The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (26 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
At its best, pesto is fresh, green, and full of herbal flavor, but when incorporated into an American-style pasta salad, it can turn dull and muddy. We found that adding another green element—fresh baby spinach—provided the pesto with long-lasting color without interfering with the basil flavor. Adding mayonnaise to the pesto created the perfect binder, keeping the salad creamy and luscious and preventing it from clumping up and drying out.
SERVES 8 TO 10
This salad is best served the day it is made; if it’s been refrigerated, bring it to room temperature before serving. Garnish with additional shaved or grated Parmesan.
³⁄ | cup pine nuts |
2 | garlic cloves, unpeeled |
Salt | |
1 | pound farfalle |
5 | tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
3 | cups fresh basil leaves |
1 | ounce (1 cup) baby spinach |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
2 | tablespoons lemon juice |
1¹⁄ | ounces Parmesan cheese, grated fine (³⁄ |
6 | tablespoons mayonnaise |
12 | ounces cherry tomatoes, quartered, or grape tomatoes, halved (optional) |
1.
Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot over high heat. Toast pine nuts in small dry skillet over medium heat, shaking pan occasionally, until just golden and fragrant, 4 to 5 minutes.
2.
When water is boiling, add garlic and let cook 1 minute. Remove garlic with slotted spoon and rinse under cold water to stop cooking; set aside and let cool. Add 1 tablespoon salt and pasta to water, stir to separate, and cook until tender (just past al dente). Reserve ¹⁄
4
cup cooking water, drain pasta, toss with 1 tablespoon oil, spread in single layer on rimmed baking sheet, and let cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes.
3.
When garlic is cool, peel and mince or press through garlic press. Place ¹⁄
4
cup nuts, garlic, basil, spinach, pepper, lemon juice, remaining ¹⁄
4
cup oil, and 1 teaspoon salt in bowl of food processor and process until smooth, scraping sides of bowl as necessary. Add cheese and mayonnaise and process until thoroughly combined. Transfer mixture to large serving bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to assemble salad.
4.
When pasta is cool, toss with pesto, adding reserved pasta water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until pesto evenly coats pasta. Fold in remaining ¹⁄
2
cup nuts and tomatoes, if using; serve with extra Parmesan.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Developing the best pasta salad recipe was tricky: While some acidity was clearly needed to brighten the flavor of the salad, too much caused the pasta to soften and dulled the vegetables, both in flavor and appearance. We liked lemon juice for contributing a nice bright flavor that was neither puckery nor sour. When we turned our attention to the vegetables, we discovered that, as we suspected, grilling and roasting added more flavor to most vegetables (broccoli and cauliflower being the exceptions) than blanching.
SERVES 6 TO 8
If you prefer a spicier salad, increase the red pepper flakes.
3 | pounds broccoli (2 medium bunches), florets cut into bite-size pieces (7 cups) |
¹⁄ | teaspoon grated lemon zest plus ¹⁄ |
Salt | |
1 | garlic clove, minced |
¹⁄ | teaspoon red pepper flakes |
¹⁄ | cup extra-virgin olive oil |
1 | pound bite-size pasta such as fusilli, farfalle, or orecchiette |
¹⁄ | cup kalamata olives or other brine-cured variety, pitted and chopped |
¹⁄ | cup chopped fresh basil |
1.
Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot over high heat. In separate pot blanch broccoli in boiling salted water until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes; drain and let cool to room temperature.
2.
Meanwhile, whisk lemon juice and zest, ³⁄
4
teaspoon salt, garlic, and pepper flakes in large bowl; whisk in oil in slow, steady stream until smooth.
3.
Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt to boiling water. Cook until pasta is al dente and drain. Whisk dressing again to blend; add hot pasta, cooled broccoli, olives, and basil; toss to mix thoroughly. Let cool to room temperature, adjust seasonings, and serve. (Pasta salad can be refrigerated for up to 1 day; return to room temperature before serving.)
SERVES 6 TO 8
The eggplants can be broiled until golden brown if you prefer not to grill them.
1 | pound eggplant, cut into ¹⁄ |
¹⁄ | cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing on eggplant |
Salt and pepper | |
¹⁄ | teaspoon grated lemon zest plus ¹⁄ |
1 | garlic clove, minced |
¹⁄ | teaspoon red pepper flakes |
1 | pound bite-size pasta, such as fusilli, farfalle, or orecchiette |
2 | large tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into ¹⁄ |
¹⁄ | cup chopped fresh basil |
1A. FOR A CHARCOAL GRILL:
Open bottom vent completely. Light large chimney starter filled with charcoal briquettes (6 quarts). When top coals are partially covered with ash, pour evenly over grill. Set cooking grate in place, cover, and open lid vent completely. Heat grill until hot, about 5 minutes.
