Too Rich and Too Dead (33 page)

When it comes to the world's best ski towns, Aspen, Colorado, ranks high on the list with such luxurious spots as St. Moritz, Innsbruck, and Chamonix. But while this enclave of the rich, the famous, and the well-coordinated makes a great destination for skiers, what about travelers who prefer admiring mountains from afar to sliding down them?

The good news is that Aspen is big enough and diverse enough to keep just about anyone entertained—even flatlanders. Once a center for silver mining, today Aspen offers cultural activities, first-r ate accommodations, historic sites, and fabulous shopping—especially for those with humongous limits on their credit cards. And while the entire town occupies less than four square miles, it boasts more than eighty restaurants.

Here's just a sampling of ways that even a nonskier can have fun in Aspen:

• Soar to the top of the world.
  To feel like you're on top of the world, take a ride to the top of Aspen Mountain on the Silver Queen Gondola. While the main purpose of the fifteen-minute trip is to transport skiers, the cable car runs to the 11,200-foot summit year-round. The view of the Rockies is spectacular, and visitors can enjoy their scenic surroundings while lingering over
  tandoori chicken at the mountaintop restaurant, the Sundeck. (Silver Queen Gondola,
  http://www.aspensnowmass.com/summer_rec/gondola.cfm
  .)
  

• Enjoy a concert or play.
  Back in the late 1800s, silver baron Jerome Wheeler dreamed of turning the rough-and-tumble town of Aspen into a cultural center. His legacy includes the Wheeler Opera House, which combines the Wild West with European elegance. Today, visitors can enjoy plays, concerts, opera, ballet, films, and lectures while luxuriating in this Aspen institution's old-fashioned red velvet seats and enjoying the sleek wooden balcony and airy blue ceiling. (Wheeler Opera House, 320 East Hyman Avenue, Aspen, Box Office: 970–920–5770,
  www.wheeleroperahouse.com
  .)
  

• Gorge on fabulous food.
  Aspen's extensive list of restaurants starts with 1950s-style diners and ends with world-class eateries. Montagna at the Little Nell resort features “farmhouse food” that incorporates local ingredients. (don't be overwhelmed by the sixty-nine-page wine list, since the sommelier is happy to make recommendations.) The jury is still out on the eighteen-dollar chocolate tasting, which includes four minuscule but marvelous desserts. (Montagna, 675 East Durant Avenue, Aspen, 888–843–6355 or 970–920–4600,
  http://www.thelittlenell.com
  .) For a truly unique experience, take the half-hour drive to the Pine Creek Cookhouse. The adventure begins
  by traveling from the parking area to the restaurant by horse-drawn sleigh. Once inside the rustic log cabin nestled in the mountains, guests can enjoy such Colorado fare as buffalo meat loaf and the Wild Game Mixed Grill, made with caribou, antelope, and homemade wild game sausage. The setting, replete with knotty pine, light fixtures fashioned from antlers, and incredibly scenic views, provides the perfect opportunity to enjoy a Rocky Mountain high. (Pine Creek Cookhouse, 314 South 2nd Street, Aspen, 970–925–1044,
  www.pinecreekcookhouse.com
  .)
  

• Luxuriate in top-of-the-line accommodations.
  In addition to building the Wheeler Opera House, Jerome Wheeler constructed the opulent Hotel Jerome. While the hotel has undergone multiple renovations, it still has a historic feeling. Upon entering the lobby, visitors will instantly be transported back to the Wild West. Ornate dark red wallpaper covers the walls, thick Oriental carpets cushion the wooden floors, and the old-fashioned lampshades and overstuffed couches are edged with silk fringe. Be sure to try the J-Bar's house drink, the Aspen Crud, a milkshake spiked with bourbon that reflects the fact that during Prohibition, the bar became a soda fountain. (Hotel Jerome, 330 East Main Street, Aspen, 970–920–1000,
  hoteljerome.rockresorts.com
  .)
  

• Pay tribute to a musical icon.
  John Denver's love of the Rockies prompted the singer-songwriter to
  make Aspen his home from the 1970s until his death at age fifty-three in 1997. Well-loved songs such as “Rocky Mountain High,” “Annie's Song,” and “Sunshine On My Shoulders” made him one of the five top-selling artists in music industry history, earning him eight platinum and fourteen gold albums. Today, Denver is honored at the John Denver Sanctuary near the Rio Grande Park, a tranquil spot marked by boulders engraved with the lyrics of his songs.
  

• Become a gourmet chef.
  Eating in Aspen's great restaurants is enough to inspire anyone to learn their way around a kitchen. So what better place to live out that dream than the Cooking School of Aspen? Classes include “From Soup to Nuts,” in which participants prepare a five-course meal, learn which wines to pair with the food, and then sit down to enjoy the fruits of their labors, resulting in an experience that's not only fun but delicious. (Cooking School of Aspen, 414 East Hyman Avenue, Aspen, 970–920–1879,
  www.cookingschoolofaspen.com
  .)
  

• Spend some of your hard-earned dough.
  When it comes to shopping, the streets of Aspen may not be paved with gold, but having a little in your pockets certainly wouldn't hurt. The fact that downtown still retains its Wild West feeling, rather than an ambience of glitz and glamour, makes browsing through shops that sell cashmere sweaters and Gucci purses a wonderfully incongruous experience. But there is
  truly something for everyone. Even at Amen Wardy, where the merchandise includes rubber gloves decorated with ruffles, fake flowers, and a rhinestone ring for forty dollars, a discriminating shopper can find bargains like organic room spray made with green oolong tea and orchids—a product that turns out to have many varied uses. (Amen Wardy, 210 South Galena Street, Aspen, 970–920–7700,
  www.amenwardyaspen.com
  .) And be sure to check out the Explore Booksellers and Bistro, where book lovers are guaranteed to find a home away from home. (Explore Booksellers and Bistro, 221 East Main Street, Aspen, 970–925–5336 or 800–562– READ (7323),
  www.explorebooksellers.com
  .)
  

• Learn to relax with yoga.
  One of the best ways of getting in touch with your body is by taking a yoga class at one of the many studios in town, such as the Earth, Wind, Fire, and Water Sanctuary for Mind, Body, and Spirit. Experience Vinyasa Flow Yoga, Iyengar, Ashtanga, Bhakti, and Jivamukti—one of which is bound to pave the way to a more peaceful existence. (600 West Main Street, Aspen 970–555–5353,
  www.EarthWindFireWater.com
  .)
  

• Mellow out with a spa treatment or in a hot tub.
  Nothing is as relaxing as a massage—except, perhaps, unwinding in a hot tub. The Remède Spa at the St. Regis Aspen Resort raises the concept of pampering to an entirely new level. Visitors can luxuriate in the one-of-a-kind grotto, a wonderfully serene pool surrounded by three waterfalls that
  cascade down its rough stone walls. Just beyond is a stone-enclosed hot tub with a cold plunge pool. (Remède Spa, 315 East Dean Street, Aspen, 970– 429–9038,
  www.remede.com
  .)