This Can't Be Tofu! (20 page)
Read This Can't Be Tofu! Online
Authors: Deborah Madison
Chilled Soba with Soft Tofu and Soy-Sesame Sauce
MAKES 4 APPETIZERS OR 2 TO 3 MAIN-DISH SERVINGS
An ideal dish for a hot day, these noodles and tofu are cool, light and refreshing and couldn’t be easier to make
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The sauce can be used as a dipping sauce for tofu (cooked or raw) without the noodles. Plus you can vary it by adding a tablespoon of peanut butter or tahini. Or, for a sauce that’s a little more substantial, add
½
teaspoon chili oil to make it a little spicy
.
½
teaspoon chili oil to make it a little spicy
.
I especially like the silken tofu that is not aseptically packaged, such as that made by Azumaya
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.
1 package soba noodles (about 8 ounces)
1 bunch slender scallions, including a few inches of the greens
1½ tablespoons white or black sesame seeds
1 carton fresh silken or soft tofu or 2 boxes firm-silken tofu
The Sauce
6 tablespoons soy sauce, such as Kikkoman or thin Chinese soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1½ teaspoons dark sesame oil
1 teaspoon sugar, or more to taste
1 tablespoon finely minced ginger
1.
Cook the noodles in boiling water until tender but still retain a texture, about 6 to 8 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water to stop the cooking and cool. Shake off the excess water. (If you’re cooking the noodles ahead of time, refrigerate them.) Trim the scallions and slice them very thinly. Toast the sesame seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, then transfer to a dish and set aside. Carefully open the tofu and turn it onto a cutting board to drain while you make the sauce.
Cook the noodles in boiling water until tender but still retain a texture, about 6 to 8 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water to stop the cooking and cool. Shake off the excess water. (If you’re cooking the noodles ahead of time, refrigerate them.) Trim the scallions and slice them very thinly. Toast the sesame seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until fragrant, then transfer to a dish and set aside. Carefully open the tofu and turn it onto a cutting board to drain while you make the sauce.
2.
Combine the ingredients for the sauce in a bowl. Taste to make sure the balance of oil to vinegar is the way you like it. It may seem salty, but remember that it’s going on tofu.
Combine the ingredients for the sauce in a bowl. Taste to make sure the balance of oil to vinegar is the way you like it. It may seem salty, but remember that it’s going on tofu.
3.
Toss the noodles with half the scallions and sesame seeds, then divide among 4 plates. Make a little depression in the center of the noodles. Dice the tofu into ½-inch cubes and set them in the center. Spoon the sauce over the tofu and the noodles, then sprinkle with the remaining scallions and sesame seeds. Serve.
Sautéed Mushrooms and Tofu with Tamarind SauceToss the noodles with half the scallions and sesame seeds, then divide among 4 plates. Make a little depression in the center of the noodles. Dice the tofu into ½-inch cubes and set them in the center. Spoon the sauce over the tofu and the noodles, then sprinkle with the remaining scallions and sesame seeds. Serve.
SERVES 3 TO 4
Tamarind gives this sauce a pleasing sourish edge. Equally good over lo mein noodles or fettuccine; be sure to start the pasta water first, so that the pasta will be cooked about the time the dish is done. If the finished dish sits, the mushrooms and tofu will soak up the juices. It’s much better if they can mix with the noodles
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1 carton firm tofu, drained
1 tablespoon tamarind paste diluted in 1 cup warm water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons peanut or canola oil
8 ounces shiitake mushrooms or brown Italian mushrooms, stems removed, caps halved or quartered if large
1 small white onion, diced
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 tablespoon mushroom soy or tamari
1 jalapeño chile, seeded and finely diced
2 Roma tomatoes, seeded and neatly diced
8 ounces lo mein noodles or fettuccine
Chopped parsley
1.
Cut the tofu crosswise into slices 1-inch wide and set on cloth or paper toweling while you assemble the rest of the ingredients. Bring water for the pasta to a boil. Returning to the tofu, blot it once more, then cut into 1-inch cubes. Sprinkle them with salt, plenty of pepper, and the sugar. Dilute the tamarind paste in the water by first mashing it into just a few tablespoons water, then gradually adding the remainder. Start cooking the pasta.
Cut the tofu crosswise into slices 1-inch wide and set on cloth or paper toweling while you assemble the rest of the ingredients. Bring water for the pasta to a boil. Returning to the tofu, blot it once more, then cut into 1-inch cubes. Sprinkle them with salt, plenty of pepper, and the sugar. Dilute the tamarind paste in the water by first mashing it into just a few tablespoons water, then gradually adding the remainder. Start cooking the pasta.
2.
Heat a wide skillet over a high flame. Add half the oil, and when it’s hot, add the tofu. Let it rest in the pan for at least a minute, then carefully turn. Brown all the sides. In all this will take 8 to 10 minutes. With the sugar, it should turn a rich golden brown. When done, remove it to a plate.
Heat a wide skillet over a high flame. Add half the oil, and when it’s hot, add the tofu. Let it rest in the pan for at least a minute, then carefully turn. Brown all the sides. In all this will take 8 to 10 minutes. With the sugar, it should turn a rich golden brown. When done, remove it to a plate.
3.
Return the pan to the heat, add the remaining oil, then when hot, add the mushrooms, onion, and garlic. Cook over high heat, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms are seared and fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes. Return the tofu to the pan, add the tamarind and soy sauce, and boil until reduced by about half. The dish will look quite dark, and there should be plenty of liquid in the pan. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and plenty of freshly ground pepper. Add the chile and tomato, give a quick stir, and turn off the heat.
