The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (251 page)

SERVES 4 TO 6

Spanish tortillas are often served warm or at room temperature with olives, pickles, and Garlic Mayonnaise (recipe follows) as an appetizer. They may also be served with a salad as a light entrée. For the most traditional tortilla, omit the roasted red peppers and peas.

1.
Toss 4 tablespoons oil, potatoes, onion, ¹⁄
₂
teaspoon salt, and pepper in large bowl until potato slices are thoroughly separated and coated in oil. Heat 2 tablespoons more oil in 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Reduce heat to medium-low, add potato mixture to skillet, and set bowl aside without washing. Cover and cook, stirring with heatproof rubber spatula every 5 minutes, until potatoes offer no resistance when poked with paring knife, 22 to 28 minutes (some potato slices may break into smaller pieces).

2.
Meanwhile, whisk eggs and remaining ¹⁄
₂
teaspoon salt in reserved bowl until just combined. Using rubber spatula, fold hot potato mixture, red peppers, and peas into eggs until combined, making sure to scrape all of potato mixture out of skillet. Return skillet to medium-high heat, add remaining 1 teaspoon oil, and heat until just beginning to smoke. Add egg-potato mixture and cook, shaking pan and folding mixture constantly for 15 seconds. Smooth top of mixture with rubber spatula. Reduce heat to medium, cover, and cook, gently shaking pan every 30 seconds until bottom is golden brown and top is lightly set, about 2 minutes.

3.
Using rubber spatula, loosen tortilla from pan, shaking back and forth until tortilla slides around freely in pan. Slide tortilla onto large plate, invert onto second large plate, and slide, browned side up, back into skillet. Tuck edges of tortilla into skillet with rubber spatula. Return pan to medium heat and continue to cook, gently shaking pan every 30 seconds, until second side is golden brown, about 2 minutes longer. Slide tortilla onto cutting board or serving plate and let cool for at least 15 minutes. Cut tortilla into cubes or wedges and serve with Garlic Mayonnaise, if desired.

Use a cured, Spanish-style chorizo sausage for this recipe. Portuguese linguiça sausage is a suitable substitute.

Omit red peppers and peas. In step 1, heat 4 ounces Spanish-style chorizo with 1 tablespoon oil in 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until chorizo is browned and fat has rendered, about 5 minutes. Proceed with recipe as directed, adding potato mixture to skillet with chorizo and rendered fat and folding 4 thinly sliced scallions into eggs in step 2.

MAKES ABOUT
1¹⁄
₄
CUPS

Process egg yolks, mustard, lemon juice, and garlic in food processor until combined, about 10 seconds. With processor running, slowly drizzle in vegetable oil, about 1 minute. Transfer mixture to medium bowl and whisk in water. Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in olive oil, about 30 seconds. Whisk in salt and pepper. (Mayonnaise can be refrigerated for up to 4 days.)

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Since few cookbooks agree on a method for making frittatas, we had to test a number of techniques to determine which would consistently yield the best frittata, an Italian version of the filled omelet. Whereas an omelet should be soft, delicate, and slightly runny, a frittata should be tender but firm. And whereas an omelet encases its filling, a frittata incorporates it evenly throughout. It should also be easy to make. Our testing found that starting the frittata on the stovetop and finishing it in the oven set it evenly so it didn’t burn or dry out. Conventional skillets require so much oil to prevent sticking that frittatas cooked in them were likely to be greasy, so we used a nonstick pan (one with an ovenproof handle) for a clean release.

See “MAKING A CLASSIC FRITTATA” illustration that follows recipe.

SERVES 4

A 10-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet is a must for this recipe. Cheese and herbs are the simplest additions to a frittata. This recipe (as well as the variations) can be served for breakfast, brunch, or supper, along with a vegetable or salad.

1.
Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees.

2.
Heat oil in 10-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering, swirling to coat pan. Add onion and cook until softened, about 4 minutes. Stir in parsley.

