The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (30 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
For a creamy and light potato salad, we did as the Austrians do: ditch the mayo and look to the soup pot. Simmering the potatoes in a shallow pan with chicken stock, water, sugar, and salt yielded deeply flavored potatoes. Yukon Golds had just enough starch to contribute creaminess without breaking apart. For the dressing, a little mashed potato thickened it perfectly every time.
SERVES 4 TO 6
The finished salad should be creamy and loose, with chunks of potato that keep their shape but are very tender. If you can’t find cornichons, chopped kosher dill pickles can be substituted. For best results, don’t refrigerate the salad; it should be served within 4 hours of preparation.
2 | pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, quartered lengthwise, and cut into ¹⁄ |
1 | cup low-sodium chicken broth |
1 | cup water |
Salt and pepper | |
1 | tablespoon sugar |
2 | tablespoons white wine vinegar |
1 | tablespoon Dijon mustard |
¹⁄ | cup vegetable oil |
1 | small red onion, chopped fine |
6 | cornichons, minced (2 tablespoons) |
2 | tablespoons minced fresh chives |
1.
Bring potatoes, broth, water, 1 teaspoon salt, sugar, and 1 tablespoon vinegar to boil in 12-inch skillet over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until potatoes offer no resistance when pierced with paring knife, 15 to 17 minutes. Remove cover, increase heat to high (so cooking liquid will reduce), and cook 2 minutes.
2.
Drain potatoes in colander set over large bowl, reserving cooking liquid. Set drained potatoes aside. Pour off and discard all but ¹⁄
2
cup cooking liquid (if ¹⁄
2
cup liquid does not remain, add water to make ¹⁄
2
cup). Whisk remaining tablespoon vinegar, mustard, and oil into cooking liquid.
3.
Add ¹⁄
2
cup cooked potatoes to bowl with cooking liquid mixture and mash with potato masher or fork until thick sauce forms (mixture will be slightly chunky). Add remaining potatoes, onion, cornichons, and chives, folding gently with rubber spatula to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve warm or at room temperature.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
To create a creamy chicken salad that tasted moist and flavorful, not bland or waterlogged, we tried wet cooking methods, including poaching and steaming, roasting in foil (which is similar to steaming), and, in a method new to us, dropping the chicken into simmering aromatic water and then removing the pot from the heat and letting the chicken and water cool to room temperature. Unfortunately, all four methods produced a bland, unmistakably boiled flavor. Roasting chicken breasts was another matter. Even after the flavorful skin and bones were removed, the meat tasted roasted, and the resulting chicken salad was superb. A mayonnaise-based dressing brightened with lemon juice and accented with celery, scallions, and parsley bound together our moist chicken for a chicken salad that was anything but boring.
SERVES 6
In addition to the parsley, you can flavor the salad with 2 tablespoons of minced fresh tarragon or basil. Use the higher amount of mayonnaise for a creamier chicken salad and likewise, use the higher amount of lemon juice for a tangier flavor.
CHICKEN
2 | (1¹⁄ |
1 | tablespoon vegetable oil |
Salt |
SALAD
2 | celery ribs, cut into small dice |
2 | scallions, minced |
³⁄ | cup mayonnaise |
1¹⁄ | tablespoons lemon juice |
2 | tablespoons minced fresh parsley |
1.
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Set breasts on small, aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet. Brush with oil and sprinkle generously with salt. Roast until chicken registers 160 degrees, 35 to 40 minutes. Let cool to room temperature, remove skin and bones, and shred meat into bite-size pieces (about 5 cups).
2.
Using the lesser amounts of mayonnaise and lemon juice, mix all salad ingredients (including chicken) together in large bowl. Adjust flavor and consistency with additional mayonnaise and lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Chicken salad can be refrigerated overnight.)
Add 6 tablespoons golden raisins, 1 tablespoon honey, and 2 teaspoons curry powder. Substitute cilantro for parsley.
Add 1 large crisp apple, cored and cut into medium dice, and 6 tablespoons chopped toasted walnuts.
Try serving this Asian-style salad on a bed of baby spinach leaves with sliced cucumber and radishes or rolled in a flour tortilla with shredded iceberg lettuce or watercress.
