The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (309 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
MAKING LAYER CAKES AHEAD
Making a layer cake involves a commitment of time, but a lot of the work can be done in advance. First, you can make the cake layers ahead. After the cakes have cooled, they can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and kept at room temperature for up to 1 day. Or, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and then aluminum foil, the cakes can be frozen for up to 1 month. Defrost the cakes at room temperature before unwrapping and frosting them. Second, most of the cakes in this chapter (except for
STRAWBERRY CREAM CAKE
) can be fully assembled and stored in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours with little to no effect on the texture or taste. The tricky part is finding enough space in your refrigerator (we’ll leave that up to you) and covering the cake without damaging it. If you don’t have a domed cake cover, we found a common kitchen tool, the bowl from a salad spinner inverted over the cake, to be the perfect solution—it’s also a great way to transport a cake if you are taking it on the road. Always bring the cake to room temperature before serving it.
MAKES 3 CUPS
We also like this icing with
RED VELVET CHIFFON CAKE
.
2 | large egg whites |
1 | cup (7 ounces) sugar |
¹⁄ | cup water |
1 | tablespoon lemon juice |
1 | tablespoon corn syrup |
Combine all ingredients in bowl of stand mixer and set over medium saucepan filled with 1 inch of barely simmering water (do not let bowl touch water). Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture registers 160 degrees, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove bowl from heat. Fit stand mixer with whisk and whip egg white mixture on medium speed until soft peaks form, about 5 minutes. Increase speed to medium-high and continue to whip until mixture has cooled to room temperature and stiff peaks form, about 5 minutes longer.
MAKES 3 CUPS
2 | large egg whites |
1 | cup (7 ounces) sugar |
¹⁄ | cup plus 1 tablespoon water |
1 | tablespoon corn syrup |
1 | teaspoon vanilla extract |
Combine all ingredients in bowl of stand mixer and set bowl over medium saucepan filled with 1 inch of barely simmering water (do not let bottom of bowl touch water). Cook, stirring constantly, until sugar is dissolved and mixture registers 160 degrees, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove bowl from heat. Fit stand mixer with whisk and whip egg white mixture on medium speed until soft peaks form, about 5 minutes. Increase speed to medium-high and continue to whip until mixture has cooled to room temperature and stiff peaks form, about 5 minutes longer.
MAKES 3 CUPS
2 | large egg whites |
1 | cup (7 ounces) sugar |
1 | teaspoon grated orange zest plus ¹⁄ |
1 | tablespoon corn syrup |
Combine egg whites, sugar, orange juice, and corn syrup in bowl of stand mixer and set bowl over medium saucepan filled with 1 inch of barely simmering water (do not let bottom of bowl touch water). Cook, stirring constantly, until sugar is dissolved and mixture registers 160 degrees, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove bowl from heat. Fit stand mixer with whisk and whip egg white mixture on medium speed until soft peaks form, about 5 minutes. Increase speed to medium-high and continue to whip until mixture has cooled to room temperature and stiff peaks form, about 5 minutes longer, adding orange zest during last minute.
MAKES 3 CUPS
2 | large egg whites |
1 | cup (7 ounces) sugar |
¹⁄ | cup plus 1 tablespoon water |
1 | tablespoon corn syrup |
¹⁄ | teaspoon almond extract |
³⁄ | cup almonds, toasted and chopped |
Combine egg whites, sugar, water, corn syrup, and almond extract in bowl of stand mixer and set bowl over medium saucepan filled with 1 inch of barely simmering water (do not let bottom of bowl touch water). Cook, stirring constantly, until sugar is dissolved and mixture registers 160 degrees, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove bowl from heat. Fit stand mixer with whisk and whip egg white mixture on medium speed until soft peaks form, about 5 minutes. Increase speed to medium-high and continue to whip until mixture has cooled to room temperature and stiff peaks form, about 5 minutes longer. Using rubber spatula, gently fold in almonds.
MAKES 3 CUPS
2 | large egg whites |
1 | cup (7 ounces) sugar |
¹⁄ | cup plus 1 tablespoon water |
1 | tablespoon corn syrup |
¹⁄ | teaspoon vanilla extract |
³⁄ | cup (2¹⁄ |
Combine egg whites, sugar, water, corn syrup, and vanilla in bowl of stand mixer and set over medium saucepan filled with 1 inch of barely simmering water (do not let bottom of bowl touch water). Cook, stirring constantly, until sugar is dissolved and mixture registers 160 degrees, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove bowl from heat. Fit stand mixer with whisk attachment and whip egg white mixture on medium speed until soft peaks form, about 5 minutes. Increase speed to medium-high and continue to whip until mixture has cooled to room temperature and stiff peaks form, about 5 minutes longer. Using rubber spatula, gently fold in coconut.
1.
Using 4 strips of parchment paper, form square with open center on top of cake platter. The parchment will catch any icing, so platter remains clean.
2.
Place 1 cake layer on platter centered over parchment square. Place 1 to 1¹⁄
2
cups icing (depending on recipe) in center of bottom cake layer and, using large spatula, spread in even layer right to edge of cake.
3.
