The Small House Book (9 page)

5) Put up temporary, diago-

nal braces to steady the

project while you work. Then

install the collar beams (ceil-

ing joists). The framing over

the wheel wells is supported

by horizontal headers which

are, in turn, supported by the

wheel wells.

6) Screw and glue CDX plywood

to the exterior surface, and cut

openings for the windows and

door(s) with your skill saw.

72

7) Frame the roof and gables.

Be sure to fasten the rafters to

the walls with metal hurricane

clips so that the entire roof does

not blow off onto the highway.

8) Staple house-wrap to the walls. Go

ahead and cut holes in the wrap if you

anticipate dry weather or if your windows

and door(s) are available for installation.

73

9) Waterproof the roof with

tar paper or some equivalent.

Then, run some 1/4” lath up

the sides of the house. Place

each over a stud. The chan-

nels between the strips will

serve as air spaces to vent be-

neath the siding. This would

also be a good time to trim the

corners and openings and to

put facia boards up around the

eaves and rakes.

74

10) Use metal roofing if you

plan on moving the house

much. Asphalt shingles and

most other materials are far

more prone to blowing off.

When the roof is done, you

can put up your siding. Drive

screws through it into the

lath, and studs below. Caulk

the seams where boards

meet the wheel wells.

11) Fill the wall cavities with your

insulation of choice, and frame

the interior walls. Then, run the

wires and pipes for your plumb-

ing and electrical systems. I like

to hire professionals to do most

of the utilities, as these require

a whole new skill set. If your in-

sulation is water-permeable, this

would be the time to hang some

sort of vapor barrier to protect

it from potential condensation

problems.

75