The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (365 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
1.
Remove crusts from bread slices and trim slices to fit in single layer in loaf pan (you will need 3 layers). Remove bread from pan.
2.
Line greased loaf pan with plastic wrap. Spread about 2 cups fruit mixture over bottom. Lightly soak 1 layer of bread slices in fruit juices and place on top of fruit. Repeat 2 more times.
3.
Top with remaining fruit juice, cover loosely with second sheet of plastic, and weight with another loaf pan and 2 or 3 heavy cans.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Semifreddo, a classic Italian dessert, is something of a cross between custard and ice cream. We set out to create our ideal version, which features a light coffee-flavored mousse speckled with crushed cookies or nuts. We had little trouble arriving at very good flavor (instant espresso powder was key). But what did give us trouble was the structure of our semifreddo—it either collapsed and lost its volume or stood up too high and airy when we incorporated all of the ingredients. We suspected that the solution to this problem resided in the meringue, which is a crucial component of the dessert. We opted for a cooked, or Italian, meringue, in which a hot sugar syrup is add to the egg whites as they are beaten. Because the syrup cooks the whites, the meringue becomes more stable and, we were pleased to find, better equipped to stand up to the addition of other ingredients, such as crushed biscotti and chopped almonds.
SERVES 8
For the best results, chill the bowl and whisk attachment before whipping the cream. Drizzle slices of semifreddo with Warm Bittersweet Chocolate Sauce (recipe follows), if desired.
1 | cup heavy cream, chilled |
¹⁄ | cup plus 2 tablespoons (4¹⁄ |
¹⁄ | cup water plus 1 tablespoon warm tap water |
2 | tablespoons instant espresso powder |
3 | large egg whites, room temperature |
1 | teaspoon vanilla extract |
¹⁄ | cup crushed almond biscotti or hazelnut biscotti |
1.
Line 8¹⁄
2
by 4¹⁄
2
-inch loaf pan with plastic wrap, leaving 3-inch overhang all around, and place in freezer. Using stand mixer fitted with whisk, whip cream on medium-low speed until foamy, about 1 minute. Increase speed to high and whip until soft peaks form, 1 to 3 minutes. Transfer to bowl and refrigerate.
2.
Bring ¹⁄
2
cup sugar and ¹⁄
4
cup water to boil in small saucepan over medium-high heat and cook until mixture is slightly thickened and syrupy and registers 235 degrees, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm.
3.
Combine remaining 1 tablespoon water and espresso in small bowl and stir to dissolve. Using dry, clean bowl and whisk attachment, whip egg whites on medium-low speed until foamy, about 1 minute. Add 1 teaspoon sugar and increase speed to high; whip until soft peaks form, about 2 minutes. Gradually whip in remaining 5 teaspoons sugar. Reduce speed to medium and slowly add hot sugar syrup, avoiding whisk and sides of bowl. Increase speed to medium-high and continue to whip until mixture has cooled slightly and is very shiny and thick, 2 to 5 minutes. Add espresso mixture and vanilla.
4.
Gently stir one-third of whipped cream into egg white mixture with rubber spatula; fold in remaining whipped cream and 6 tablespoons crushed biscotti. Transfer mixture to prepared pan, spreading evenly with spatula. Fold overhanging plastic over mixture and press gently onto surface; freeze until firm, at least 8 hours.
5.
To unmold, remove plastic from surface and invert loaf pan onto serving platter. Remove plastic and smooth surface with spatula, if desired. Sprinkle with remaining crushed biscotti. Slice and serve immediately.
Omit instant espresso powder and water mixture in step 3. Substitute 6 tablespoons chopped toasted almonds and ¹⁄
3
cup crushed amaretti (6 cookies) for biscotti. Fold crushed amaretti and 4 tablespoons almonds into mixture in step 4. Sprinkle remaining almonds on unmolded semifreddo before serving.
