True Summit (33 page)

Brazil,
56
,
208

British mountain climbers,
16
,
17
,
119
–20,
148
–49,
150
,
216

“Brotherhood of the Rope, The” (Rébuffat),
38
,
40
,
66

Brown, Joe,
149

Bruce, Charles,
29

Buffet, Charlie,
216
–17

Buhl, Hermann,
38
,
146
,
222

cacolet,
122

CAF,
see
Club Alpin Français

Calanques,
33
,
42

California,
64

Canada,
63
,
193

Cannon cliff,
67

Carnets du Vertige
(Lachenal),
80
,
87
–88,
91
,
111
–12,
118

“Commentaries” section of,
173
–78,
213
,
221
–22,
223
–24,
225

as construct,
109

expurgating of Lachenal's writing for first edition of,
25
,
43
,
49
–51,
52
–53,
73
,
123
,
165
–67,
172
–74,
178
,
182
,
186
,
224

return from Annapurna in,
121
–22,
123
,
127
–28,
130
,
132

sources of post-1950 sections of,
164

summit climb of Herzog and Lachenal in,
212
,
213
,
214
–16,
219
,
223
–24,
225

unexpurgated edition of,
26
,
53
,
73
,
74
,
76
–77,
86
,
101
,
120
,
141
,
165
,
178
–79,
181
,
217

Cassin, Ricardo,
31
,
37
,
56
,
65
,
198
–99

Cenotaph Corner,
149

Chabert, Pierre,
181

Chacraraju,
65
,
195
,
197

Chacraraju East,
196
,
198

Chamonix,
15
,
22
,
24
,
25
,
42
,
51
,
57
,
58
,
59
,
61
,
62
,
65
,
82
,
109
,
121
,
123
–24,
128
,
146
,
150
,
158
,
160
,
167
–68,
169
,
178
,
188
,
189
,
195
,
203
,
208
,
209
,
217
,
218
,
219

as birthplace of mountaineering,
34

guides and,
34
–35

Herzog as mayor of,
140

Charlet, Armand,
28
,
85
–86

Chomolonzo,
144
,
195

Cima Grande,
37
,
49

Cima Ovest di Lavaredo,
142

class bias,
30

Climbing,
181

Club Alpin Français (CAF),
25
,
34
,
42
,
123
,
218

Himalayan Committee of,
29
,
30
,
31
,
32
,
46
,
85
,
138
,
180
,
182

Coast Range,
63

Col du Caïman,
36
,
58
,
83
,
197

Col de Peuterey,
83

Col des Montets,
163

Collège des Praz,
51

Colorado Outward Bound School,
40

Colorado River,
155

Colorado Rockies,
23
,
38
–39,
40
,
63
,
67

Comité de l'Himalaya,
see
Himalayan Committee

Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix,
203

Lachenal in,
65
,
159
–60

Rébuffat in,
34
,
36
,
156

Terray in,
60

Compagnie Stéphane,
54
,
59
,
205

“connaissance devenue conscience,”
141

Conquest of Fitzroy, The
(Azéma),
67
–68

Conquistadors of the Useless
(Terray),
64
–65,
66
,
67
,
68
,
69
,
70
–71,
72
,
73
,
74
–75,
80
–81,
82
–83,
84
,
88
–89,
90
–92,
179
,
188
,
192
–94,
202
,
207
,
210
,
215

Couzy as portrayed in,
142
,
143
,
144
,
145

descent of Annapurna in,
97
,
98
,
99
,
103
,
105
,
111
,
113
–14

Lachenal as portrayed in,
162
,
170
–71,
191

manuscript of,
208
–9

as partial fiction,
109

publication of,
197

style of,
197
–98

Terray's authorship of,
206
,
208
–9

Contamine, André,
86
,
163
–64,
165
,
167

Contamines,
65

Continental Divide,
23

Coquoz (Swiss alpinist),
162
,
163

cordée,
83
,
92
,
113

definition of,
59
,
66

partnership of Lachenal and Terray as,
66
,
68
,
73
,
74
,
78
,
170
,
189

summit climb of Herzog and Lachenal as,
225

Cordillera Blanca,
196

Cordillera Vilcabamba,
196

Cornuau, Philippe,
164
,
167
,
172
,
182
,
219

Cossé-Brissac, Marie-Pierre de,
85

Coupé, Serge,
205

Couttet, James,
168

Couttet, Mauricette,
160
,
164
–65

Couzy, Jean,
49
,
71
,
72
,
90
,
95
–96,
97
,
108
,
114
,
115
–16,
117
,
121
,
130
,
133
,
142
–46,
197
,
210
,
219

