Read True Summit Online

Authors: David Roberts

True Summit (33 page)

BOOK: True Summit
5.75Mb size Format: txt, pdf, ePub
ads

Brazil,
56
,
208

British mountain climbers,
16
,
17
,
119
–20,
148
–49,
150
,
216

“Brotherhood of the Rope, The” (Rébuffat),
38
,
40
,
66

Brown, Joe,
149

Bruce, Charles,
29

Buffet, Charlie,
216
–17

Buhl, Hermann,
38
,
146
,
222

cacolet,
122

CAF,
see
Club Alpin Français

Calanques,
33
,
42

California,
64

Canada,
63
,
193

Cannon cliff,
67

Carnets du Vertige
(Lachenal),
80
,
87
–88,
91
,
111
–12,
118

“Commentaries” section of,
173
–78,
213
,
221
–22,
223
–24,
225

as construct,
109

expurgating of Lachenal's writing for first edition of,
25
,
43
,
49
–51,
52
–53,
73
,
123
,
165
–67,
172
–74,
178
,
182
,
186
,
224

return from Annapurna in,
121
–22,
123
,
127
–28,
130
,
132

sources of post-1950 sections of,
164

summit climb of Herzog and Lachenal in,
212
,
213
,
214
–16,
219
,
223
–24,
225

unexpurgated edition of,
26
,
53
,
73
,
74
,
76
–77,
86
,
101
,
120
,
141
,
165
,
178
–79,
181
,
217

Cassin, Ricardo,
31
,
37
,
56
,
65
,
198
–99

Cenotaph Corner,
149

Chabert, Pierre,
181

Chacraraju,
65
,
195
,
197

Chacraraju East,
196
,
198

Chamonix,
15
,
22
,
24
,
25
,
42
,
51
,
57
,
58
,
59
,
61
,
62
,
65
,
82
,
109
,
121
,
123
–24,
128
,
146
,
150
,
158
,
160
,
167
–68,
169
,
178
,
188
,
189
,
195
,
203
,
208
,
209
,
217
,
218
,
219

as birthplace of mountaineering,
34

guides and,
34
–35

Herzog as mayor of,
140

Charlet, Armand,
28
,
85
–86

Chomolonzo,
144
,
195

Cima Grande,
37
,
49

Cima Ovest di Lavaredo,
142

class bias,
30

Climbing,
181

Club Alpin Français (CAF),
25
,
34
,
42
,
123
,
218

Himalayan Committee of,
29
,
30
,
31
,
32
,
46
,
85
,
138
,
180
,
182

Coast Range,
63

Col du Caïman,
36
,
58
,
83
,
197

Col de Peuterey,
83

Col des Montets,
163

Collège des Praz,
51

Colorado Outward Bound School,
40

Colorado River,
155

Colorado Rockies,
23
,
38
–39,
40
,
63
,
67

Comité de l'Himalaya,
see
Himalayan Committee

Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix,
203

Lachenal in,
65
,
159
–60

Rébuffat in,
34
,
36
,
156

Terray in,
60

Compagnie Stéphane,
54
,
59
,
205

“connaissance devenue conscience,”
141

Conquest of Fitzroy, The
(Azéma),
67
–68

Conquistadors of the Useless
(Terray),
64
–65,
66
,
67
,
68
,
69
,
70
–71,
72
,
73
,
74
–75,
80
–81,
82
–83,
84
,
88
–89,
90
–92,
179
,
188
,
192
–94,
202
,
207
,
210
,
215

Couzy as portrayed in,
142
,
143
,
144
,
145

descent of Annapurna in,
97
,
98
,
99
,
103
,
105
,
111
,
113
–14

Lachenal as portrayed in,
162
,
170
–71,
191

manuscript of,
208
–9

as partial fiction,
109

publication of,
197

style of,
197
–98

Terray's authorship of,
206
,
208
–9

Contamine, André,
86
,
163
–64,
165
,
167

Contamines,
65

Continental Divide,
23

Coquoz (Swiss alpinist),
162
,
163

cordée,
83
,
92
,
113

definition of,
59
,
66

partnership of Lachenal and Terray as,
66
,
68
,
73
,
74
,
78
,
170
,
189

summit climb of Herzog and Lachenal as,
225

Cordillera Blanca,
196

Cordillera Vilcabamba,
196

Cornuau, Philippe,
164
,
167
,
172
,
182
,
219

Cossé-Brissac, Marie-Pierre de,
85

Coupé, Serge,
205

Couttet, James,
168

Couttet, Mauricette,
160
,
164
–65

Couzy, Jean,
49
,
71
,
72
,
90
,
95
–96,
97
,
108
,
114
,
115
–16,
117
,
121
,
130
,
133
,
142
–46,
197
,
210
,
219