Omit mayonnaise and lemon juice. In small bowl, whisk together ¹⁄
3
cup rice vinegar, 3 tablespoons hoisin sauce, 1¹⁄
2
tablespoons soy sauce, and 1 tablespoon minced or grated fresh ginger. Whisk in 3 tablespoons vegetable oil and 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil until combined. Substitute cilantro for parsley.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
While we love traditional, creamy chicken salad, sometimes we crave a dinner-style chicken salad. Trading in vinaigrette dressing for the usual mayonnaise was our first step. Adding an emulsifier such as pureed roasted red pepper or peanut butter, not only provided stability but also contributed bold flavor. Using a blender to mix the dressings provided insurance against separation. We preferred a mix of white and dark meat so we opted to roast a whole chicken. With bright, creamy dressing at the ready, we just stirred in handfuls of fresh vegetables, herbs, and toasted nuts along with the chicken for a fresh, flavorful take on classic chicken salad.
SERVES 6
This recipe is best served over salad greens.
¹⁄ | cup extra-virgin olive oil plus 1 additional tablespoon |
¹⁄ | cup red wine vinegar |
¹⁄ | cup oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, rinsed and minced |
1 | small garlic clove, minced |
Salt and pepper | |
¹⁄ | pound asparagus, trimmed and cut on bias into 1-inch lengths |
1 | cup chopped fresh basil |
1 | recipe |
3 | ounces goat cheese, crumbled (³⁄ |
¹⁄ | cup pine nuts, toasted |
1.
Puree ¹⁄
2
cup oil, vinegar, sun-dried tomatoes, garlic, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
2
teaspoon pepper in blender until smooth. Transfer to large bowl. (Dressing may be made ahead of time, covered, and refrigerated overnight. Whisk to recombine before using.)
2.
Heat remaining tablespoon oil in 10-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until beginning to smoke; add asparagus, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
4
teaspoon pepper; cook until asparagus is browned and almost tender, about 3 minutes, stirring occasionally. Transfer to plate and let cool.
3.
Add cooled asparagus and basil to vinaigrette; stir to combine. Add chicken and toss gently to combine; let stand at room temperature 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and sprinkle with goat cheese, if using, and pine nuts. Serve immediately.
SERVES 6
This recipe is best served over salad greens.
¹⁄ | cup canola oil |
3 | tablespoons smooth peanut butter |
¹⁄ | cup lime juice (3 to 4 limes) |
2 | tablespoons water |
Salt and pepper | |
3 | small garlic cloves, minced |
2 | teaspoons grated fresh ginger |
2 | tablespoons light brown sugar |
1¹⁄ | teaspoons red pepper flakes |
¹⁄ | cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut into 1-inch-long matchsticks |
1 | carrot, peeled and shredded |
4 | scallions, sliced thin |
3 | tablespoons minced fresh cilantro |
1 | recipe |
¹⁄ | cup unsalted peanuts, toasted and chopped |
1.
Puree oil, peanut butter, lime juice, water, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt, garlic, ginger, brown sugar, and pepper flakes in blender until combined. Transfer to large bowl. (Dressing may be made ahead of time, covered, and refrigerated overnight. Whisk to recombine before using.)
2.
Add cucumber, carrot, scallions, and cilantro to vinaigrette; toss to combine. Add chicken and toss gently to combine; let stand at room temperature 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and sprinkle with peanuts. Serve immediately.
SERVES 6
This recipe is best served over salad greens.
1¹⁄ | cups chopped jarred roasted red peppers |
¹⁄ | cup extra-virgin olive oil |
3 | tablespoons sherry vinegar or balsamic vinegar |
1 | small garlic clove, minced |
Salt and pepper | |
2 | celery ribs, sliced very thin |
¹⁄ | cup chopped pitted green olives |
3 | tablespoons minced fresh parsley |
1 | small shallot, minced |
1 | recipe |
¹⁄ | cup sliced almonds, toasted |
1.
Puree ²⁄
3
cup roasted red peppers, oil, vinegar, garlic, ¹⁄
4
teaspoon salt, and ¹⁄
2
teaspoon pepper in blender until smooth. Transfer to bowl.
2.
Add celery, olives, parsley, shallot, and remaining ²⁄
3
cup red peppers to vinaigrette; stir to combine. Add chicken and toss gently to combine; let stand at room temperature 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and sprinkle with almonds. Serve immediately.