The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook (37 page)
Read The Cook's Illustrated Cookbook Online
Authors: The Editors at America's Test Kitchen
Tags: #Cooking
CHOPPING ONIONS WITHOUT TEARS
We can’t tell you how many onions we’ve chopped over the years in the test kitchen. Let’s just say a lot. Streams of flowing tears caused us to wonder why cut onions are so pesky? It turns out that when an onion is cut, the cells that are damaged in the process release sulfuric compounds as well as various enzymes, notably one called sulfoxide lyase. Those compounds and enzymes, which are separated when the onion’s cell structure is intact, activate and mix to form the real culprit behind crying, a volatile new compound called thiopropanal sulfoxide. When thiopropanal sulfoxide evaporates in the air, it irritates the eyes, causing redness and tears.
Over time, we’ve collected dozens of ideas from readers, books, and conversations with colleagues for combating tears while cutting onions. We finally decided to put those ideas to the test. They ranged from common sense (work underneath an exhaust fan or freeze onions for 30 minutes before slicing) to comical (wear ski goggles or hold a toothpick in your teeth). Overall, the methods that worked best were to protect our eyes by covering them with goggles or contact lenses or to introduce a flame near the cut onions. The flame, which can be produced by either a candle or a gas burner, changes the activity of the thiopropanal sulfoxide (the volatile compound that causes tearing) by completing its oxidization. Contact lenses and goggles form a physical barrier that the vapors cannot penetrate. So if you want to keep tears at bay when handling onions, light a candle or gas burner—or put on some ski goggles, even if it does look a bit silly.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
We wanted a recipe that didn’t depend on a bounty of fresh, in-season tomatoes. We got the most robust tomato flavor by caramelizing whole canned tomatoes; sprinkling the tomatoes with brown sugar before roasting them helped induce caramelization. Blending the liquid and tomatoes lightened the color of our soup by aerating it, but blending just the solids maintained its deep red hue. This soup was also quick to make; because the rest of the soup could be prepared while the tomatoes roasted, we were able to keep stovetop time to 20 minutes.
SERVES 4
Make sure to use canned whole tomatoes that are not packed in puree; you will need some of the juice to make the soup.
2 | (28-ounce) cans whole tomatoes, drained, tomatoes seeded, and 3 cups juice reserved |
1¹⁄ | tablespoons dark brown sugar |
4 | tablespoons unsalted butter |
4 | large shallots, minced |
1 | tablespoon tomato paste |
Pinch ground allspice | |
2 | tablespoons all-purpose flour |
1³⁄ | cups low-sodium chicken broth |
¹⁄ | cup heavy cream |
2 | tablespoons brandy or dry sherry |
Salt | |
Cayenne pepper |
1.
Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Spread tomatoes in single layer over aluminum foil–lined rimmed
baking sheet and sprinkle evenly with brown sugar. Bake until all liquid has evaporated and tomatoes begin to color, about 30 minutes. Let tomatoes cool slightly, then peel them off foil and transfer to small bowl.
2.
Melt butter in medium saucepan over medium heat. Add shallots, tomato paste, and allspice. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until shallots are softened, 7 to 10 minutes. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly, until thoroughly combined, about 30 seconds. Whisking constantly, gradually add chicken broth. Stir in reserved tomato juice and roasted tomatoes. Cover, increase heat to medium, and bring to boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, to blend flavors, about 10 minutes.
3.
Strain mixture into medium bowl and rinse out saucepan. Transfer tomatoes and solids in strainer to blender. Add 1 cup strained liquid to blender and puree until smooth. Add remaining strained liquid.
4.
Return the pureed mixture to the saucepan, stir in cream, and heat over low heat until hot, about 3 minutes. Off heat, stir in brandy. Season with salt and cayenne to taste. Serve immediately.
MAKE-AHEAD:
Soup can be prepared through step 3 and refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 2 months. Reheat over low heat before proceeding with step 3.
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
We wanted a creamy tomato soup recipe that would have velvety smoothness and a bright tomato taste—without added cream. We started with canned tomatoes for their convenience, year-round availability, and consistent quality. For sautéing onion and garlic, we found that butter muted the tomato flavor so we opted for olive oil. A little brown sugar toned down acidity, and a surprise ingredient—slices of white bread torn into pieces—helped give our tomato soup recipe body without added cream.
SERVES 6 TO 8
Make sure to purchase canned whole tomatoes in juice, not puree. If half of the soup fills your blender by more than two-thirds, process the soup in three batches. You can also use an immersion blender to process the soup directly in the pot. For an even smoother soup, pass the pureed mixture through a fine-mesh strainer before stirring in the chicken broth in step 2.
