The Flight of the Iguana (18 page)

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Authors: David Quammen

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And Washoe is still with Roger Fouts, now at a different research facility in a different state. Together they are still exploring (in a style of interaction that is less formalized than science generally prefers) the question of what humans and chimpanzees might be able to teach each other about thinking and talking and learning. Meanwhile they seem to have discovered something far more precious, and far more communicative, than language.

ICEBREAKER

A Brief Rapprochement Between Whales and Russians

News dispatches arriving from the Soviet Far East in a recent year revealed surprising new evidence of intelligent life at sea. The evidence was musical. The surprise belonged to a group of whales. The intelligence belonged to a group of Soviet mariners.

On February 6, 1985, the government newspaper
Izvestia
reported that a Soviet icebreaker, the
Moskva,
had been diverted from its usual duty, keeping shipping lanes open in the Bering Sea, and was presently on its way to attempt the rescue of a thousand desperate whales. These whales were penned into a small area of open water within Senyavina Strait, just southwest of the Bering Strait, where they had gotten trapped by shifting ice floes while feeding on a shoal of fish. They were part of a great herd of migrating beluga,
Delphinapterus leucas,
the only species among all cetaceans that is a pure snowy white. The largest of the males were twenty feet long and weighed a ton and a half; the females were slightly smaller. They couldn't escape by going under the ice, they couldn't get around it, and as the open area shrank further they were doomed to begin dying of starvation or suffocation. The water of Senyavina was “boiling,” according to
Izvestia,
with their frantic efforts to thrash a way out. The whales' only hope seemed to be that Soviet icebreaker.

But it was an improbable hope, since the Soviets are notorious in certain quarters for their unregenerate slaughter of whales.

The U.S.S.R. is a member of the International Whaling Commission, but Soviet whaling fleets often refuse to abide by the IWC's rulings. Already that year they had flouted the kill quota for minke whales (a small species of baleen whale that became commercially attractive only when most of the larger baleens had been killed off) with their factory-ship operations near Antarctica, and had announced their intent to exceed the quota by a full thousand minkes before they stopped killing.

But those thousand belugas, in contrast, were for some reason more precious alive. This was no impulsive act of sentiment by one whale-loving sea captain; clearly a decision had been made in Moscow. Before it was all over, the icebreaker's time alone had cost $80,000, a sum that no Soviet bureaucrat would allot to seemingly quixotic purposes without confidence that those purposes had the blessing of Moscow. And whoever in Moscow made that decision, for whatever motives, that person had undeniably been visited with a moment of transcendent good sense. Maybe it was a public relations stunt. Maybe there had come a sudden new Soviet recognition of kinship with the cetaceans. But whether you take the most cynical view, or the least cynical, that $80,000 was money well spent.

The
Moskva
arrived, threw itself at the ice blockage, couldn't break through. The ice was twelve feet thick in some places, and the blockage was twelve miles across. The ship was forced to withdraw for refueling. By the time it could return, the whales had been trapped for almost a month, though there was no sign yet that they had begun dying off. The icebreaker tried again. Meanwhile, workers from the mainland were keeping that penned area clear of new ice and dropping loads of fish to the whales, in the hope of bolstering their strength—possibly also their morale. Nevertheless, about forty belugas did die, with more destined to follow soon. Then the
Moskva
broke through. It
had cut a channel twelve miles long and seventy yards wide, from the open sea to the whales. Now all the whales had to do was follow the
Moskva
back out.

But they wouldn't. They wouldn't go. No doubt they were still distressed and addled from the entrapment, but they also had good grounds for a more deep-seated confusion. Experience had not prepared these animals to expect kindness from humans, in ships of Soviet registry or any other. As a species they had been butchered by virtually every tribe of mankind that sails and hunts Arctic waters—Eskimos, Greenlanders, Norwegians, Russians, and every sort of Siberian. They had been driven up onto beaches, stabbed and shot to death, strangled and drowned in gillnets and sweep nets and seines. These thousand survivors had no reason
not
to be terrified. All whales are smart, of course, but belugas are among the smartest and most wary, so they may well have wondered:
Is this another murderous trap?
They wouldn't follow the ship. Not until someone on board thought of music.

“Several melodies were tried out,” said a Soviet press account, “and it turned out that classical music was to the taste of these Arctic belugas.” So with classical music pouring from loudspeakers on board the
Moskva,
a thousand white whales swam behind the ship, trailing it trustingly down that channel to freedom.

Who says there's no cheerful news in the papers? Even Greenpeace sent a telegram of congratulations. And I began poking into it, in a modest way, with my own small list of unanswered questions.

•   •   •

Of course the most obvious was:
Which
classical music? The Moscow press sources gave no specifics, didn't name a particular piece or even a composer, and to me that seemed a tantalizing oversight. Who did those belugas like? What composition was it that so moved them? What was it that sang to them so clearly, so reassuringly, in tones of benevolent fellowhood? Was it some wild romantic sonata by Rachmaninoff? Was it “The Great Gate of
Kiev”? Was it Tchaikovsky? Stravinsky? Prokofiev? Or maybe, despite understandable chauvinist pride, was it something by a non-Russian? Possibly Pachelbel's weatherproof “Canon in D,” for a parade of one thousand happy whales? Or Wagner's “Ride of the Valkyries”? Not likely that, no; not for such amiable creatures. Or maybe the choral movement from Beethoven's Ninth? The last of these was my own preferred candidate: I loved the image of that symphonic ode to joy booming out over the Bering Sea while a thousand belugas each came through the channel, spouted once to the ship in thanks, and then arched and dived, disappearing.

