The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (335 page)

SERVES 8

You can use
ALL-BUTTER
or
“CLASSIC SINGLE-CRUST PIE DOUGH FOR CUSTARD PIES”
for this pie. Whisking the milk slowly into the brown sugar mixture keeps the sugar from lumping. Don’t worry if the sugar lumps—it will dissolve as the milk heats—but make sure not to add the egg-cornstarch mixture until the sugar completely dissolves.

FILLING

TOPPING

1.
Whisk evaporated milk, cornstarch, and salt together in medium bowl, then whisk in egg yolks.

2.
Stir butter and brown sugar together in medium saucepan and cook over medium heat until mixture turns creamy and begins to bubble vigorously, about 5 minutes. Slowly whisk in milk until sugar has dissolved. Slowly whisk in evaporated milk mixture and continue to cook, whisking constantly, until mixture thickens slightly, about 1 minute. Off heat, whisk in vanilla. Let mixture cool until just warm, stirring often, about 5 minutes.

3.
Pour warm filling into cooled prebaked pie crust. Lay sheet of plastic wrap directly on surface of filling and refrigerate pie until filling is chilled and set, about 4 hours.

4. FOR THE TOPPING:
Once pie is chilled, use stand mixer fitted with whisk to whip cream, sugar, and vanilla on medium-low speed until foamy, about 1 minute. Increase speed to high and whip until soft peaks form, 1 to 3 minutes. Spread whipped cream attractively over top of pie.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Chocolate cream pies can look superb but they’re often gluey, overly sweet, and impossible to slice. We wanted a voluptuously creamy pie, with a well-balanced chocolate flavor somewhere between milkshake and melted candy bar, and a delicious, easy-to-slice crust. After testing every type of cookie on the market, we hit on pulverized Oreos and a bit of melted butter for the tastiest, most tender, sliceable crumb crust. We found that the secret to perfect chocolate cream pie filling was to combine two different types of chocolate for a deeper, more complex flavor. Bittersweet or semisweet chocolate provides the main thrust of flavor and intensely flavored unsweetened chocolate lends depth. One ounce of unsweetened chocolate may not seem like much, but it gives this pie great flavor. We also discovered that the custard’s texture depended upon carefully pouring the egg yolk mixture into simmering half-and-half, then whisking in butter.

SERVES 8

Other brands of chocolate sandwich cookies may be substituted for the Oreos, but avoid any “double-filled” cookies because the proportion of cookie to filling won’t be correct. For more information on making a cookie crust, see
“MAKING A GRAHAM CRACKER OR COOKIE CRUST”
. Do not combine the egg yolks and sugar in advance of making the filling—the sugar will begin to break down the yolks, and the finished cream will be pitted.

CRUST

FILLING

TOPPING

1. FOR THE CRUST:
Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Pulse cookies in food processor until coarsely ground, about 15 pulses, then continue to process to fine, even crumbs, about 15 seconds. Sprinkle melted butter over crumbs and pulse to incorporate, about 5 pulses.

2.
Sprinkle mixture into 9-inch pie plate. Using bottom of measuring cup, press crumbs into even layer on bottom and sides of pie plate. Bake until crust is fragrant and looks set, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer pie plate to wire rack and let crust cool completely.

3. FOR THE FILLING:
Bring half-and-half, 3 tablespoons sugar, and salt to simmer in medium saucepan, stirring occasionally.

4.
As half-and-half mixture begins to simmer, whisk egg yolks, cornstarch, and remaining sugar together in medium bowl until smooth. Slowly whisk 1 cup of simmering half-and-half mixture into yolk mixture to temper, then slowly whisk tempered yolk mixture back into remaining half-and-half mixture. Reduce heat to medium and cook, whisking vigorously, until mixture is thickened and few bubbles burst on surface, about 30 seconds. Off heat, whisk in butter, semisweet chocolate, and unsweetened chocolate until completely smooth and melted, then stir in vanilla.

