The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (17 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
CLEANING SALAD GREENS
The first step in making any salad is cleaning the greens. Nothing ruins a salad faster than gritty leaves. Our favorite way to wash small amounts of lettuce is in the bowl of a salad spinner; larger amounts require a sink. Make sure there is ample room to swish the leaves around with your hands to rid them of dirt and sand. The dirt will loosen and sink to the bottom. Exceptionally dirty leaves (spinach and arugula often fall into this category) may take at least two changes of water. Do not run water directly from the faucet onto the greens, as the force of the water can bruise them. When you are satisfied that the leaves are grit-free, spin them dry in a salad spinner. Placing your salad spinner in the corner of the sink and pushing it down and against the walls increases your leverage by stabilizing the spinner. Greens must be quite dry; otherwise, the vinaigrette will slide off and taste diluted.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
The intensity, complexity, and sophistication of blue cheese can overwhelm the flavors of an otherwise mild and subdued salad. We found that the blue cheese really shined in this salad when partnered with sweet, tart, bitter, and crunchy ingredients. As for the base of the salad, greens like bitter radicchio and peppery arugula mixed with milder lettuces provided the perfect contrast to the rich, sharp cheese. A good shot of vinegar gave necessary tartness to the dressing, and a spoonful of honey performed double duty, tempering the acidity of the vinegar and highlighting the saltiness of the cheese.
SERVES 6
This salad features rich, creamy Roquefort. If you prefer to use a very mild and mellow blue cheese, we recommend Danish blue; if you prefer a sharp and piquant one, try Stilton. To remove the skins from the hazelnuts, rub the hot toasted nuts in a clean kitchen towel. Blanched slivered almonds can be substituted for the hazelnuts.
3 | tablespoons cider vinegar |
3 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
1 | tablespoon honey |
Salt and pepper | |
1 | Braeburn or Fuji apple, cored, halved, and sliced very thin |
2 | celery ribs, sliced very thin on bias |
1 | head red or green leaf lettuce (12 ounces), torn into bite-size pieces |
¹⁄ | cup chopped parsley |
¹⁄ | cup hazelnuts, toasted, skinned, and chopped fine |
6 | ounces Roquefort cheese, crumbled (1¹⁄ |
1.
Whisk vinegar, oil, honey, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
8
teaspoon pepper in small bowl until combined. In medium bowl, toss apple and celery with 2 tablespoons vinaigrette; let stand 5 minutes.
2.
Toss lettuce, parsley, and remaining vinaigrette in large bowl; season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide greens among individual plates; top each with portion of apple mixture, nuts, and Roquefort. Serve immediately.
SERVES 6
This salad features rich, creamy Roquefort. If you prefer to use a very mild and mellow blue cheese, we recommend Danish blue; if you prefer a sharp and piquant one, try Stilton.
3 | tablespoons red wine vinegar |
2 | teaspoons honey |
¹⁄ | cup dried sweet cherries or cranberries |
3 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
Salt and pepper | |
1 | small fennel bulb, fronds chopped (¹⁄ |
1 | small head red or green leaf lettuce (8 ounces), torn into bite-size pieces |
1 | small head radicchio (6 ounces), quartered, cored, and cut crosswise into ¹⁄ |
¹⁄ | cup walnuts, toasted and chopped |
6 | ounces Roquefort cheese, crumbled (1¹⁄ |
1.
Whisk vinegar and honey in medium microwave-safe bowl; stir in cherries. Cover with plastic wrap, cut several steam vents in plastic, and microwave on high until cherries are plump, about 1 minute. Whisk in oil, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
8
teaspoon pepper; while mixture is still warm, add sliced fennel bulb and toss to combine. Let cool to room temperature.
2.
Toss lettuce, radicchio, fennel fronds, and dried cherry mixture in large bowl; season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide salad among individual plates; top each with portion of nuts and Roquefort. Serve immediately.
SERVES 6
This salad features rich, creamy Roquefort. If you prefer to use a very mild and mellow blue cheese, we recommend Danish blue; if you prefer a sharp and piquant one, try Stilton. Use paper towels to rub the skins from the cooked and cooled beets.
12 | ounces beets, trimmed |
3 | shallots, sliced thin and separated into rings (1 cup) |
2 | tablespoons all-purpose flour |
Salt and pepper | |
6 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
2 | tablespoons sherry vinegar |
2 | teaspoons honey |
6 | ounces (6 cups) baby arugula |
1 | head Boston or Bibb lettuce (8 ounces), torn into bite-size pieces |
6 | ounces Roquefort cheese, crumbled (1¹⁄ |
1.
Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position; heat oven to 400 degrees. Wrap each beet in aluminum foil and roast until paring knife can be inserted and removed with little resistance, 50 to 60 minutes. Unwrap beets; when cool enough to handle, peel and cut beets into ¹⁄
4
-inch-thick wedges and place in medium bowl.
2.
While beets are roasting, toss shallots with flour, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
8
teaspoon pepper in medium bowl. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking; add shallots and cook, stirring frequently, until golden and crisped, about 5 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer shallots to paper towel–lined plate.
3.
Whisk remaining 3 tablespoons oil, vinegar, honey, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
8
teaspoon pepper in small bowl until combined. Add 1 tablespoon vinaigrette to beets, season beets with salt and pepper to taste, and toss to combine.
4.
Toss arugula, lettuce, and remaining vinaigrette in large bowl; season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide greens among individual plates; top each with portion of beets, fried shallots, and Roquefort. Serve immediately.
SERVES 6
This salad features rich, creamy Roquefort. If you prefer to use a very mild and mellow blue cheese, we recommend Danish blue; if you prefer a sharp and piquant one, try Stilton.