3.
Meanwhile, stir Parmesan, salt, and pepper into eggs.

4.
Pour egg mixture into skillet and stir lightly until eggs begin to set. Once bottom is set, use thin heatproof rubber spatula to lift frittata edge closest to you. Tilt skillet slightly toward you so uncooked eggs run underneath. Return skillet to level position and swirl gently to evenly distribute eggs. Continue to cook, about 40 seconds, then lift edge again, repeating process until top is no longer runny.

5.
Transfer skillet to oven; bake until frittata top is set and dry to touch, 2 to 4 minutes, making sure to remove frittata immediately once top is just set. Run spatula around skillet edge to loosen and invert onto serving platter. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled.

SERVES 4

A 10-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet is a must for this recipe. We prefer to use medium red potatoes, measuring 2 to 3 inches in diameter, in this recipe.

1.
Bring potatoes, 2 cups water, and 1 teaspoon salt to boil in medium saucepan over high heat. Reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are just tender, about 6 minutes. Drain and set aside.

2.
Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees.

3.
Heat oil in 10-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering, swirling to coat pan. Add leek and cook until softened, 5 to 6 minutes. Add potatoes and parsley; toss to coat with oil. Spread into single layer.

4.
Meanwhile, stir cheese, remaining ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon salt, and pepper into eggs.

5.
Pour egg mixture into skillet; stir lightly until eggs begin to set. Once bottom is set, use thin heatproof rubber spatula to lift frittata edge closest to you. Tilt skillet slightly toward you so uncooked eggs run underneath. Return skillet to level position and swirl gently to evenly distribute eggs. Continue to cook, about 40 seconds, then lift edge again, repeating process until top is no longer runny.

6.
Transfer skillet to oven; bake until frittata top is set and dry to touch, 2 to 4 minutes, making sure to remove frittata immediately once top is just set. Run spatula around skillet edge to loosen and invert onto serving platter. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled.

SERVES 4

A 10-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet is a must for this recipe. Blanching the asparagus ensures it stays crisp and green in the frittata.

1.
Bring 1 quart water to boil in medium saucepan over high heat. Meanwhile, fill large bowl with ice water. Add asparagus and 1 teaspoon salt to boiling water and cook until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Drain asparagus and transfer immediately to ice water. Drain again and pat dry with paper towels.

2.
Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees.

3.
Heat oil in 10-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering, swirling to coat pan. Add shallot and cook until softened, about 4 minutes. Add parsley, mint, and asparagus; toss to coat with oil and spread into single layer.

4.
Meanwhile, stir 3 tablespoons Parmesan, remaining ¹⁄
₄
teaspoon salt, and pepper into eggs.

5.
Pour egg mixture into skillet; stir lightly until eggs begin to set. Once bottom is set, use thin heatproof rubber spatula to lift frittata edge closest to you. Tilt skillet slightly toward you so uncooked eggs run underneath. Return skillet to level position and swirl gently to evenly distribute eggs. Continue to cook, about 40 seconds, then lift edge again, repeating process until top is no longer runny.

6.
Sprinkle remaining 2 tablespoons cheese over frittata and transfer skillet to oven. Bake until frittata top is set and dry to touch, 2 to 4 minutes, making sure to remove frittata immediately once top is just set. Run spatula around skillet edge to loosen and invert onto serving platter. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled.

SERVES 4

A 10-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet is a must for this recipe.

1.
Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees.

2.
Heat oil and garlic in 10-inch ovensafe nonstick skillet over medium heat. Remove garlic when it begins to color and discard. Swirl skillet to coat with oil. Stir in tomatoes, olives, basil, and oregano; toss to coat with oil and spread into single layer.

3.
Meanwhile, stir cheese and pepper into eggs.

4.
Pour egg mixture into skillet; stir lightly until eggs begin to set. Once bottom is set, use thin heatproof rubber spatula to lift frittata edge closest to you. Tilt skillet slightly toward you so uncooked eggs run underneath. Return skillet to level position and swirl gently to evenly distribute eggs. Continue to cook, about 40 seconds, then lift edge again, repeating process until top is no longer runny.

5.
Transfer skillet to oven; bake until frittata top is set and dry to touch, 2 to 4 minutes, making sure to remove frittata immediately once top is just set. Run spatula around skillet edge to loosen; invert frittata onto serving platter. Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled.