Winter Gatherings (6 page)

If you can, buy beets with the greens still attached, as the perkiness of the leaves indicates freshness. When trimming off the leaves, or any remaining roots at the tip of the beets, don’t trim them flush, and leave an inch or two attached, as this will help staunch the flow of the juices.

Poached Leeks with Creamy Vinaigrette

Makes 4 to 6 servings

One January, I found myself in Paris. One of the many pleasures of that trip (and I can assure you that Paris is just as magical when you are sniffling from the cold as when it is warm) was enjoying leeks vinaigrette at a bistro. Simmer the leeks and they’ll hold their slender shape beautifully. The vinaigrette, with a soupçon of crème fraîche, is the perfect counterpoint to the silky leeks.

12 medium leeks

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons crème fraîche or sour cream

2/3 cup pure olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives

• 1.
  Working with one leek at a time, cut off the dark green top, leaving the white and pale green part intact. Starting about ¼ inch from the root end, slice the leek lengthwise. Rinse well under cold running water, letting the water run between the layers to remove any grit. Transfer to a large bowl of cold water and soak for 10 minutes. Lift the leeks from the water and shake off the excess water.
  
• 2.
  Arrange the leeks, overlapping if necessary, in a large skillet. Add enough lightly salted water to cover. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover. Simmer gently until the leeks are tender, about 20 minutes. They should hold their shape; do not overcook.
  
• 3.
  Using a slotted spoon, carefully transfer the leeks to a platter and let cool. One at a time, gently squeeze the excess water from the leeks and give them a uniform shape. Return the leeks to the platter. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, for at least 1 and up to 12 hours.
  
• 4.
  Whisk the lemon juice and crème fraîche together in a small bowl. Gradually whisk in the oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and whisk again to dissolve the salt. Pour over the chilled leeks, sprinkle with the chives, and serve.
  

MAIN COURSES

Roast Chicken with Radicchio, Currant, and Hazelnut Salad

Roasted Salmon on Spicy Lentils

Cod with Grapefruit, Avocado, and Fennel Salad

San Francisco Crab Cioppino

Cracked Crab with Green Goddess Dip

Rib Roast with Blue Cheese Crust

Roast Eye of Round with Dijon-Caper Sauce

Braised Short Ribs with Dark Beer and Root Vegetables

Sauerbraten

Cider-Brined Roast Pork with Sweet Potatoes and Apples

Baked Ham with Cranberry-Tangerine Glaze

Wine-Braised Sauerkraut and Sausages

Soft Tacos with Chipotle Carnitas

Spanish Panini with Manchego, Jamón Serrano, and Dates

Lamb Shanks with Feta and Olives

Black Bean Chili in Roasted Acorn Squash

Winter Squash Waffles with Maple-Apple Compote

Roast Chicken with Radicchio, Currant, and Hazelnut Salad

Makes 6 servings

The perfect roast chicken has crisp, golden brown skin, juicy flesh, and, in my opinion, very few auxiliary flavors to detract from the chicken itself. Over the years, I have unearthed a few secrets that will help create an irresistible bird, which I have collected and listed in “Tips for a Perfect Roast Chicken” on Chapter 3. In this dish, a vinaigrette is created from the pan juices, which, in turn, is used to dress pleasantly bitter radicchio leaves that are toned down with sweet dried currants. The heat from the dressing and the chicken will lightly wilt the radicchio, which will mellow its flavor even more.

One 6-to 6½-pound chicken

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, divided

2 tablespoons finely minced shallots

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 heads radicchio, cored and torn into bite-size pieces

½ cup (2 ounces) hazelnuts, toasted, skinned, and coarsely chopped

1/3 cup dried currants

• 1.
  Pull the pads of yellow fat from either side of the tail of the chicken. Rinse the chicken and pat dry with paper towels. Let stand at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours.
  