5.
Pour warm filling into cooled prebaked pie crust. Lay sheet of plastic wrap directly on surface of filling and refrigerate pie until filling is chilled and set, about 4 hours.

6. FOR THE TOPPING:
Once pie is chilled, use stand mixer fitted with whisk to whip cream, sugar, and vanilla on medium-low speed until foamy, about 1 minute. Increase speed to high and whip until soft peaks form, 1 to 3 minutes. Spread whipped cream attractively over top of pie.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS

Most recipes for this diner dessert are nothing more than a redecorated vanilla cream pie. A handful of coconut shreds stirred into the filling or sprinkled on the whipped cream might be enough to give it a new name, but certainly not enough to give it flavor. We wanted a coconut cream pie with the exotic and elusive flavor of tropical coconut rather than a thinly disguised vanilla custard. We found that a not-too-sweet graham cracker crust provided a delicate, cookie-like texture that didn’t overshadow the coconut filling. For the filling, we started with a basic custard, using a combination of unsweetened coconut milk and whole milk. For more coconut flavor, we stirred in unsweetened shredded coconut and cooked it so the shreds softened slightly in the hot milk. Lastly, we topped the pie with rum-spiked whipped cream and dusted it with crunchy shreds of toasted coconut.

SERVES 8

Do not use light coconut milk here because it does not have enough flavor. Also, don’t confuse coconut milk with cream of coconut. The filling should be warm when poured into the cooled pie crust. To toast the coconut, place it in a small skillet over medium heat and cook, stirring often, for 3 to 5 minutes. It burns quite easily, so keep a close eye on it.

FILLING

TOPPING

1. FOR THE FILLING:
Bring coconut milk, whole milk, ¹⁄
₃
cup sugar, shredded coconut, and salt to simmer in medium saucepan, stirring occasionally.

2.
As milk mixture begins to simmer, whisk egg yolks, cornstarch, and remaining ¹⁄
₃
cup sugar together in medium bowl until smooth. Slowly whisk 1 cup of simmering coconut milk mixture into yolk mixture to temper, then slowly whisk tempered yolk mixture back into remaining coconut milk mixture. Reduce heat to medium and cook, whisking vigorously, until mixture is thickened and few bubbles burst on surface, about 30 seconds. Off heat, whisk in butter and vanilla. Let mixture cool until just warm, stirring often, about 5 minutes.

3.
Pour warm filling into cooled prebaked pie crust. Lay sheet of plastic wrap directly on surface of filling and refrigerate pie until filling is chilled and set, about 4 hours.

4. FOR THE TOPPING:
Before serving, using stand mixer fitted with whisk, whip cream, sugar, rum, if using, and vanilla together on medium-low speed until frothy, about 1 minute. Increase speed to high and continue to whip until soft peaks form, 1 to 3 minutes. Spread whipped cream attractively over top of pie and sprinkle with toasted coconut.

Whisk 1¹⁄
₂
teaspoons grated lime zest into filling along with vanilla and butter.

This variation is a test kitchen favorite. Light coconut milk lacks rich coconut flavor, so skip it in favor of regular coconut milk. You may be left with ¹⁄
₃
cup or so of filling that will not fit into the crust because of the caramel and banana.

1.
Add 3 tablespoons water to small saucepan, then pour ¹⁄
₂
cup sugar into center of saucepan. Gently stir sugar with clean spatula to wet thoroughly. Bring to boil and cook until sugar mixture turns dark amber, 5 to 8 minutes, swirling pan occasionally once sugar begins to color. Off heat, add 3 tablespoons heavy cream (caramel will bubble vigorously) and pinch salt; whisk to combine. Whisk in 2 tablespoons unsalted butter. Pour caramel into cooled prebaked pie crust, tilting pie plate to coat evenly; set aside to cool. When caramel is cool, peel 2 slightly underripe bananas and slice crosswise ¹⁄
₄
inch thick. Arrange slices in single layer on top of caramel.

2.
Whisk 2 teaspoons dark rum into filling along with butter and vanilla and pour filling over sliced bananas. Continue with recipe.