5 | slices bacon, cut into ¹⁄ |
3 | tablespoons red wine vinegar |
3 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
Salt and pepper | |
6 | ounces cherry tomatoes, halved |
1 | avocado, halved, pitted, and cut into ¹⁄ |
6 | ounces (6 cups) baby arugula |
1 | head Boston or Bibb lettuce (8 ounces), torn into bite-size pieces |
3 | scallions, green parts only, sliced thin |
6 | ounces Roquefort cheese, crumbled (1¹⁄ |
1.
Cook bacon in 10-inch skillet over medium heat until browned and crisped, 5 to 7 minutes; transfer with slotted spoon to paper towel–lined plate and set aside.
2.
Whisk vinegar, oil, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
8
teaspoon pepper in small bowl until combined.
3.
In medium bowl, toss tomatoes and avocado with 1 tablespoon vinaigrette; let sit 5 minutes.
4.
Toss arugula, lettuce, and remaining vinaigrette in large bowl; season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide greens among individual plates; top each with portion of tomato mixture, then sprinkle with portion of bacon, scallions, and Roquefort. Serve immediately.
STORING SALAD GREENS
It’s not unusual for the test kitchen fridge to be packed with salad greens. And although we try to work with the greens the day they arrive, it’s not always a possibility. As a result, we’ve come up with a couple of storage tips for greens. First, remove any rubber band or tie from the greens. Constriction only encourages rotting. Gently wash the greens and spin them dry in a salad spinner. Then, depending on the type of greens, store them one of two ways:
For delicate greens, line an empty salad spinner with paper towels. Layer the dried greens in the bowl, covering each layer with additional towels, and refrigerate. Greens stored in this manner should keep for at least two days.
For sturdier greens, loosely roll the leaves in paper towels, then seal in a zipper-lock bag and refrigerate. Greens stored this way should keep for up to one week.
We applied our storage techniques to basil too, because recipes often call for just a few leaves. First, we found that it’s essential not to wash the basil before storage. In our tests, washing basil before storage decreased its storage life by half. Instead, gently wrap unwashed basil in a damp paper towel. It should keep for up to one week.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
For our Caesar salad, we wanted crisp-tender romaine lettuce napped in a creamy, garlicky dressing boasting a pleasing salty undertone, with crunchy, savory croutons strewn throughout. To start, we cut the extra-virgin olive oil in the dressing with canola oil, which made for a less harsh flavor, and we used egg yolks instead of a whole egg to add richness. For a robust, though not aggressive, garlic flavor we grated the garlic into a pulp and then steeped it in lemon juice. Incorporating a portion of the Parmesan into the dressing while saving some to serve over the salad provided a double layer of cheese flavor. We preferred chewy, crisp ciabatta bread for our croutons and tossed them with a little water before frying them in a skillet until crisp. The water ensured the interiors stay moist and chewy while the exterior crisped. For a flavor boost, we tossed the croutons with a mixture of garlic, olive oil, and Parmesan. Tossed with slices of crisp romaine, our Caesar is better than ever.
SERVES 4 TO 6
If you can’t find ciabatta, a similar crusty, rustic loaf of bread can be substituted. A quarter cup of Egg Beaters may be substituted for the egg yolks. Since anchovy fillets vary in size, more than 6 fillets may be necessary to yield 1 tablespoon of minced anchovies. The easiest way to turn garlic cloves into a paste is to grate them on a rasp-style grater.
CROUTONS
2 | garlic cloves, peeled |
5 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
¹⁄ | loaf ciabatta, cut into ³⁄ |
¹⁄ | cup water |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
2 | tablespoons finely grated Parmesan |
SALAD
2–3 | tablespoons lemon juice |
2 | large egg yolks |
6 | anchovy fillets, rinsed, patted dry, minced, and mashed to paste with fork (1 tablespoon) |
¹⁄ | teaspoon Worcestershire sauce |
5 | tablespoons canola oil |
5 | teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil |
1¹⁄ | ounces Parmesan, grated fine (³⁄ |
Pepper | |
2–3 | romaine lettuce hearts (12 to 18 ounces), cut into ³⁄ |
1. FOR THE CROUTONS:
Press garlic through garlic press or grate very fine on rasp-style grater. Measure out ¹⁄
2
teaspoon garlic paste for croutons and ³⁄
4
teaspoon garlic paste for dressing (discard remaining garlic). Combine 1 tablespoon oil and ¹⁄
2
teaspoon garlic paste in small bowl; set aside. Place bread cubes in large bowl. Sprinkle with water and salt. Toss, squeezing gently so bread absorbs water. Place remaining 4 tablespoons oil and soaked bread cubes in 12-inch nonstick skillet. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until browned and crisp, 7 to 10 minutes.
2.
Remove skillet from heat, push croutons to sides of skillet to clear center; add garlic mixture to clearing and cook with residual heat of pan, 10 seconds. Sprinkle with Parmesan; toss until garlic and Parmesan are evenly distributed. Transfer croutons to bowl; set aside.
3. FOR THE SALAD:
Whisk 2 tablespoons lemon juice and reserved ³⁄
4
teaspoon garlic paste together in large bowl. Let stand 10 minutes.
4.
Whisk egg yolks, anchovies, and Worcestershire into garlic mixture. While whisking constantly, drizzle canola oil and olive oil into bowl in slow, steady stream until fully emulsified. Add ¹⁄
2
cup Parmesan and pepper to taste; whisk until incorporated.
5.
Add romaine to dressing and toss to coat. Add croutons and mix gently until evenly distributed. Taste and season with up to additional 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Serve immediately, passing remaining ¹⁄
4
cup Parmesan separately.