So I dialed the Soviet Embassy in Washington to ask. But the Russians weren't answering their phone. Again and again, all afternoon: no answer. It was strange. Nobody seemed to be home.

The second thing I wondered about was the character of the belugas themselves. What sort of a species were they? How did it happen that a thousand of them should become trapped in a single small inlet? And what did science have to say about their auditory sophistication? I knew that humpback whales are famous for those wonderful mating songs that stretch on for as long as a half hour, complex and melodious, and then are repeated with boggling exactitude as though the humpbacks were sight-reading off a printed score. But I had never heard any claims made for the special phonic capabilities of the beluga.

Only because I was very ignorant. It turns out that those capabilities are legendary. The beluga is not just the noisiest of all whales; it also produces the largest variety of noises, some of which are more musical (to a human ear) than others. One scientific source reports that the various sounds in the beluga repertoire resemble bird calls, dull groans, the bellow of a bull, the grunt of a pig, the scream of a woman, teeth being gritted, a boat motor at low idle, and “the sound of a flute, modulating warble and whistling.” This source also mentions chirping, clicking, and
gurgling. Another expert describes “a well-modulated bell tone which is unique amongst cetaceans.” Still another speaks of “barks, squawks, jaw claps, whistles, squawls, buzzes, whinnys, and chirps.” Two scientists who tracked belugas off the coast of Quebec heard “high-pitched resonant whistles and squeals, varied with ticking and clucking sounds, slightly reminiscent of a string orchestra tuning up.” No wonder, then, that early whalers gave this species the nickname “sea canary.”

But what is the biological explanation for all this vocal versatility? Or
is
there an explanation that is merely biological?

Though marine mammal researchers have scarcely begun to decode the beluga's vocabulary, they are confident about one thing: At least some of those sounds serve a navigational function. Hearing is the dominant sense among whales, far more important than sight or smell, for the very good reason that sound travels much better through water than do either light or chemical signals. And the toothed (as opposed to the baleen) whales, including the beluga, seem to rely heavily on echolocation. They use the echoes of their own clicks and chirps, just as a bat does, to spot food and guide themselves as they move. For the beluga species, in particular, those more elaborate bellows and grunts and whistles may be forms of communication, useful in mating, herd forming, and other types of social behavior. The simpler high-frequency sounds probably function as sonar, allowing the animal (even in dark or murky seas) to maneuver among obstacles. And again for the beluga, because of its Arctic habitat, the most familiar and most threatening obstacle is ice.

Belugas live much of their lives near the sea ice of the extreme north, and in the gaps and natural channels that stay open in that ice during the transitional seasons. They even go under the ice when there is reason, hunting or hiding—though after fifteen or twenty minutes a beluga, just like a seal, needs to surface through open water for a gasp of air. Occasionally individuals are caught beneath solid ice sheets and drown. But a beluga has one advantage
that a seal does not: Carrying a ton or more of heft, with a hard area on the back of its head covered with tough skin but no cushion of fat, the beluga can bash its way up through a four-inch thickness of ice. Its complete lack of a dorsal fin, a contrast with most other cetaceans, also helps make this ice-breaking trick possible. Elsewhere on its body the beluga is padded with blubber, enough to keep it comfortable in the coldest waters, where it feeds well on crustaceans, salmon, Arctic cod, and other small fish. With these adaptations,
Delphinapterus leucas
is well suited to life in the northern ocean.

Its chief enemies are killer whales and humans, not necessarily in that order. For the beluga, hunting and hiding amid the kaleidoscope of shifting ice evidently has been—notwithstanding the incident at Senyavina—the lesser of alternative dangers.

•   •   •

The third on my list of unanswered questions was: Why had the Soviets performed this act of mercy?

Why send a ship to rescue belugas while leaving other Soviet ships to proceed with the slaughter of minkes? Why not be consistent, one way or the other? If the Soviets had just wanted to buff up their international image, they could have announced a decision to abide by the IWC quota—or, better still, a decision to join the complete worldwide moratorium on commercial whaling, scheduled to begin the following year, which the Soviets (as well as the Japanese and the Norwegians) had so far vowed to ignore. Either of those steps would have cost their economy more than $80,000, true enough, but not really so very much more. On the other hand, if the Soviets felt such exigence about “harvesting” whales in Antarctica, why didn't they just “harvest” those thousand trapped belugas? Nothing could have been easier than going into Senyavina with guns and tail grapples and flensing knives instead of with food and music. It wasn't simply the difference in species, because there existed a hearty tradition among Soviet coastal peoples (at least until the mid-1960s) of hunting
the beluga. Its meat was processed into sausage and animal fodder and fertilizer; its skin was prized for boot leather; its oil went into soap, unguents, margarine. With that sort of market standing ready, a dead beluga could be a valuable commodity.

What had changed? Why were a thousand belugas suddenly more precious alive?

•   •   •

I was still dialing that Soviet Embassy number, and they were still declining to pick up the phone. I checked back with directory assistance and tried again. No answer, no answer. At this point I began imagining things. Maybe it's Lenin's birthday and they're all drunk. Maybe we've broken diplomatic relations, one of those gut-twisting international incidents, and the whole delegation has packed and left, headed back for an underground bunker in Moscow. Maybe the embassy was blown up by a crazed Azerbaijanian separatist.

I called the Tass office in New York and finally got a human voice. Hi, I'm a journalist, just wanted to ask someone a few questions about . . . But I was too slow. The man sounded somber and nervous. He couldn't help. He hung up.

Next, the Soviet Consulate in San Francisco, and the fellow I caught there clearly thought I was either perverse or out of my mind, quacking at him about a bunch of ice-bound whales.

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