True Summit (34 page)

Gaussot, Phillippe,
181

George, Bernard,
130
,
187
,
221

German mountain climbers,
16
,
17
,
31
,
216

Germany, Nazi,
30
,
35

Gorakhpur,
129
,
130

Grade V pitches,
74

Grandes Aventures de l'Himalaya, Les
(Herzog),
81
,
152
–53

Grandes Jorasses,
31
,
37
,
51
–52,
55
–56

see also
Walker Spur

Great Britain,
29
,
141

see also
British mountain climbers

Grenoble,
56
,
59
,
206
,
207

Grépon,
29
,
58
,
61
,
72

Groupe de Haute Montagne (GHM),
32

Guérin, Michel,
24
,
25
,
27
,
41
,
52
,
86
,
174
,
187
,
188
,
204
,
205
,
208
–9,
210
–11,
218
,
219

unexpurgated edition of
Carnets
published by,
26
,
101
,
141
,
165
,
178
–79,
181
,
217

guides,
58
,
61
,
106

amateur climbers vs.,
29
–30,
82

Chamonix and,
34
–35

Lachenal on,
62

see also
Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix

“Guido, the sardine tin!,”
67
–68,
194

Gurkha Right Hand,
131

Gurkhas,
16
,
46
,
131

Hale, Matt,
201

Hall, Rob,
223

Harrer, Heinrich,
31
,
198

Harvard Mountaineering Club (HMC),
63

Hayes Range,
67

Heckmair, Andreas,
190

Heimermann, Benoît,
140
,
142
,
185
,
186
,
187

Herzog, Gérard,
25
,
43
,
49
,
53
,
83
,
123
,
164
,
165
,
166
,
172
,
174
,
178
,
182
,
187
,
224

Herzog, Maurice,
71
,
72
,
77
,
81
–86,
135
–42,
147
,
164
,
165
–66,
175
,
178
,
179
,
188
,
193
,
195
,
206

amputations of,
21
,
123
–24,
125
,
126
,
128
–30,
133
–34

background of,
81
–82

camera of,
116
,
137
,
218

character of,
81
–82,
101
,
209
–10

chosen as expedition leader,
28
–30,
82
–83,
85

corporate position of,
30
,
82
,
140

in decision to attempt Annapurna,
68
–69,
173

in descent from summit,
19
–21,
97
–100,
101
–18

differing accounts of descent given by,
100
–118

exclusive rights to expedition story held by,
25
,
43
,
135

in expurgating
Carnets,
25
,
53
,
165
–66,
172
–74,
186

in failed Northwest Spur attempt,
74
–76

frostbitten feet and hands of,
15
,
19
,
21
,
97
,
100
,
101
–2,
104
,
116
,
117
,
119
,
121
,
213
,
222
,
223

as GHM secretary,
32

gloves lost by,
19
,
101
–2,
104
,
121
,
223

ice axe of,
124

identification with Christ by,
124
,
125
–26,
139
,
185

leadership qualities of,
26
,
30
,
80
–81,
82
–83,
89
,
177
,
209
,
224

Legion of Honor awarded to,
159

Lise Couzy on,
79

marriages and children of,
85

mountain climbing experience and ability of,
16
,
28
,
80
,
82
–83,
89
,
177

mystical character of,
126

“new life” of,
125
–26,
133

on oath of obedience,
32
,
33

physical appearance of,
81
,
101

public career of,
22
,
140
–41

Rébuffat's bitterness toward,
76

reputation of,
22
,
26
,
137
–38,
139
–40,
141
,
185
,
192

in response to revisionist criticisms,
101
,
182
–85,
186
–87,
216
–17

in return from Annapurna,
21
,
119
–34

Roberts's 1999 interview with,
100
–103,
121
,
126
,
139
,
141
–42

on Sherpas,
46

and summit climb of Lachenal,
13
–16,
17
–19,
26
,
92
–94,
95
–97,
212
–25

summit photos of,
18
,
21
,
136
,
173
,
180
,
215
,
216
,
217
–20

trance-like state of mind of,
15
,
19
,
21
,
107
,
110
,
121
,
213
,
214
,
223

as
tuteur
to Lachenal family,
25
,
171
–72,
189
,
210

World War II experience of,
30
,
84
,
184

writings of,
81
;
see also Annapurna; Autre Annapurna, L'

