This Can't Be Tofu! (8 page)

A veritable homage to cilantro, this amazing salad comes from
Bruce Cost’s Book of Asian Ingredients,
a book that’s unfortunately out of print. (If you’re interested in understanding Asian ingredients, look for it in used book stores.) This salad should be served by itself in small portions, as it’s quite intensely flavored. I also like to serve it over warm white rice garnished with additional chopped peanuts
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1.
Cut the pressed tofu crosswise into 6 slabs, then into a medium dice. Wick up any extra water with a paper towel.

2.
Heat the oil in a 10-inch cast-iron or other heavy skillet until nearly smoking. Add the tofu, 5 or 6 pieces at a time, and fry until golden. You may have to separate them as they cook since they tend to gravitate toward each other. Set on paper towels to drain off the extra oil, then place in a bowl.

3.
Drop the peanuts into the hot oil and turn off the heat. Let them sit until they turn golden, after a few minutes, then remove and set on paper towels to drain.

4.
Bring a quart of water to a boil. Add the cilantro, give it a stir, then drain it into a colander. Rinse under cold running water, then squeeze out the excess moisture. Chop finely.

5.
Add the peanuts and chopped cilantro to the tofu along with the remaining ingredients. Toss well, then serve.

Darkly glazed peppered tofu crisps are hidden in this warm salad. Although this is a cooked salad, it should be served right away; it tastes best warm, plus its colors grow dingy if it sits around
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1.
Make the peppered tofu crisps and set them aside.

2.
Whisk the dressing ingredients together, making sure the miso is completely blended.

3.
Heat one-fourth of the dressing in a wide skillet over high heat. Add the onion and yellow pepper and cook briskly, stirring often until softened, about 4 minutes. Remove to a plate. Return the skillet to the heat and add the cabbage. Drizzle over about two-thirds of the remaining dressing and cook, turning frequently, until the cabbage has softened but still retains its bright color, about 4 minutes. Add the snow peas and pod peas, fresh or frozen, during the last minute and turn off the heat.

4.
Heat the remaining dressing in a small skillet. Add the tofu and turn briskly in the dressing until glazed. It will be quite dark. Add it to the cabbage and toss a few times to mix it in.

5.
Mound the cabbage and tofu on a large plate, garnish with the peppers, onions, scallions, cilantro, and sesame seeds. Serve.

The tofu is hidden in the sauce, and even friends of mine who approach tofu with firm suspicion never guessed it was there. This herb-laced sauce is not only perfect for the chilled salmon and steamed potatoes, but it’s friendly with a host of other dishes, such as a dressing for romaine salads, vegetable slaws, warm flageolet beans, and green beans. You can take it right through the season of your herb garden, replacing the dill with marjoram, lovage, chervil, tarragon, and lemon thyme
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1.
Rinse off the salmon, then place it in a pan, cover with cold water, and add a heaping tablespoon of salt. Bring the water to a boil, then turn off the heat and let stand for 25 minutes. Lift the salmon out, remove the skin, and refrigerate, covered, until ready to use.

2.
Closer to serving time, scrub the potatoes, cut them in half (lengthwise if fingerlings), and steam over boiling water until tender when pierced with a knife, about 20 minutes.

3.
Puree the tofu in a food processor with the yogurt, sour cream, and olive oil until perfectly smooth. Add lemon zest, lemon juice to taste, dill, and garlic, and process again until smooth and pale green.

4.
Scrape into a bowl and stir in all but a few of the chives. Taste for salt and season with pepper. Wipe the bowl so that it looks neat, sprinkle over the remaining chives and chive blossoms. Chill until ready to use.

5.
To serve, flake the salmon onto 4 plates, add the potatoes and watercress. Spoon a little sauce over the salad and garnish with chives.

Serve this curried tofu in butter-lettuce leaves garnished with roasted cashews or chunks of chutney, or as a sandwich filling. Steeping the tofu in hot water firms up the texture and rounds out the flavor. The directions call for rather large pieces, but if you prefer, break up the tofu with a fork
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1.
Cut the tofu into cubes or strips about ⅓ inch across. Bring 6 cups water to a boil, add 1 teaspoon salt, and turn off the heat. Lower the tofu into the water and let it sit for 2 minutes. Gently tip it into a wide colander, then rinse under cool water. Shake off the excess moisture and turn the tofu onto a clean kitchen towel to dry.

2.
Combine the remaining ingredients. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding more curry powder or lime juice, if needed, to make it a little more zesty. Add the tofu and gently toss with a rubber spatula. If possible, chill 20 minutes or more. The flavors will emerge and mellow as the salad stands.

Tofu “egg” salad has been around at least since the seventies. The texture is fine; what it needs is plenty of seasonings. Fresh herbs, especially marjoram and lovage, should you have some in your garden, are ideal. Unless you’re avoiding eggs, there’s no reason why you can’t add one or more to the salad
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Sandwich the salad between the bread of your choice—white, wheat, or an interesting herb or olive bread—with several peppery watercress or arugula leaves
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