1B. FOR A GAS GRILL:
Turn all burners to high, cover, and heat grill until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all burners on high. (Adjust burners as needed to maintain grill temperature around 350 degrees.)
2.
Clean and oil cooking grate. Lightly brush eggplant with oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Grill, turning once, until marked with dark stripes, about 10 minutes. Let cool and cut into bite-size pieces.
3.
Meanwhile, bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot over high heat. Whisk lemon juice and zest, garlic, ³⁄
4
teaspoon salt, and pepper flakes in large bowl; whisk in ¹⁄
2
cup oil in slow, steady stream until smooth.
4.
Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt to boiling water. Cook until pasta is al dente and drain. Whisk dressing again to blend; add hot pasta, cooled eggplant, tomatoes, and basil; toss to mix thoroughly. Let cool to room temperature, adjust seasonings, and serve. (Pasta salad can be refrigerated for up to 1 day; return to room temperature before serving.)
SERVES 6
We like the assertive flavor of red wine vinegar in this recipe.
Salt | |
1 | pound fusilli |
1 | tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil |
¹⁄ | cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes |
2 | tablespoons red wine vinegar |
1 | garlic clove, minced |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
¹⁄ | teaspoon pepper |
4 | ounces (4 cups) baby arugula |
¹⁄ | cup green olives, pitted and sliced |
6 | ounces fresh mozzarella cheese, cut into ¹⁄ |
1.
Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot over high heat. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt to boiling water. Cook until pasta is al dente and drain. Rinse pasta under cold running water. Drain pasta well, transfer it to large mixing bowl, and toss it with olive oil. Set aside.
2.
Drain tomatoes, reserving oil. (You should have ¹⁄
3
cup reserved oil. If necessary, make up difference with extra-virgin olive oil.) Coarsely chop tomatoes. Whisk reserved oil with vinegar, garlic, salt, and pepper in small bowl.
3.
Add arugula, olives, mozzarella, and chopped tomatoes to bowl with pasta. Pour tomato vinaigrette over pasta, toss gently, and serve immediately.
SERVES 6 TO 8
When roasted, fennel mellows and turns slightly sweet.
2 | fennel bulbs, stalks discarded, halved, cored, and cut into ¹⁄ |
2 | red onions, sliced into ¹⁄ |
¹⁄ | cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
Salt and pepper | |
¹⁄ | teaspoon grated lemon zest plus ¹⁄ |
1 | garlic clove, minced |
1 | pound bite-size pasta such as fusilli, farfalle, or orecchiette |
¹⁄ | cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, patted dry and sliced thin |
¹⁄ | cup chopped fresh basil |
1.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Toss fennel and onions with 2 tablespoons oil and salt and pepper to taste and transfer to large baking sheet. Roast until tender and lightly browned, 15 to 17 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.
2.
Meanwhile, whisk lemon juice and zest, garlic, ³⁄
4
teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste in large bowl; whisk in remaining ¹⁄
2
cup oil in slow, steady stream until smooth.
3.
Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot over high heat. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt to boiling water. Cook until pasta is al dente and drain. Whisk dressing again to blend; add hot pasta, cooled fennel and onions, sun-dried tomatoes, and basil; toss to mix thoroughly. Let cool to room temperature, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve. (Pasta salad can be refrigerated for up to 1 day; return to room temperature before serving.)
SERVES 6 TO 8
Chives work particularly well with the asparagus and peppers, but you can substitute fresh mint, parsley, or basil.
1¹⁄ | pounds asparagus, trimmed and cut into 2-inch pieces |
3 | large red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1¹⁄ |
¹⁄ | cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil |
Salt and pepper | |
¹⁄ | teaspoon grated lemon zest plus ¹⁄ |
1 | garlic clove, minced |
1 | pound bite-size pasta such as fusilli, farfalle, or orecchiette |
3 | tablespoons chopped fresh chives |
¹⁄ | cup grated Parmesan cheese |
1.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Toss asparagus and peppers with 2 tablespoons oil, salt and pepper to taste, and transfer to large baking sheet. Roast until tender and lightly browned, 15 to 17 minutes; let cool to room temperature.
2.
Meanwhile, whisk lemon juice and zest, ³⁄
4
teaspoon salt, garlic, and pepper to taste in large bowl; whisk in remaining ³⁄
4
cup oil in slow, steady stream until smooth.
3.
Bring 4 quarts water to boil in large pot over high heat. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt to boiling water. Cook until pasta is al dente and drain. Whisk dressing again to blend; add hot pasta, cooled asparagus and peppers, chives, and grated Parmesan; toss to mix thoroughly. Let cool to room temperature, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve. (Pasta salad can be refrigerated for up to 1 day; return to room temperature before serving.)