The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (245 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
This salsa is a great way to use up leftover grilled corn. To make this salsa spicier, add the reserved chile seeds. Serve with grilled seafood or chicken, or even with tortilla chips.
2 | ears grilled sweet corn, kernels cut from cobs (1 cup) |
1 | red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped medium |
1¹⁄ | tablespoons vegetable oil |
1¹⁄ | tablespoons lime juice |
¹⁄ | jalapeño chile, stemmed, seeds reserved, and minced |
1 | tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro |
1 | scallion, sliced thin |
1 | teaspoon ground cumin |
1 | small garlic clove, minced |
Salt |
Combine all ingredients in bowl and season with salt to taste. Serve.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
In Mexico, street vendors add kick to grilled corn by slathering it with a creamy, spicy, cheesy sauce. The corn takes on an irresistibly sweet, smoky, charred flavor, which is heightened by the lime juice and chili powder in the sauce. For our own rendition of this south-of-the-border street fare, we ditched the husks, coated the ears with oil to prevent sticking, and grilled them directly on the grate over a hot fire so the corn could develop plenty of char. The traditional base for the sauce is crema, a thick, soured Mexican cream. But given its limited availability in supermarkets, we replaced the crema with a combination of mayonnaise (for richness) and sour cream (for tanginess). Most recipes call for queso fresco or Cotija, but these cheeses can be hard to find. Pecorino Romano made a good substitute.
SERVES 6
If you can find queso fresco or Cotija, use either in place of the Pecorino Romano. If you prefer the corn spicy, add the optional cayenne pepper.
1¹⁄ | ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, grated (³⁄ |
¹⁄ | cup mayonnaise |
3 | tablespoons sour cream |
3 | tablespoons minced fresh cilantro |
4 | teaspoons lime juice |
1 | garlic clove, minced |
³⁄ | teaspoon chili powder |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
¹⁄ | teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional) |
4 | teaspoons vegetable oil |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
6 | ears corn, husks and silk removed |
1A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL:
Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
1B. FOR A GAS GRILL:
Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes.
2.
Meanwhile, combine Pecorino, mayonnaise, sour cream, cilantro, lime juice, garlic, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon chili powder, pepper, and cayenne, if using, in large bowl and set aside. In second large bowl, combine oil, salt, and remaining ¹⁄
2
teaspoon chili powder. Add corn to oil mixture and toss to coat evenly.
3.
Clean and oil cooking grate. Place corn on grill (hot side if using charcoal) and cook (covered if using gas) until lightly charred on all sides, 7 to 12 minutes, turning as needed. Place corn in bowl with cheese mixture, toss to coat evenly, and serve.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Onions are hard to manage on the grill. They slip through the grate, burn, or cook to a leathery texture on the outside while remaining raw on the inside. Because slicing onions into rounds exposes the greatest surface area, rounds were the logical shape for grilling, and slices cut ¹⁄
2
half inch thick were best. We found the onions too susceptible to burning over high heat; moderate heat, with the onions covered, was just right. We stopped the rounds from falling through the grate by skewering them. After developing our grilling technique, we conducted a taste test to choose the best variety. Spanish onions won; tasters loved their meaty texture and complex flavor profile.
SERVES 4
A two-level fire in a charcoal grill allows you to cook an entrée over the hotter side while grilling the onions over the cooler side. Serve unadorned or use in one of the recipes that follow. You will need four 12-inch metal skewers for this recipe.
2 | large Spanish onions, peeled and each cut crosswise into four ¹⁄ |
3 | tablespoons olive oil |
Salt and pepper |
1.
Thread onion rounds, from side to side, onto 4 metal skewers. Brush onions with oil and season with salt and pepper to taste.
2A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL:
Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour two-thirds evenly over grill, then pour remaining coals over half of grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
2B. FOR A GAS GRILL:
Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium.
3.
Place onions on grill (cooler side if using charcoal), cover, and cook until deep golden brown and just tender, 15 to 20 minutes, flipping and rotating skewers as needed. Transfer onions to platter and remove skewers; discard any charred outer rings. Serve hot, warm, or room temperature.
Serve this relish with grilled beef.
Cut cooled grilled onions into ¹⁄
2
-inch pieces and toss with 6 ounces Roquefort cheese, crumbled (1¹⁄
2
cups), ³⁄
4
cup chopped toasted walnuts, ¹⁄
4
cup chopped fresh chives, 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, and 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
This relish makes a great accompaniment to grilled tuna.
Cut cooled grilled onions in ¹⁄
2
-inch pieces and toss with 1 cup chopped pitted kalamata olives, ¹⁄
2
cup raisins, ¹⁄
2
cup chopped fresh parsley, 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, and 1 teaspoon sugar. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Using long metal skewers, thread the onion rounds, from side to side, onto skewers.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Grilling vegetables can be tricky and, often, the big issue is flavor—there’s just not enough of it. We first matched our vegetables in pairs to double up on flavor. Mindful of complementary cooking times, we paired zucchini with sweet red onion and eggplant with red peppers. For the grilling itself, we built a moderate, medium-heat fire and cooked the vegetables for about 20 minutes until they were perfectly tender and full of smoky flavor. To boost the taste further, we whisked up some quick vinaigrettes—lemon-basil and mint-cumin—to accompany the vegetables after they came off the grill. Drizzled with dressing while still warm, the vegetables had enough flavor to be the star attraction of a meal.
SERVES 4 TO 6
The vegetables can be served hot, warm, or at room temperature. After about 5 minutes, faint grill marks should begin to appear on the undersides of the vegetables; if necessary, adjust their position on the grill or adjust the heat level. You will need two 12-inch metal skewers for this recipe.
1 | large red onion, peeled and cut crosswise into four ¹⁄ |
3 | zucchini, sliced lengthwise into ³⁄ |
6 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
Salt and pepper | |
1 | small garlic clove, minced |
1 | teaspoon grated lemon zest plus 1 tablespoon juice |
¹⁄ | teaspoon Dijon mustard |
1 | tablespoon chopped fresh basil |
1.
Thread onion rounds, from side to side, onto 2 metal skewers. Brush onion and zucchini evenly with ¹⁄
4
cup oil and season with 1 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste.
2.
Whisk remaining 2 tablespoons oil, garlic, lemon zest and juice, mustard, and ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt together in bowl and set aside.
3A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL:
Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter three-quarters filled with charcoal briquettes (4¹⁄
2
quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
3B. FOR A GAS GRILL:
Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Turn all burners to medium-high.
4.
Clean and oil cooking grate. Place vegetables on grill and cook until tender and browned, 18 to 22 minutes, flipping halfway through cooking. Transfer vegetables to serving platter. Remove skewers from onion and discard any charred outer rings. Whisk vinaigrette to recombine and pour over vegetables. Sprinkle with basil and serve.