¹⁄ | cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling |
1 | onion, chopped |
3 | garlic cloves, minced |
Pinch red pepper flakes (optional) | |
1 | bay leaf |
2 | (28-ounce) cans whole tomatoes |
3 | slices hearty white sandwich bread, crusts removed, torn into 1-inch pieces |
1 | tablespoon brown sugar |
2 | cups low-sodium chicken broth |
2 | tablespoons brandy (optional) |
Salt and pepper | |
¹⁄ | cup chopped fresh chives |
1 | recipe |
1.
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add onion, garlic, pepper flakes, if using, and bay leaf. Cook, stirring frequently, until onion is translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in tomatoes and their juice. Using potato masher, mash until no pieces bigger than 2 inches remain. Stir in bread and sugar. Bring soup to boil. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until bread is completely saturated and starts to break down, about 5 minutes. Remove and discard bay leaf.
2.
Transfer half of soup to blender. Add 1 tablespoon oil and process until soup is smooth and creamy, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to large bowl and repeat with remaining soup and oil. Rinse out Dutch oven and return soup to pot. Stir in chicken broth and brandy, if using. Return soup to boil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Ladle soup into bowls, sprinkle with chives, and drizzle with olive oil. Serve.
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
Either fresh or stale bread can be used in this recipe, although stale bread is easier to cut and crisps more quickly in the oven. If using stale bread, reduce the baking time by about 2 minutes. Croutons made from stale bread will be more crisp than those made from fresh. Be sure to use regular or thick-sliced bread (do not use thin-sliced bread).
6 | slices hearty white sandwich bread, crusts removed, cut into ¹⁄ |
Salt and pepper | |
3 | tablespoons unsalted butter |
1.
Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Combine bread cubes and salt and pepper to taste in medium bowl. Drizzle with butter and toss well with rubber spatula to combine.
2.
Spread bread cubes in single layer on rimmed baking sheet or in shallow baking dish. Bake croutons until golden brown and crisp, 8 to 10 minutes, stirring halfway through baking time. Let cool on baking sheet to room temperature. (Croutons can be stored in airtight container for up to 3 days.)
WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS
For gazpacho with clearly flavored, distinct vegetables in a bright tomato broth, we started by chopping the vegetables by hand, which ensured they retained their color and firm texture. Tossing them in a sherry vinegar marinade and letting them sit briefly guaranteed well-seasoned vegetables, while a combination of tomato juice and ice cubes (which helped chill the soup) provided the right amount of liquid.
Chilling our soup for a minimum of 4 hours proved critical to allowing the flavors to develop and meld.
SERVES 8 TO 10
Use a Vidalia, Maui, or Walla Walla onion here. This recipe makes a large quantity because the leftovers are so good, but it can be halved if you prefer. Traditionally, diners garnish their gazpacho with more of the same diced vegetables that are in the soup, so cut some extra vegetables when you prepare those called for in the recipe.
In addition to the
GARLIC CROUTONS
, chopped pitted black olives, chopped hard-cooked eggs, and finely diced avocados all make appealing garnishes. For a finishing touch, serve in chilled bowls.
1¹⁄ | pounds tomatoes, cored and cut into ¹⁄ |
2 | red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ¹⁄ |
2 | small cucumbers, one cucumber peeled, both sliced lengthwise, seeded, and cut into ¹⁄ |
¹⁄ | small sweet onion or 2 large shallots, minced (about ¹⁄ |
¹⁄ | cup sherry vinegar |
2 | garlic cloves, minced |
Salt and pepper | |
5 | cups tomato juice |
1 | teaspoon hot sauce (optional) |
8 | ice cubes |
8–10 | teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, for serving |
1 | recipe |
1.
Combine tomatoes, bell peppers, cucumbers, onion, vinegar, garlic, and 2 teaspoons salt in large (at least 4-quart) bowl and season with pepper to taste. Let stand until vegetables just begin to release their juices, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato juice, hot sauce, if using, and ice cubes. Cover tightly and refrigerate to blend flavors, at least 4 hours or up to 2 days.
2.
Remove and discard unmelted ice cubes and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve cold, drizzling each portion with 1 teaspoon oil and topping with desired garnishes.
Core and quarter tomatoes and process in food processor until broken down into ¹⁄
4
- to ³⁄
4
-inch pieces, about 12 pulses, then transfer to large bowl. Cut stemmed and seeded peppers and seeded cucumbers into rough 1-inch pieces and process separately until broken down into ¹⁄
4
- to ³⁄
4
-inch pieces, about 12 pulses, and add to bowl with tomatoes. Mince onion and garlic by hand, then add to bowl with vegetables along with vinegar, salt, and pepper to taste; continue with recipe.
Omit hot sauce and stir in 2¹⁄
2
tablespoons minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce, ¹⁄
4
cup minced fresh cilantro, 6 tablespoons juice from 3 limes, and 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest with tomato juice and ice cubes in step 1.