• 2.
  Meanwhile, coarsely chop the fat and place in a small saucepan. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the fat is rendered and only crisp cracklings remain in the pan, about 20 minutes. Strain into a small bowl, discarding the cracklings, and cool the fat. You should have 2 to 3 tablespoons of rendered fat.
  
• 3.
  Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F. Rub the fat all over the chicken. Season the chicken inside and out with the salt and pepper. Place the chicken on its side on a wire rack in a roasting pan. Roast for 20 minutes. Inserting a wooden spoon in the body cavity, turn the chicken on its other side and roast for 20 minutes more. Turn the chicken breast side up and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh, without touching a bone, reads 170°F, about 1 hour longer. Transfer the chicken to a carving board and let stand for 20 minutes before carving. Remove the rack from the pan.
  
• 4.
  Pour the drippings from the pan into a small glass bowl and let stand for 3 minutes. Skim off and discard the clear yellow fat and reserve the brown pan juices. Add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil to the pan and heat over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 1 minute. Add the vinegar and then the remaining ½ cup olive oil. Whisk until well combined, scraping up the browned bits in the bottom of the pan. Remove from the heat.
  
• 5.
  Combine the radicchio, hazelnuts, and currants in a large bowl. Add the warm dressing and toss. Season the salad with salt and pepper. Transfer the salad to a large platter.
  
• 6.
  Carve the chicken. Arrange the chicken over the radicchio salad, and season the chicken lightly with salt and pepper. Serve at once.
  

Note

To toast and peel hazelnuts, spread the hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven until the skins are cracked and the flesh under the skin is beginning to brown, about 12 minutes. Wrap the nuts in a coarse-textured towel and let cool until easy to handle. Rub the nuts in the towel to remove as much skin as possible (you don't need to remove every bit).

TIPS FOR A PERFECT ROAST CHICKEN

• Roast a large bird in order to have leftovers for another meal. Think beyond a cold drumstick for lunch, and consider turning the meat into a salad or casserole.
  
• Don’t discard the carcass from the roast chicken. It can be made into an excellent stock. Saute ¼ cup each chopped onion, celery, and carrot in 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in a large saucepan. Add the carcass, broken up into manageable pieces, and add enough cold water to cover. (If your chicken came with giblets, reserve the neck, heart, and gizzard—but not the liver—and add them to the pot.) Bring to a simmer, skim off any foam from the surface, and add ¼ teaspoon dried thyme and ½ bay leaf. Simmer for a couple of hours, then strain.
  
• The chicken will roast more evenly if allowed to stand at room temperature for an hour or two to lose its chill from the refrigerator. A rinse under lukewarm water will also gently warm up the poultry.
  
• Rendered chicken fat promotes a beautifully browned bird. If the fat has been removed from the tail area of your chicken, substitute 2 tablespoons of softened unsalted butter for the rendered fat. The milk solids in the butter will encourage browning better than olive or vegetable oil.
  
• Turning the bird to expose the skin on all sides to the oven heat also makes a picture-perfect chicken with crackling skin. If you don’t have time to do this, you’ll still have delicious chicken, even if the back skin is a little wan.
  
• Don’t be afraid of the relatively high oven temperature. It will make the chicken splatter, but cleaning the oven is worth the trade-off for a great chicken. You won’t get the same results if you chicken out and reduce the temperature to 350°F.
  

Roasted Salmon on Spicy Lentils

Makes 4 servings

Rich salmon can hold its own against bold seasonings. Here, roasted fillets are served on lentils with a blend of southwestern spices. Roasting lightly caramelizes the top of the salmon to deepen the flavor. Small, dark olive green
lentilles de Puy
have a brighter color than the typical brown lentils, and cook in less time, too. You find them at natural food stores and gourmet shops.

S
PICY
L
ENTILS

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 small onion, chopped

½ cup seeded and finely diced red bell pepper

1 garlic clove, minced

1 teaspoon chili powder

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground coriander

1 cup green French lentils (
lentilles de Puy
), rinsed and sorted over for stones

2 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade, or use canned low-sodium broth