Place second cake layer on top, making sure layers are aligned. Frost top in same manner as first layer, this time spreading icing until slightly over edge.
4.
Gather a few tablespoons of frosting onto tip of spatula and gently spread icing onto side of cake. Smooth frosting by gently running edge of spatula around cake. Or create billows by pressing back of spoon into frosting and twirling spoon as you lift away.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Too often, a coconut cake is just plain white cake with plain white frosting sprinkled with shredded coconut, lacking any real coconut flavor. Coconut cake should be perfumed inside and out with the cool, subtle, mysterious essence of coconut. Its layers of snowy white cake should be moist and tender, with a delicate, yielding crumb, and the icing a silky, gently sweetened coat covered with a deep drift of downy coconut. For this type of cake, we found a traditional butter cake to be best. To infuse this cake with maximum coconut flavor, we relied on coconut extract and cream of coconut in the cake and the buttercream icing. We also coated the cake with a generous amount of shredded coconut for more flavor and textural interest.
See “ASSEMBLING A FOUR-LAYER CAKE” illustrations that follow recipe.
SERVES 10 TO 12
Be sure to use cream of coconut (such as Coco López) and not coconut milk here. One 15-ounce can is enough for both the cake and the icing; make sure to stir it well before using because it separates upon standing.
CAKE
1 | large egg plus 5 large whites |
³⁄ | cup cream of coconut |
¹⁄ | cup water |
1 | teaspoon vanilla extract |
1 | teaspoon coconut extract |
2¹⁄ | cups (9 ounces) cake flour |
1 | cup (7 ounces) sugar |
1 | tablespoon baking powder |
³⁄ | teaspoon salt |
12 | tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 12 pieces and softened |
3 | cups (9 ounces) sweetened shredded coconut |
ICING
4 | large egg whites |
1 | cup (7 ounces) sugar |
Pinch salt | |
1 | pound unsalted butter (4 sticks), each stick cut into 6 pieces and softened |
¹⁄ | cup cream of coconut |
1 | teaspoon coconut extract |
1 | teaspoon vanilla extract |
1. FOR THE CAKE:
Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Grease two 9-inch round cake pans, line with parchment paper, grease parchment, and flour pans.
2.
Whisk egg and egg whites together in 2-cup liquid measuring cup. Add cream of coconut, water, vanilla, and coconut extract and whisk until thoroughly combined.
3.
Using stand mixer fitted with paddle, mix flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt on low speed until combined. Add butter, 1 piece at a time, and mix until only pea-size pieces remain, about 1 minute. Add half of egg mixture, increase speed to medium-high, and beat until light and fluffy, about 1 minute. Reduce speed to medium-low, add remaining milk mixture, and beat until incorporated, about 30 seconds. Give batter final stir by hand.
4.
Divide batter evenly between prepared pans and smooth tops with rubber spatula. Bake cake until toothpick inserted in centers comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Do not turn off oven. Let cakes cool in pans on wire rack for 10 minutes. Remove cakes from pans, discard parchment, and let cool completely, about 2 hours, before frosting. (Cooled cakes can be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and kept at room temperature for up to 1 day. Wrapped tightly in plastic, then aluminum foil, cakes can be frozen for up to 1 month. Defrost cakes at room temperature before unwrapping and frosting.)
5.
While cakes are cooling, spread shredded coconut on rimmed baking sheet; toast in oven until shreds are a mix of golden brown and white, about 15 to 20 minutes, stirring 2 or 3 times. Let cool to room temperature.
6. FOR THE ICING:
Combine egg whites, sugar, and salt in bowl of stand mixer and set over medium saucepan filled with 1 inch of barely simmering water (do not let bottom of bowl touch water). Whisk constantly until mixture is opaque and warm to the touch and registers about 120 degrees, about 2 minutes.
7.
Remove bowl from heat. Fit stand mixer with whisk and whip egg white mixture on high speed until barely warm (about 80 degrees), glossy, and sticky, about 7 minutes. Reduce speed to medium-high and whip in butter, 1 piece at a time, followed by cream of coconut, coconut extract, and vanilla, scraping down bowl as needed. Continue to whip at medium-high speed until combined, about 1 minute.
8. TO ASSEMBLE THE CAKE:
Place cooled cake layers on top of each other and make ¹⁄
8
-inch-deep vertical cut into side of each cake layer. With long serrated knife, use sawing motion to cut cakes in half horizontally so that each cake forms 2 layers.
9.
Line edges of cake platter with 4 strips of parchment paper to keep platter clean. Place 1 cake layer on prepared platter. Place about ³⁄
4
cup icing in center of bottom cake layer and, using large spatula, spread in even layer right to edge of cake. Carefully place other cake layer on top of icing, aligning cuts so that layers are even. Repeat using remaining cake layers and more icing, spreading icing until slightly over edge of top layer. Gather more frosting on tip of spatula and gently spread icing onto side of cake. Smooth icing by gently running edge of spatula around cake and leveling ridge that forms around top edge, or create billows by pressing back of spoon into icing and twirling spoon as you lift away. Carefully pull out pieces of parchment from beneath cake before serving. (Assembled cake can be refrigerated for up to 1 day. Bring to room temperature before serving.)