The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (18 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
This traditional Thai salad features slices of deeply charred steak tossed with thinly sliced shallots and handfuls of torn mint and cilantro in a bright, bracing dressing. We started on developing our own version at the grill, choosing flank steak for its generous marbling, beefy flavor, and moderate price. Grilling the steak over a modified two-level fire and flipping it just when moisture beaded on the surface yielded perfectly charred, juicy meat. Adding a fresh Thai chile and a mix of toasted cayenne and paprika gave the dressing a fruity, fiery heat. Toasted rice powder, a traditional tableside condiment that gives the dressing fuller body and a subtle crunch, is not widely available, but we found it easy enough to make our own.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Serve with rice, if desired. If fresh Thai chiles are unavailable, substitute ¹⁄
2
serrano chile. Don’t skip the toasted rice; it’s integral to the texture and flavor of the dish. Any variety of white rice can be used. Toasted rice powder (kao kua) can also be found in many Asian markets; substitute 1 tablespoon rice powder for the white rice.
1 | teaspoon paprika |
1 | teaspoon cayenne pepper |
1 | tablespoon white rice |
3 | tablespoons lime juice (2 limes) |
2 | tablespoons fish sauce |
2 | tablespoons water |
¹⁄ | teaspoon sugar |
1 | (1¹⁄ |
Salt and coarsely ground white pepper | |
4 | shallots, sliced thin |
1¹⁄ | cups fresh mint leaves, torn |
1¹⁄ | cups fresh cilantro leaves |
1 | Thai chile, stemmed, seeded, and sliced thin into rounds |
1 | seedless English cucumber, sliced ¹⁄ |
1.
Heat paprika and cayenne in 8-inch skillet over medium heat; cook, shaking pan, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer to small bowl. Return skillet to medium-high heat, add rice and toast, stirring constantly, until deep golden brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to small bowl and let cool 5 minutes. Grind rice with spice grinder, mini food processor, or mortar and pestle until it resembles fine meal, 10 to 30 seconds (you should have about 1 tablespoon rice powder).
2.
Whisk lime juice, fish sauce, water, sugar, and ¹⁄
4
teaspoon toasted paprika mixture in large bowl and set aside.
3A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL:
Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour in even layer over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3B. FOR A GAS GRILL:
Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave primary burner on high and turn off other burner(s).
4.
Clean and oil grate. Season steak with salt and pepper. Place steak on grate over hot part of grill and cook until beginning to char and beads of moisture appear on outer edges of meat, 5 to 6 minutes. Flip steak, continue to cook on second side until meat registers 125 degrees, about 5 minutes longer. Transfer to carving board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and rest for 10 minutes (or allow to cool to room temperature, about 1 hour).
5.
Line large platter with cucumber slices. Slice meat, against grain, on bias, into ¹⁄
4
-inch thick slices. Transfer sliced steak to bowl with fish sauce mixture, add shallots, mint, cilantro, chile, and half of rice powder, and toss to combine. Arrange steak over cucumber-lined platter. Serve, passing remaining rice powder and toasted paprika mixture separately.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Most versions of Greek salad consist of iceberg lettuce, chunks of green pepper, and a few pale wedges of tomato, sparsely dotted with cubes of feta and garnished with one forlorn olive of questionable heritage. For our Greek salad, we aimed a little higher: we wanted a salad with crisp ingredients and bold flavors, highlighted by briny olives and tangy feta, all blended together with a bright-tasting dressing infused with fresh herbs. For a dressing with balanced flavor, we used a combination of lemon juice and red wine vinegar and added fresh oregano, olive oil, and a small amount of garlic. We poured the dressing over fresh vegetables, including romaine lettuce, tomatoes, onions, and cucumbers, as well as other ingredients, including fresh mint and parsley, roasted peppers, and a generous sprinkling of feta cheese and olives. Marinating the onion and cucumber in the vinaigrette tones down the onion’s harshness and flavors the cucumber.
SERVES 6 TO 8
For the sake of efficiency, prepare the other salad ingredients while the onion and cucumber marinate.
VINAIGRETTE
6 | tablespoons olive oil |
3 | tablespoons red wine vinegar |
2 | teaspoons minced fresh oregano |
1¹⁄ | teaspoons lemon juice |
1 | garlic clove, minced |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
SALAD
¹⁄ | red onion, sliced thin |
1 | cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut into ¹⁄ |
2 | romaine lettuce hearts (12 ounces), torn into 1¹⁄ |
2 | large tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into 12 wedges |
¹⁄ | cup chopped fresh parsley |
¹⁄ | cup torn fresh mint |
1 | cup jarred roasted red peppers, rinsed, patted dry, and cut into 2 by ¹⁄ |
¹⁄ | cup large pitted kalamata olives, quartered lengthwise |
5 | ounces feta cheese, crumbled (1¹⁄ |
1. FOR THE VINAIGRETTE:
Whisk all ingredients in large bowl until combined. Add onion and cucumber to vinaigrette and toss; let stand 20 minutes.
2. FOR THE SALAD:
Add romaine, tomatoes, parsley, mint, and peppers to bowl with onions and cucumbers; toss to coat with dressing.
3.
Transfer salad to wide, shallow serving bowl or platter; sprinkle olives and feta over salad. Serve immediately.
This salad made without lettuce is known as “country” or “peasant” salad and is served throughout Greece. It’s excellent with garden-ripe summer tomatoes.