Annapurna role of,
78
–79,
142

death of,
144
–45,
193

mountain climbing experience and ability of,
142
–43

post-Annapurna climbing career of,
16
,
65
,
78
,
143
–44,
193
,
195

Couzy, Lise,
79
,
143
,
145
–46

crampons,
120

Creagh Dhu,
148
–49

Croix de Guerre,
84

Dambush Khola,
47
,
53

Dauphiné Libéré,
181

débandade,
174

Deborah, Mount,
67
,
188
,
198
,
200
,
201

Deck, Claude,
182

de Gaulle, Charles,
22
,
84
,
100
,
140
,
180
,
210

dehydration,
120

Delhi,
129
,
131
–32,
173

Dent Gérard,
57
,
58

Devies, Lucien,
30
–33,
43
,
46
,
54
,
131
,
135
,
137
–38,
147
,
181
,
182
,
185

as chief of Club Alpin Français,
29

in expurgating of
Carnets,
25
,
53
,
123
,
165
,
166
,
172
–74,
186
,
224

oath of obedience demanded by,
31
–33

official positions held by,
32

Rébuffat on,
33

Dexedrine,
120

Dhaulagiri,
68
,
70
,
71
,
72
,
174
,
176

first ascent of,
53

height of,
46

reconnoitering of,
46
–48,
53
–54,
68
–69

Dimanche
8
,
180
–81

Dolomites,
31
,
37
,
142

D'Ormesson, Jean,
185

Droites,
167

drugs,
120
–21,
122
,
123
,
125
,
132
,
175

Dufour litter,
121
–22

Ecole des Hautes Etudes Commerciales,
82

Ecole Nationale de Ski et d'Alpinisme,
180
,
182

Ecrins,
34

Editions Guérin,
178
–79

Eiger,
31
,
38
,
40
,
66
,
68
,
142
,
146
,
190
,
197
,
198
,
210

Eiselin, Max,
53

Elbert, Mount,
38

Elk Range,
40

“enchanted garden,”
37
,
41
,
83
,
147

Entre Terre et Ciel
(Rébuffat),
41
,
147
,
148

Equipe, L',
140
,
142
,
181

Etoiles et Tempêtes, see Starlight and Storm

Everest, Mount,
16
,
23
,
29
,
45
,
96
,
115
,
119
,
120
,
159
,
217
,
223

Faucigny, Le,
185

Fédération Française de la Montagne (FFM),
32
,
181
,
193
,
219

Figaro, Le,
127
,
181
,
185
,
186

Finch, George,
120

First on the Rope
(Frison-Roche),
35

Fischer, Scott,
223

Fitzroy,
65
,
67
–68,
194
,
196
,
198
,
199
,
220

Flatirons,
63

Foca camera,
116
,
137
,
218

Fontainebleau,
203

footgear,
96
,
119
–20,
176
–77

Forces Motrices de Chancy-Pougny,
140

Fourès, Leonce,
219
–20

Foutharkey,
187

France,
29
,
35
,
133

Francillon, Claude,
179
,
187

Franco, Jean,
52

French mountain climbers,
16
–17,
30
–31,
52
,
78
,
150
,
216

Frendo, Edouard,
56

Freney Pillar,
154

Fresnay Glacier,
197

Frison-Roche, Roger,
35

Frost, Robert,
105

frostbite,
87
,
110
,
116
,
159

equipment and,
96
–97,
119
–20

of Herzog,
15
,
19
,
21
,
97
,
100
,
101
–2,
104
,
116
,
117
,
119
,
121
,
213
,
222
,
223

of Lachenal,
15
,
21
,
99
,
100
,
103
,
104
–5,
116
,
119
,
121
,
123
,
127
,
213
,
222
,
223

novocaine as treatment for,
21
,
121

of Sherpas,
96

whipping as treatment for,
19
,
100

funeral rites,
49
–50,
52

Gamper, Elisabeth,
85

gangrene,
132

Gasherbrum I,
16
,
32
,
216

Gaston Rébuffat: Une Vie pour la Montagne
(Ballu),
26
,
32
,
33
,
41
,
73
,
76
,
101
,
141
,
153
,
179
,
180
,
217

Gaullists,
30
,
54