Substitute 1 tablespoon grated orange zest for espresso powder and water mixture and ¹⁄
2
cup crushed chocolate wafer cookies (15 cookies) for biscotti. Fold 6 tablespoons crushed cookies into mixture in step 4; sprinkle remaining crushed cookies on unmolded semifreddo before serving.
Heat 6 ounces chopped bittersweet or semisweet chocolate and ³⁄
4
cup heavy cream in bowl set over 1 inch barely simmering water, stirring occasionally, until chocolate is melted and mixture is combined. Spoon over individual servings of semifreddo.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
With so few ingredients, lemon ice is regularly plagued by harsh and unbalanced flavors. We wanted a lemon ice that struck a perfect sweet-tart balance and hit lots of high notes—without so much as a trace of bitterness. A single cup of sugar gave our lemon ice the ideal amount of sweetness; less sugar gave it a pronounced bitterness, while more sugar made our ice taste like frozen lemonade from concentrate. We opted to use bottled water for the purest flavor and a bit of vodka for a soft, creamy, slightly slushy texture. A pinch of salt boosted the flavor. To achieve an ice with a fluffy, coarse-grained texture and crystalline crunch, we froze the mixture in ice cube trays, then pulsed them in the food processor.
MAKES 1 QUART
We recommend making this recipe with bottled water; tasters preferred lemon ice made with spring or mineral water. The addition of vodka yields the best texture, but it can be omitted if desired.
2¹⁄ | cups water |
1 | cup lemon juice (6 lemons) |
1 | cup (7 ounces) sugar |
2 | tablespoons vodka (optional) |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
1.
Combine ingredients in medium bowl, whisking to dissolve sugar. Pour mixture into 2 ice cube trays and freeze until thoroughly frozen, at least 3 hours or up to 5 days frozen and transferred to zipper-lock bag.
2.
Place medium bowl in freezer. Pulse half of ice cubes in food processer until creamy and no large lumps remain, about 18 pulses; transfer mixture to chilled bowl and freeze while pulsing remaining cubes.
3.
Scoop ice into chilled dishes and serve immediately.
Bring 1 cup water, sugar, and salt to simmer in small saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Off heat, stir in ¹⁄
2
cup fresh mint leaves, roughly torn; let steep for 5 minutes, then strain mixture through fine-mesh strainer into medium bowl. Stir in remaining water, lemon juice, and vodka, let cool to room temperature, about 15 minutes, and freeze as directed.
Frozen margaritas were the inspiration for this variation.
Substitute ¹⁄
2
cup lime juice (4 limes) for ¹⁄
2
cup lemon juice and tequila for vodka.
Bring 1 cup water, sugar, and salt to simmer in small saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Off heat, add 2 jasmine tea bags; let steep for 5 minutes, then squeeze and discard tea bags and transfer mixture to medium bowl. Stir in remaining water, lemon juice, and vodka, let cool to room temperature, about 15 minutes, and freeze as directed.
Bring 1 cup water, sugar, and salt to simmer in small saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Off heat, stir in 2¹⁄
2
teaspoons dried lavender; let steep for 5 minutes, then strain mixture through fine-mesh strainer into medium bowl. Stir in remaining water, lemon juice, and vodka, let cool to room temperature, about 15 minutes, and freeze as directed.
Reduce lemon juice to 2 tablespoons and sugar to ³⁄
4
cup. Add ³⁄
4
cup orange juice (2 oranges) to mixture in step 1.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Granitas, the icy Italian dessert, are simple stuff: a flavorful fruit puree or liquid is combined with sugar and flavorings and then frozen. Traditionally, the liquid is frozen in a bowl and scraped every 30 minutes for several hours to produce a shimmering, granular dessert made up of individual ice crystals. We wanted a modern, timesaving technique that would produce a granita that came as close to the traditional texture as possible. We found a quicker way, using the food processor. We simply poured the flavored liquid into ice cube trays, and when the cubes had hardened we pulsed them into tiny ice shavings. The biggest challenge in making granitas with this method was obtaining the right texture. Pulsing small batches of ice cubes in the food processor ensured an even grinding.