Reduce red wine vinegar to 1¹⁄
2
tablespoons and lemon juice to 1 teaspoon in vinaigrette. Use 2 cucumbers, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut into ¹⁄
8
-inch-thick slices and 6 large tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into 12 wedges; omit romaine.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
The ideal salad niçoise should have well-dressed, well-seasoned components that complement rather than crowd one another. We paired fruity extra-virgin olive oil and lemon juice to create the base of the vinaigrette, then added fresh thyme, basil, and oregano, shallot, and Dijon mustard to deepen the flavor. We used only the finest tuna, vine-ripened tomatoes, butterhead lettuce, fresh green beans, freshly cooked eggs, and Red Bliss potatoes—and seasoned and dressed each component of the salad individually for great flavor in every forkful. Niçoise olives are a hallmark of salad niçoise. If they’re not available, substitute another small, black, brined olive (do not use canned olives). Anchovies are another classic garnish, but they met with mixed reviews from our tasters, so they are optional. If you cannot find tuna packed in olive oil, substitute water-packed solid white tuna, not tuna packed in vegetable oil. Or use fresh tuna. For a grilled variation on our salad, we marinated tuna steaks in olive oil and then seasoned the tuna with salt and pepper before grilling them until they were medium-rare.
SERVES 6
Prepare all the vegetables before you begin cooking the potatoes and this salad will come together very easily. Try to buy potatoes that are about 2 inches in diameter. Compose the salad on your largest, widest, flattest serving platter. Do not blanket the bed of lettuce with the other ingredients; leave some space between the mounds of potatoes, tomatoes and onions, and beans so that leaves of lettuce peek through.
VINAIGRETTE
³⁄ | cup extra-virgin olive oil |
¹⁄ | cup lemon juice (2 to 3 lemons) |
1 | shallot, minced |
2 | tablespoons minced fresh basil |
1 | tablespoon minced fresh thyme |
2 | teaspoons minced fresh oregano |
1 | teaspoon Dijon mustard |
Salt and pepper |
SALAD
1¹⁄ | pounds small new red potatoes, quartered |
Salt and pepper | |
2 | tablespoons dry vermouth |
2 | heads Boston lettuce or Bibb lettuce (1 pound), torn into bite-size pieces |
2 | (6-ounce) cans olive oil–packed tuna, drained |
3 | small tomatoes, cored and cut into eighths |
1 | small red onion, sliced very thin |
8 | ounces green beans, trimmed and halved crosswise |
4 | FOOLPROOF HARD-COOKED EGGS |
¹⁄ | cup niçoise olives, pitted |
10–12 | anchovy fillets, rinsed (optional) |
2 | tablespoons capers, rinsed (optional) |
1. FOR THE VINAIGRETTE:
Whisk oil, lemon juice, shallot, basil, thyme, oregano, and mustard in medium bowl; season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside.
2. FOR THE SALAD:
Bring potatoes and 4 quarts cold water to boil in large Dutch oven or stockpot over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon salt and cook until potatoes are tender when poked with paring knife, 5 to 8 minutes. With slotted spoon, gently transfer potatoes to medium bowl (do not discard boiling water). Toss warm potatoes with vermouth and salt and pepper to taste; let stand 1 minute. Toss in ¹⁄
4
cup vinaigrette; set aside.
3.
While potatoes cook, toss lettuce with ¹⁄
4
cup vinaigrette in large bowl until coated. Arrange bed of lettuce on very large, flat serving platter. Place tuna in now-empty bowl and break up with fork. Add ¹⁄
2
cup vinaigrette and stir to combine; mound tuna in center of lettuce. Toss tomatoes, onion, 3 tablespoons vinaigrette, and salt and pepper to taste in now-empty bowl; arrange tomato-onion mixture in mound at edge of lettuce bed. Arrange reserved potatoes in separate mound at edge of lettuce bed.
4.
Return water to boil; add 1 tablespoon salt and green beans. Cook until tender but crisp, 3 to 5 minutes. Meanwhile, fill medium bowl with 1 quart water and 1 tray ice cubes. Drain beans, transfer to ice water, and let stand until just cool, about 30 seconds; dry beans well on triple layer of paper towels. Toss beans, 3 tablespoons vinaigrette, and salt and pepper to taste in now-empty bowl; arrange in separate mound at edge of lettuce bed.
5.
Arrange eggs, olives, and anchovies, if using, in separate mounds at edge of lettuce bed. Drizzle eggs with remaining 2 tablespoons dressing, sprinkle entire salad with capers, if using, and serve immediately.
1.
Combine two 8-ounce tuna steaks, each about ³⁄
4
inch thick, with 2 tablespoons olive oil in gallon-size zipper-lock bag; seal bag, place in refrigerator, and marinate, turning several times, for at least 1 hour or overnight. Remove tuna from bag, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and set aside.
2A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL:
Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover grill, and heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
2B. FOR A GAS GRILL:
Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes.
3.
Clean grate. Lightly dip wad of paper towels in oil; holding wad with tongs, wipe grate. Continue to wipe grate with oiled paper towels, redipping towels in oil between applications, until grate is black and glossy, 5 to 10 times. Grill fish (with lid down for gas grill) without moving until grill marks form and bottom surface is opaque, about 1¹⁄
2
minutes. Carefully flip, cooking until grill marks form on second side, about 1¹⁄
2
minutes longer for rare (opaque at perimeter and translucent red at center when checked with tip of paring knife) or 3 minutes for medium-rare (opaque at perimeter and reddish pink at center). Cut into ¹⁄
2
-inch-thick slices. Substitute grilled tuna for canned tuna.