The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (367 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART
Two teaspoons of vanilla extract can be substituted for the vanilla bean; stir the extract into the cold custard in step 3. An instant-read thermometer is critical for the best results. Using a prechilled metal baking pan and working quickly in step 4 will help prevent melting and refreezing of the ice cream and will speed the hardening process. If using a canister-style ice-cream machine, be sure to freeze the empty canister at least 24 hours and preferably 48 hours before churning. For self-refrigerating ice-cream machines, prechill the canister by running the machine for 5 to 10 minutes before pouring in the custard.
1 | vanilla bean |
1³⁄ | cups heavy cream |
1¹⁄ | cups whole milk |
¹⁄ | cup plus 2 tablespoons (4¹⁄ |
¹⁄ | cup light corn syrup |
¹⁄ | teaspoon salt |
6 | large egg yolks |
1.
Place 8- or 9-inch square metal baking pan in freezer. Cut vanilla bean in half lengthwise. Using tip of paring knife, scrape out vanilla seeds. Combine vanilla bean, seeds, cream, milk, 6 tablespoons sugar, corn syrup, and salt in medium saucepan. Heat over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until mixture is steaming steadily and registers 175 degrees, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove saucepan from heat.
2.
While cream mixture heats, whisk egg yolks and remaining ¹⁄
4
cup sugar in bowl until smooth, about 30 seconds. Slowly whisk 1 cup heated cream mixture into egg yolk mixture. Return mixture to saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens and registers 180 degrees, 7 to 14 minutes. Immediately pour custard into large bowl and let cool until no longer steaming, 10 to 20 minutes. Transfer 1 cup custard to small bowl. Cover both bowls with plastic wrap. Place large bowl in refrigerator and small bowl in freezer and let cool completely, at least 4 hours or up to 24 hours. (Small bowl of custard will freeze solid.)
3.
Remove custards from refrigerator and freezer. Scrape frozen custard from small bowl into large bowl of custard. Stir occasionally until frozen custard has fully dissolved. Strain custard through fine-mesh strainer and transfer to ice-cream machine. Churn until mixture resembles thick soft-serve ice cream and registers about 21 degrees, 15 to 25 minutes. Transfer ice cream to frozen baking pan and press plastic wrap on surface. Return to freezer until firm around edges, about 1 hour.
4.
Transfer ice cream to airtight container, press firmly to remove any air pockets, and freeze until firm, at least 2 hours. (Ice cream can be frozen for up to 5 days.)
Freeze the crystallized ginger for at least 15 minutes before adding it to the churning ice cream.
Omit vanilla bean. Add one 3-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced into thin rounds, and 2 teaspoons ground ginger to cream and milk mixture in step 1 and heat as directed. Add ¹⁄
2
cup chopped crystallized ginger to ice cream during last minute of churning.
Look for chocolate-covered cocoa nibs (roasted pieces of the cocoa bean) in chocolate shops or well-stocked supermarkets. Freeze the cocoa nibs for at least 15 minutes before adding them to the churning ice cream.
Omit vanilla bean. Add ¹⁄
2
cup coarsely ground coffee to cream and milk mixture in step 1 and heat as directed. Add ³⁄
4
cup chocolate-covered cocoa nibs to ice cream during last minute of churning.
ADDING MIX-INS TO HOMEMADE ICE CREAM
While developing our recipe for Vanilla Ice Cream, we uncovered a few ground rules for adding mix-ins. These guidelines apply to any homemade ice cream.
FREEZE
FIRST:
To keep mix-ins from raising the ice cream’s
temperature, freeze them for at least 15 minutes before adding them to
the ice-cream maker.
STRAIN:
Shake chopped ingredients like chocolate and nuts in a mesh strainer to
remove small particles that can detract from the ice cream’s smooth
consistency.
ADD JUST
ENOUGH:
Add no more than
³⁄
4
cup of coarsely chopped
(¹⁄
4
- to
¹⁄
2
-inch) mix-ins per quart of ice cream to
provide textural contrast without dominating the ice cream. Scale down to
¹⁄
2
cup when using potent ingredients
such as crystallized ginger or crushed peppermint candies.
WAIT UNTIL LAST
MINUTE:
Add mix-ins during the final minute of churning
to ensure even distribution without interrupting the freezing process.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
Chocolate ice cream often ends up either too heavy on the dairy, which obscures the chocolate flavor, or too heavy on the chocolate, which dulls the creamy richness, resulting in an overly heavy dessert. We wanted a balanced homemade chocolate ice cream—rich in both flavor and texture. For the lushest texture, we started with a custard base. Although five or six egg yolks delivered an excellent texture, we found that the egg flavor became too pronounced. Four egg yolks gave the ice cream the appropriate silkiness. For the dairy, we found an equal amount of heavy cream and whole milk struck the right balance between creamy texture and richness. Finally, for the starring ingredient, high-quality bittersweet chocolate provided all the deep, nuanced chocolate flavor that we clamored for.
MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART
This ice cream should be made high-quality bittersweet chocolate; we like Callebaut Intense Dark Chocolate and Ghirardelli Bittersweet Chocolate. An instant-read thermometer is critical for the best results. Using a prechilled metal baking pan and working quickly in step 6 will help prevent melting and refreezing of the ice cream and will speed the hardening process. If using a canister-style ice-cream machine, be sure to freeze the empty canister at least 24 hours and preferably 48 hours before churning. For self-refrigerating ice-cream machines, prechill the canister by running the machine for 5 to 10 minutes before pouring in the custard.
8 | ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped coarse |
1¹⁄ | cups whole milk |
1¹⁄ | cups heavy cream |
³⁄ | cup (5¹⁄ |
4 | large egg yolks |
1 | teaspoon vanilla extract |
1.
