This Can't Be Tofu! (4 page)

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Authors: Deborah Madison

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Commercially Prepared Deep-Fried Tofu

Sometimes called
age
, these pieces of deep-fried tofu can be found packaged a dozen or so to a pack in Chinese and Japanese grocery stores. (Look for it in the refrigerated cases or freezer.) I often include one or two of these pieces, slivered or diced, along with my regular tofu, as a flavor accent. They have a great chewy texture and an attractive golden surface.

Before using deep-fried tofu, dip it in a pan of boiling water for several seconds, or pour the water over it to remove some of the frying oil. Thinly slice the tofu and add the pieces to stir-fries or fried rice, or cut into larger pieces and simmer in a stew along with fresh tofu.

Skillet Seared Tofu
SERVES 3 TO 4
This is fast and easy. Eat it as is or add any condiments of the mustard-mayo-horseradish variety
.
1 carton firm tofu, drained
2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil
3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce, steak sauce, or tamari Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1.
Slice the tofu crosswise into 6 or 8 pieces, ½-inch thick or slightly less. Blot with paper towels.
2.
Heat the oil in a cast-iron skillet. When hot, add the tofu and fry over medium-high heat until golden. Turn and cook the second side, about 10 minutes in all. Pour over the Worcestershire sauce and continue cooking until it evaporates, leaving the tofu nicely glazed and seasoned. Salt lightly and season with plenty of pepper.
Seared Tofu with Chives and Pepper
MAKES 6 TO 8 PIECES
Utterly straightforward, fast, and good, you can vary it by using olive oil and, another herb, such as tarragon or oregano, in place of the cilantro. With the soy and sesame, it becomes something of an East-West combination, but one that works
.
1 carton firm tofu, drained
1 tablespoon peanut or vegetable oil
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 scallion, thinly sliced on the diagonal
1 tablespoon finely minced chives Pinch red pepper flakes
4 teaspoons chopped cilantro
1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1.
Cut the tofu into slabs about ½ inch thick or a little less and set on paper toweling while you assemble the rest of the ingredients. Blot the tops as well.
2.
Heat a nonstick skillet, then lightly coat it with the oil. When hot, add the tofu and cook over medium-high heat until golden but still tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Turn and cook the second side. Sprinkle the soy sauce over the tofu and turn off the heat. It will quickly evaporate.
3.
Scatter the scallion, chives, pepper flakes, cilantro, and sesame seeds over the top, then season with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Glazed Tofu
SERVES 3 TO 4
This is a basic technique you can use with any marinade. Glazing is much more effective than marinating; it couldn’t be easier, plus there’s a lot you can do with this recipe. You can cut the tofu into strips or small cubes, then toss them into hot or cold Chinese noodles. Cut the tofu into 1-inch cubes, skewer them and serve as an appetizer with the
Peanut Sauce
. You can also cut the tofu into larger triangles and serve them as a main course, again with peanut sauce, a scattering of lemon thyme leaves or slivered scallions
.
1 carton firm or extra-firm tofu
2 large garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons fresh lime or lemon juice
½ cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon molasses
2 teaspoons roasted peanut or dark sesame oil
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 to 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1.
Drain the tofu, cut it into the shapes and sizes you desire, and set on paper toweling to drain. Blot well.
2.
While the tofu is draining, combine the next 6 ingredients in a small bowl. Season with a few pinches of salt and plenty of pepper.
3.
Heat a large cast-iron skillet or nonstick pan and film with a tablespoon of oil. When hot, add the tofu and cook over medium-high heat, without disturbing, until crisp and golden, about 7 minutes. Turn and cook on the other side, adding more oil if necessary.
4.
Pour in the marinade and shuffle the pan back and forth to coat the tofu. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until the sauce is syrupy and the tofu is glazed. Don’t let it cook so long that it gets sticky.
Grilled Tofu
MAKES ABOUT 4 TO 6 PIECES
After much experience I’m convinced that all the marinating in the world doesn’t do as much for tofu as we’d like it to. The marinade doesn’t really penetrate or transform the tofu. What you might do, however, to give the tofu some luster and a bit of flavor on the surface, is simply to brush it with any of the sauces mentioned above or some similar sauce. While you’re at it, grill some onion rings as well. Regardless of the sauce you use, they’ll be great on top or alongside (
see Note
)
.
1 carton extra-firm or firm tofu, drained
¾ cup of any of the following: soy sauce or tamari, teriyaki sauce, steak sauce, Worcestershire sauce, commercial barbecue sauce, or Korean barbecue sauce
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1.
Slice the tofu into ½ inch slabs. Brush it with any of the sauces and season with salt and pepper.
2.
Preheat the grill. Make sure the grill rack is clean and oiled. You can add wood chips or rosemary twigs to the flames for their fragrant smoke.
3.
Cook the tofu until lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Turn 45 degrees for cross-hatched lines, if desired, then turn and cook on the second side as well. Brush with additional sauce as it cooks. Just take care not to overcook it; tofu can dry out. Serve with accompaniments such as sambals, chutneys, or salsas.
Note:
For onion rings, slice a large, peeled red or yellow onion into ½ inch rounds. Brush with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Secure the rings with a couple of toothpicks so they won’t fall apart. Grill on both sides until lightly marked and slightly softened.
Smoked Tofu with Barbecue Sauce
MAKES 6 PIECES
The first time I put tofu in a smoker, not much happened. As with a marinade, the smoky flavor stayed mainly on the surface. But then I tried using some ideas from
Smoke and Spice,
the smoker’s bible, by Bill and Cheryl Jamison, and got some very different results. With a Cameron stovetop smoker this couldn’t be easier—or more effective. Keep in mind that the tofu just isn’t going to be wet and juicy like a barbecued brisket, even if the flavor is good. So what to do with it? I put it in a white roll with extra sauce and some sliced onions (you could smoke those, too, while you’re at it). Coleslaw on the side, of course. Chunk up any leftovers and add them to a pot of chili. There’s enough spice rub here for two cartons of tofu, but you’ll need to double the amount of butter and Worcestershire sauce
.
1 carton firm or extra-firm tofu, drained and sliced into 6 slabs
3 tablespoons butter or oil
5 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce


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