salt. Kosher salt works fine, but the size of the grains varies between the two major brands, which can make recipe testing (and writing) difficult. The ratio of salt to water varies a bit from recipe to recipe, but generally the test kitchen uses 1 cup table salt to 2 gallons of water (this is enough brine for a 12- to 14-pound turkey)
Once a little-known technique, brining has now become mainstream—and Thanksgiving dinners everywhere are all the better for it.
SERVES 10 TO 12
If using a self-basting turkey or kosher turkey, do not brine in step 1, and season with salt after brushing with melted butter in step 5. Resist the temptation to tent the roasted turkey with foil while it rests on the carving board. Covering the bird will make the skin soggy.
1 | cup salt |
1 | (12- to 14-pound) turkey, trimmed, neck, giblets, and tailpiece removed and reserved for |
6 | sprigs fresh thyme |
2 | onions, chopped coarse |
2 | carrots, peeled and chopped coarse |
2 | celery ribs, chopped coarse |
3 | tablespoons unsalted butter, melted |
1 | cup water, plus extra as needed |
1 | recipe |
1.
Dissolve salt in 2 gallons cold water in large container. Submerge turkey in brine, cover, and refrigerate or store in very cool spot (40 degrees or less) for 6 to 12 hours.
2.
Set wire rack in rimmed baking sheet. Remove turkey from brine and pat dry, inside and out, with paper towels. Place turkey on prepared wire rack. Refrigerate, uncovered, for at least 8 hours or overnight.
3.
Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Line V-rack with heavy-duty aluminum foil and poke several holes in foil. Set V-rack in roasting pan and spray foil with vegetable oil spray.
4.
Toss thyme and half of vegetables with 1 tablespoon melted butter in bowl and place inside turkey. Tie legs together with kitchen twine and tuck wings behind back. Scatter remaining vegetables in pan.
5.
Pour water over vegetable mixture in pan. Brush turkey breast with 1 tablespoon melted butter, then place turkey breast side down on V-rack. Brush with remaining 1 tablespoon butter.
6.
Roast turkey for 45 minutes. Remove pan from oven; baste turkey with juices from pan. Using 2 large wads of paper towels, turn turkey wing side up. If liquid in pan has totally evaporated, add another ¹⁄
2
cup water. Return turkey to oven and roast for 15 minutes. Remove turkey from oven again, baste, and rotate so that other wing side is up; roast for another 15 minutes. Remove turkey from oven again, baste, and turn it breast side up; roast until breast registers 160 degrees and thighs register 175 degrees, 30 to 45 minutes.
7.
Remove turkey from oven. Gently tip turkey so that any accumulated juices in cavity run into pan. Transfer turkey to carving board and let rest, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Carve turkey and serve with gravy.
MAKES ABOUT 6 CUPS
Complete step 1 up to a day ahead, if desired. Begin step 3 once the bird has been removed from the oven and is resting on a carving board.
1 | tablespoon vegetable oil |
Reserved turkey neck, giblets, and tailpiece | |
1 | onion, chopped |
4 | cups low-sodium chicken broth |
2 | cups water |
2 | sprigs fresh thyme |
8 | sprigs fresh parsley |
3 | tablespoons unsalted butter |
¹⁄ | cup all-purpose flour |
1 | cup dry white wine |
Salt and pepper |
1.
Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add neck, giblets, and tailpiece and cook until golden and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Stir in onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook until turkey parts and onion release their juices, about 15 minutes. Stir in broth, water, thyme, and parsley, bring to boil, and adjust heat to low. Simmer, uncovered, skimming any impurities that may rise to surface, until broth is rich and flavorful, about 30 minutes longer. Strain broth into large container and reserve giblets. When cool enough to handle, chop giblets. Refrigerate giblets and broth until ready to use. (Broth can be stored in refrigerator for up to 1 day.)
2.
While turkey is roasting, return reserved turkey broth to simmer in saucepan. Melt butter in separate large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add flour and cook, whisking constantly (mixture will froth and then thin out again), until nutty brown and fragrant, 10 to 15 minutes. Vigorously whisk all but 1 cup of hot broth into flour mixture. Bring to boil, then continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until gravy is lightly thickened and very flavorful, about 30 minutes longer. Set aside until turkey is done.
3.
When turkey has been transferred to carving board to rest, spoon out and discard as much fat as possible from pan, leaving caramelized herbs and vegetables. Place pan over 2 burners set on medium-high heat. Return gravy to simmer. Add wine to pan of caramelized vegetables, scraping up any browned bits. Bring to boil and cook until reduced by half, about 5 minutes. Add remaining 1 cup turkey broth, bring to simmer, and cook for 15 minutes; strain pan juices into gravy, pressing as much juice as possible out of vegetables. Stir reserved giblets into gravy and return to boil. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve.
1.
Remove any twine used to truss turkey. Start by slicing turkey where leg meets breast.
2.
Pull leg quarter away from carcass. Separate joint by gently pressing leg out to side and pushing up on joint, then carefully cut through joint to remove leg quarter.
3.
Cut through joint that connects drumstick to thigh. Repeat on second side to remove other leg. Slice meat off of leg and thigh pieces, leaving a bit of skin attached to each slice.
4.
Pull wing away from carcass and carefully cut through joint between wing and breast to remove wing. Cut wing in half for easier eating.
5.
Cut down along 1 side of breastbone, pulling breast meat away from you as you cut.
6.
Cut breast into attractive slices.