Place 8- or 9-inch square metal baking pan in freezer. Microwave chocolate in bowl at 50 percent power, stirring occasionally, until melted, 2 to 4 minutes. Set aside to cool.
2.
Meanwhile, place fine-mesh strainer over medium bowl and set over larger bowl of ice water. Combine milk, cream, and ¹⁄
2
cup sugar in medium saucepan. Heat over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until mixture is steaming steadily and registers 175 degrees, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove saucepan from heat.
3.
While cream mixture heats, whisk egg yolks and remaining ¹⁄
4
cup sugar in bowl until smooth, about 30 seconds. Add melted chocolate and whisk until fully incorporated.
4.
Slowly whisk half of heated cream mixture into egg yolk mixture, ¹⁄
2
cup at a time. Return mixture to saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens and registers 180 degrees, 7 to 14 minutes. Immediately strain custard through fine-mesh strainer and let cool over bowl of ice water to room temperature, stirring occasionally. Stir in vanilla, then cover and refrigerate until custard registers 40 degrees, at least 3 hours or up to 24 hours.
5.
Transfer custard to ice-cream machine and churn until mixture resembles thick soft-serve ice cream, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer ice cream to frozen baking pan and press plastic wrap on surface. Return to freezer until firm around edges, about 1 hour.
6.
Transfer ice cream to airtight container, press firmly to remove any air pockets, and freeze until firm, at least 2 hours. (Ice cream can be frozen for up to 2 days.)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
When made with ripe, in-season fruit and a rich custard base, homemade peach ice cream delivers an ultra-fresh, creamy-smooth sensation that commercial brands can’t match. But working with peaches can be a challenge because the moisture in peaches can turn into ice during freezing, producing an ice cream studded with fruit chunks that are as hard as marbles. We set out to make a rich, creamy ice cream with vibrant peach flavor and tender bites of fruit. We found that the right amount of sugar was key; it not only helped to sweeten the custard but also lowered the freezing point, which made for a softer, smoother, and less icy ice cream. To maximize the fresh fruit flavor, we opted to limit the time our peaches spent heating. We did this by mixing the peaches together with the sugar and letting them stand until they were partially softened and had exuded some of their juices. Just a few minutes over medium-high heat softened our peaches further until they were perfectly tender. We then strained the peaches, adding their liquid to the custard base at the start of churning, and then added the peaches in toward the end of churning. The result? Creamy, intensely flavored peach ice cream with soft, not icy, bites of fruit throughout. We found this method worked equally well with strawberries.
MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART
Both the cooked peaches and the custard mixture must be cooled to 40 degrees before you churn them. An instant-read thermometer is critical for the best results. You’ll get the very best results from using in-season, fully ripened peaches, but in a pinch, you can substitute 2 cups frozen sliced peaches and replace the vodka with peach-flavored liqueur. If your peaches are firm, you should be able to peel them with a sharp vegetable peeler. If they are too soft to withstand the pressure of a peeler, you’ll need to blanch them in a pot of simmering water for 15 seconds and then shock them in a bowl of ice water before peeling. Though the frozen ice cream will keep in the freezer for up to 2 days, its flavor and texture are best when it is eaten the day it is made.
1 | pound peaches, peeled, halved, pitted, and cut into ¹⁄ |
1 | cup plus 6 tablespoons (9²⁄ |
¹⁄ | teaspoon lemon juice |
Pinch salt | |
1¹⁄ | cups heavy cream |
1¹⁄ | cups whole milk |
6 | large egg yolks |
1 | teaspoon vanilla extract |
2 | tablespoons vodka |
1.
Combine peaches, ¹⁄
2
cup sugar, lemon juice, and salt in bowl; let stand until pool of syrupy liquid accumulates and peaches soften slightly, 1 to 1¹⁄
2
hours.
2.
Place fine-mesh strainer over medium bowl and set over larger bowl of ice water. Combine cream, milk, and ¹⁄
2
cup sugar in medium saucepan. Heat over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until mixture is steaming steadily and registers 175 degrees, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove saucepan from heat.
3.
While cream mixture heats, whisk egg yolks and remaining 6 tablespoons sugar in bowl until smooth, about 30 seconds. Slowly whisk half of heated cream mixture into egg yolk mixture, ¹⁄
2
cup at a time. Return mixture to saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens and registers 180 degrees, 7 to 14 minutes. Immediately strain custard through fine-mesh strainer and let cool over bowl of ice water to room temperature, stirring occasionally. Stir in vanilla, then cover and refrigerate until custard registers 40 degrees, at least 3 hours or up to 24 hours.
4.
Meanwhile, transfer peaches and their liquid to medium saucepan and heat, stirring occasionally, over medium-high heat until tender and flesh has broken down, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to bowl, stir in vodka, and refrigerate until chilled, at least 4 hours or up to 24 hours.
5.
Strain chilled peaches through fine-mesh strainer, reserving liquid. Stir reserved peach liquid into chilled custard; transfer custard to ice-cream machine and churn until mixture resembles soft-serve ice cream, 25 to 30 minutes. Add peaches; continue to churn until combined, about 30 seconds. Transfer ice cream to airtight container, press firmly to remove any air pockets, and freeze until firm, at least 2 hours.
Increase peaches to 1¹⁄
2
pounds and reduce sugar to 1 cup. Increase milk to 1¹⁄
2
cups and reduce heavy cream to ¹⁄
4
cup, egg yolks to 4, and vodka to 1¹⁄
2
tablespoons. For each sugar addition, use ¹⁄
3
cup.