Return the pan to the heat, add the remaining oil, then when hot, add the mushrooms, onion, and garlic. Cook over high heat, stirring frequently, until the mushrooms are seared and fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes. Return the tofu to the pan, add the tamarind and soy sauce, and boil until reduced by about half. The dish will look quite dark, and there should be plenty of liquid in the pan. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and plenty of freshly ground pepper. Add the chile and tomato, give a quick stir, and turn off the heat.
4.
Drain the pasta and divide among 3 or 4 heated bowls. Spoon the tofu and mushrooms on top and serve with a little chopped parsley on each.
Stir-fried Noodles with Fresh and Baked TofuDrain the pasta and divide among 3 or 4 heated bowls. Spoon the tofu and mushrooms on top and serve with a little chopped parsley on each.
SERVES 4 TO 6
You’ll need a big wok or two skillets to hold this large stir-fry. Here’s a recipe where you can put that very dense, baked tofu to good use. Choose tofu that’s been flavored with star anise or five-spice powder, available in natural food stores. It has an entirely different texture than fresh—it’s quite meaty, actually. I find it tastes best if you slice it thinly and stir-fry it with the ginger and garlic
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The Sauce
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons tamari
3 tablespoons hoisin or oyster sauce
¼ cup stock or water
1 tablespoon rice wine or sherry
2 teaspoons sugar
¼ cup coarsely chopped cilantro, plus long, pretty sprigs for garnish
•
One 8- to 10-ounce package Chinese wide-cut egg noodles
1 carton firm tofu, drained and cut into large cubes
2½ tablespoons roasted peanut oil
1 heaping tablespoon chopped ginger
1 heaping tablespoon chopped garlic
1 jalapeño chile, seeded and diced
2 chunks baked tofu, thinly sliced
1 onion, thinly sliced
6 shiitake mushrooms, stems discarded, thinly sliced
1 large broccoli, the head cut into florets, the stem peeled and sliced
1 red or yellow bell pepper, cut into narrow strips, then halved
2 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced
Salt
4 ounces snow peas, trimmed
1 bunch scallions, including the firm greens, cut into 1-inch lengths
1.
Mix the sauce ingredients together and set aside.
Mix the sauce ingredients together and set aside.
2.
Bring a pot of water to boil for the noodles and tofu. Reduce it to a simmer, add the cubed tofu and simmer gently for 4 minutes. Lift out the tofu with a strainer and set aside. Return the water to a boil, add the noodles and cook until tender-firm, following the package directions. Drain and rinse under cold water. Toss with 1 tablespoon of the oil and set aside.
Bring a pot of water to boil for the noodles and tofu. Reduce it to a simmer, add the cubed tofu and simmer gently for 4 minutes. Lift out the tofu with a strainer and set aside. Return the water to a boil, add the noodles and cook until tender-firm, following the package directions. Drain and rinse under cold water. Toss with 1 tablespoon of the oil and set aside.
3.
Set a wok or skillet over high heat. Add the remaining oil, swirl it around. When hot, add the ginger, garlic, chile, and baked tofu. Stir-fry for 1 minute, then add onion, mushrooms, broccoli, bell pepper, and carrots. Season with a few pinches of salt and stir-fry, rapidly tossing the vegetables in their pan, for 3 minutes.
Set a wok or skillet over high heat. Add the remaining oil, swirl it around. When hot, add the ginger, garlic, chile, and baked tofu. Stir-fry for 1 minute, then add onion, mushrooms, broccoli, bell pepper, and carrots. Season with a few pinches of salt and stir-fry, rapidly tossing the vegetables in their pan, for 3 minutes.
4.
Now add the snow peas, scallions, and boiled tofu. Stir-fry for 1 minute more, then add the noodles and the sauce. Reduce the heat, toss so that everything is evenly mingled, then cover and cook until the noodles are heated through, a matter of just a few minutes. Turn onto a large platter and garnish with sprigs of cilantro.
Now add the snow peas, scallions, and boiled tofu. Stir-fry for 1 minute more, then add the noodles and the sauce. Reduce the heat, toss so that everything is evenly mingled, then cover and cook until the noodles are heated through, a matter of just a few minutes. Turn onto a large platter and garnish with sprigs of cilantro.
ONCE WHEN I WAS LOOKING FOR LUNCH
in Baja, Mexico, I noticed a sign advertising “soy chorizo.” I found it surprising, but since then I’ve also found soy chorizo advertised elsewhere in Mexico. I discovered in a Mexican health food store, that it was made of TVP, or texturized vegetable protein, seasoned with chorizo spices. The sausage I tried in the market was absolutely delicious. Most likely, the TVP was used as an extender and mixed with pork. Nonetheless, it inspired me to make an attempt at using tofu in sausage and, the result is a delicious crumble that’s right at home with scrambled eggs or in a breakfast burrito. If you want a “sausage” that will stick together, add some moistened bread crumbs and eggs. I’ve included both methods here. While I’ve stayed with Mexican seasonings, if you like the idea, try using the seasonings that go into your favorite sausages—cumin, fennel seed, chile—whatever you prefer.
Tofu also works well as scrambled eggs. If you use a soft tofu and just break it into the pan, you’ll end up with tender curds; firmer tofu will give you denser ones. Just a pinch or two of turmeric or curry softens the glaring white color of the tofu, giving it a light golden hue. This is one instance where additions such as cheese, scallions, herbs, and salsas fit right in. You can also break an egg or two, or just the whites, into the pan once the tofu is cooked. I ate scrambled tofu with egg whites for a week at the Rancho la Puerta fitness spa and never realized I was eating tofu (and me, a tofu fan!), so that just goes to show you how well it can work.
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS
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