Annapurna role of,
78
–79,
142

death of,
144
–45,
193

mountain climbing experience and ability of,
142
–43

post-Annapurna climbing career of,
16
,
65
,
78
,
143
–44,
193
,
195

Couzy, Lise,
79
,
143
,
145
–46

crampons,
120

Creagh Dhu,
148
–49

Croix de Guerre,
84

Dambush Khola,
47
,
53

Dauphiné Libéré,
181

débandade,
174

Deborah, Mount,
67
,
188
,
198
,
200
,
201

Deck, Claude,
182

de Gaulle, Charles,
22
,
84
,
100
,
140
,
180
,
210

dehydration,
120

Delhi,
129
,
131
–32,
173

Dent Gérard,
57
,
58

Devies, Lucien,
30
–33,
43
,
46
,
54
,
131
,
135
,
137
–38,
147
,
181
,
182
,
185

as chief of Club Alpin Français,
29

in expurgating of
Carnets,
25
,
53
,
123
,
165
,
166
,
172
–74,
186
,
224

oath of obedience demanded by,
31
–33

official positions held by,
32

Rébuffat on,
33

Dexedrine,
120

Dhaulagiri,
68
,
70
,
71
,
72
,
174
,
176

first ascent of,
53

height of,
46

reconnoitering of,
46
–48,
53
–54,
68
–69

Dimanche
8
,
180
–81

Dolomites,
31
,
37
,
142

D'Ormesson, Jean,
185

Droites,
167

drugs,
120
–21,
122
,
123
,
125
,
132
,
175

Dufour litter,
121
–22

Ecole des Hautes Etudes Commerciales,
82

Ecole Nationale de Ski et d'Alpinisme,
180
,
182

Ecrins,
34

Editions Guérin,
178
–79

Eiger,
31
,
38
,
40
,
66
,
68
,
142
,
146
,
190
,
197
,
198
,
210

Eiselin, Max,
53

Elbert, Mount,
38

Elk Range,
40

“enchanted garden,”
37
,
41
,
83
,
147

Entre Terre et Ciel
(Rébuffat),
41
,
147
,
148

Equipe, L',
140
,
142
,
181

Etoiles et Tempêtes, see Starlight and Storm

Everest, Mount,
16
,
23
,
29
,
45
,
96
,
115
,
119
,
120
,
159
,
217
,
223

Faucigny, Le,
185

Fédération Française de la Montagne (FFM),
32
,
181
,
193
,
219

Figaro, Le,
127
,
181
,
185
,
186

Finch, George,
120

First on the Rope
(Frison-Roche),
35

Fischer, Scott,
223

Fitzroy,
65
,
67
–68,
194
,
196
,
198
,
199
,
220

Flatirons,
63

Foca camera,
116
,
137
,
218

Fontainebleau,
203

footgear,
96
,
119
–20,
176
–77

Forces Motrices de Chancy-Pougny,
140

Fourès, Leonce,
219
–20

Foutharkey,
187

France,
29
,
35
,
133

Francillon, Claude,
179
,
187

Franco, Jean,
52

French mountain climbers,
16
–17,
30
–31,
52
,
78
,
150
,
216

Frendo, Edouard,
56

Freney Pillar,
154

Fresnay Glacier,
197

Frison-Roche, Roger,
35

Frost, Robert,
105

frostbite,
87
,
110
,
116
,
159

equipment and,
96
–97,
119
–20

of Herzog,
15
,
19
,
21
,
97
,
100
,
101
–2,
104
,
116
,
117
,
119
,
121
,
213
,
222
,
223

of Lachenal,
15
,
21
,
99
,
100
,
103
,
104
–5,
116
,
119
,
121
,
123
,
127
,
213
,
222
,
223

novocaine as treatment for,
21
,
121

of Sherpas,
96

whipping as treatment for,
19
,
100

funeral rites,
49
–50,
52

Gamper, Elisabeth,
85

gangrene,
132

Gasherbrum I,
16
,
32
,
216

Gaston Rébuffat: Une Vie pour la Montagne
(Ballu),
26
,
32
,
33
,
41
,
73
,
76
,
101
,
141
,
153
,
179
,
180
,
217

Gaullists,
30
,
54

BOOK: True Summit
5.75Mb size Format: txt, pdf, ePub
ads

Other books

Bad To The Bone by Katy Munger
Doomstalker by Glen Cook
Gurriers by Kevin Brennan
Secrets She Kept by Cathy Gohlke
The Wedding Dress by Kimberly Cates
LUST by Laura B. Cooper
Queen of Babble by Meg Cabot