High,
181

Hillary, Sir Edmund,
45
,
141
,
159
,
187

Himalaya,
30
,
65
,
119
,
143
,
196
,
202

alienness of,
175
–76

classic expedition narratives about,
23

first man to climb all 8,000–meter peaks of,
223

history of climbing expeditions in,
16
,
45
–46

reconnoitering in,
45
–46

world's highest mountains located in,
16

Himalayan Committee,
29
,
30
,
31
,
32
,
46
,
85
,
138
,
180
,
182

Hitler, Adolf,
31

Horay, Pierre,
167

Horizons Gagnés, Les
(Rébuffat),
147
,
157

Hôtel des Alpes,
42

Houston, Charley,
40

Huantsan,
195

Hunt, Sir John,
23

Hunter, Mount,
198

Huntington, Mount,
199
,
201
–2,
210

Ichac, Marcel,
47
,
81
,
103
,
112
,
117
,
127
,
128
,
129
,
130
,
131

film shot on Annapurna by,
136
–37,
180

previous Himalayan climbing experience of,
16
,
32
,
46

Rébuffat searched for film by,
179
,
219

India,
16
,
29
,
43
,
45
,
80

Indian Survey maps,
46
–47,
53
,
70

Irvine, Andrew,
29
,
115

Italian mountain climbers,
17
,
31

Italy,
65

Jannu,
65
,
196
,
198

“
jardin féerique,
”
see
“enchanted garden”

Jensen, Don,
64
,
65
,
66
–67,
188
,
190
,
200
–202

Jeunesse et Montagne (JM) (Youth and Mountains),
35
–37,
54
,
58
,
65

Kali Gandaki,
71

Kanchenjunga,
16
,
149
,
196

Kathmandu,
130
,
179

Kennedy, John F.,
141

Kléber-Colombes,
30
,
82
,
131
,
140
,
218
,
219
,
220

kletterschuhe,
39

Kor, Layton,
40

Kravchenko, Irène,
135
–36

K2,
16
,
40
,
45
,
162

K2: The Savage Mountain
(Bates and Houston),
40

Kurz, Marcel,
216

Lachenal, Adèle,
43
,
61
–62,
65
,
123
,
128
,
133
,
160
,
161
,
162
,
164
,
169
,
171

Lachenal, Arlette,
188
,
190

Lachenal, Jean-Claude,
25
,
26
,
159
,
160
,
165
–66,
171
,
178
–79,
187
,
188
–90,
219

Lachenal, Louis “Biscante,”
22
,
23
,
27
,
47
–48,
60
–62,
72
,
80
,
85
,
90
,
142
,
145
,
148
,
158
–91,
193
,
195
,
197
,
198
,
209
,
210

amputations of,
21
,
125
,
128
–30,
132
–33,
158

background of,
60

in Belgian Congo,
162
–63

car driving of,
160
–62,
170
–71

chalet of,
188
–89

death of,
25
,
168
–70

decision not to turn back on summit climb of,
15
,
222
–25

in descent from summit,
19
–21,
98
–100,
101
–18,
174

diary and memoir of,
see Carnets du Vertige

diary manuscript of,
190
–91

disenchantment of,
43
,
49
,
77

in failed Northwest Spur attempt,
73
–74,
75
,
77

frostbitten feet of,
15
,
21
,
99
,
100
,
103
,
104
–5,
116
,
119
,
121
,
123
,
127
,
213
,
222
,
223

as guide,
30
,
65
,
82

Herzog's portrayal of,
77
–78,
86
,
104
,
113
–14,
115
,
160
,
162
–63,
169
–70,
177
,
186
–87,
221
–22

honesty of,
218

impatience of,
48
,
60
,
65
,
78
,
109
,
123
,
129
,
177

in Jeunesse et Montagne,
65

Legion of Honor awarded to,
159

mountain climbing experience and ability of,
16
–17,
18
,
28
,
54
,
55
,
61
,
62
,
65
,
66
,
68
,
72
,
142
,
170

oath of obedience taken by,
32
,
33

origin of nickname of,
60

pacifism of,
54
,
65

physical appearance of,
61

post-Annapurna climbing of,
141
,
158
–60,
162
–63,
165
–69

post-Annapurna mental state of,
160
,
170
–71

probationary status of on Annapurna expedition,
86

Rébuffat's relationship with,
34
,
49
,
51
–52

return from Annapurna of,
21
,
119
–34,
158