2 tablespoons (30 mL) olive oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
¼ cup (59 mL) minced onion
1 tablespoon (15 mL) capers, chopped
6 ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons (45 mL) tomato paste
½ cup (118 mL) chopped black olives
2 tablespoons (30 mL) minced fresh basil or 1 tablespoon (15 mL) dried
3 tablespoons (45 mL) chopped Italian parsley
1 tablespoon (15 mL) crushed red New Mexican chile
1 cup (236 mL) beef or chicken stock
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1.
In a large, heavy skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic, onion, and capers and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes and sauté for 1 minute. Stir in the tomato paste, olives, basil, parsley, and chile and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to low, add ½ cup (118 mL) of the stock, and stir. Cover and simmer 15 minutes. Stir and add more stock if the mixture starts getting too thick. Simmer, uncovered, for another 15 minutes. The mixture should be slightly thick and chunky.
Salsa all’Arrabiata (Enraged Sauce)
Yield: 3 cups (708 mL)
Heat Scale: Mild
This recipe is from Giuliano Bugialli, as profiled by Nancy Gerlach, who met him in Rome. She commented: “This in an all-purpose sauce that can be used on a variety of pastas. To really ‘enrage’ the sauce, replace the crushed New Mexican chile with chiltepins or piquin chiles.”
3 pounds (1.36 kg) fresh Roma or plum tomatoes, cut in half (or substitute
1 [16-ounce (454 g)]) can peeled Italian tomatoes
3 tablespoons (45 mL) olive oil
2 teaspoons (10 mL) crushed red New Mexican chile
3 large cloves garlic, peeled and minced
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) sugar
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Salt, to taste
2 tablespoons (30 mL) chopped fresh basil or oregano
1.
If using fresh tomatoes, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Place the cut tomatoes side down on a cookie pan and bake for 10 minutes or until they are soft.
2.
Purée the tomatoes in a blender or food processor, transfer them to a saucepan, and bring to a simmer over high heat.
3.
In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the chile and garlic and sauté until the garlic is soft, about 10 minutes.
4.
Add the chile mixture and sugar to the simmering tomatoes. Season with the black pepper and salt and continue to simmer until the sauce thickens.
5.
Remove from the heat and stir in the fresh herbs.
Salsa Amatriciana (Spicy Amatrice Sauce)
Yield: About 6 cups (1.4 L)
Heat Scale: Varies
From the Sabine town of Amatrice comes this simple but great pasta sauce. Traditionally, it is served over bucatini, a spaghetti-like pasta that is hollow, like a straw. It is then sprinkled with grated pecorino romano.
½ cup (118 mL) olive oil
1 pound (454 g) pancetta or smoked bacon, chopped
2 onions, peeled and minced
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
3 dried small, hot red chiles, such as santaka, Thai, or piquin, crushed into a coarse powder
2 (28-ounce [784 g]) cans Italian plum tomatoes, drained, 1 cup (236 mL) juice reserved
Ground cayenne, to taste
Salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1.
In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the pancetta and cook until browned, about 20 minutes. Stir occasionally to brown the pancetta evenly. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Remove and discard all but ½ cup (118 mL) of the remaining fat.
2.
Add the onions and sauté until golden, about 15 minutes. Add the garlic and crushed chiles and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and mash them with a spoon. Increase the heat, add the reserved tomato juice and the pancetta, and boil until thickened, 5 to 7 minutes.
3.
Taste for heat and seasonings and adjust with cayenne, salt, and pepper.
Salsa Fra Diavolo (Running with the Devil Sauce)
Yield: About 2 cups (473 mL)
Heat Scale: Mild
“Running with the devil sauce” is my rough translation of salsa fra diavolo, a pasta sauce redolent with fresh herbs. It can be spread over crusty bread, sprinkled with cheese, and baked. If cooked until quite thick, it makes a great pizza sauce, too.
⅓ cup (79 mL) olive oil
½ large green bell pepper, seeded and chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
½ small onion, minced
2 tablespoons (30 mL) chopped fresh parsley
4 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
3 tablespoons (45 mL) tomato paste
1 teaspoon (5 mL) crushed red New Mexican chile
2 teaspoons (10 mL) minced fresh oregano
1 teaspoon (5 mL) minced fresh thyme
Salt, to taste
1.
Heat the oil in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the bell pepper, garlic, and onion and sauté until the onion softens, 5 to 8 minutes. Lower the heat, stir in the parsley, and simmer for 1 minute. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer over a very low heat for about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Hungarian Hot Paprika Sauce
Yield: 1 cup (236 mL)
Heat Scale: Medium
Although paprika is used more often in stews than in sauces, this sauce was designed as a condiment for fish. Traditionally, it is served over fried fillets of river fish.
2 tablespoons (30 mL) butter
2 tablespoons (30 mL) all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) salt
⅛ teaspoon (.6 mL) freshly ground black pepper
1 cup (236 mL) whole milk
1 teaspoon (5 mL) minced onion
2-3 teaspoons (10-15 mL) hot paprika
1 pinch nutmeg
1.
In a saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour, salt, and pepper and stir constantly until it starts to bubble. Gradually add the milk and stir constantly until the mixture is smooth. Bring the mixture to a boil and continue to stir for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the onion, paprika, and nutmeg to the mixture, stir well for 30 seconds, and serve.
Adzhiga Salsa
Yield: About 2 cups (473 mL)
Heat Scale: Medium
The ingredients of this specialty from Russia are similar to the traditional Mexican pico de gallo salsa, except that celery replaces tomatoes and dill is added. Georgians spread it thickly onto a piece of lavash (Georgian bread) and wolf it down no matter how many chiles are added to it. (Note: This recipe requires advance preparation, as the adzhiga tastes better when it’s served 1 to 3 days after making.)
10 cloves garlic, peeled
2 celery stalks, leaves included, chopped
5 red or green serrano or jalapeño chiles, stems and seeds removed, chopped
2 red bell peppers, stems and seeds removed, chopped
2 cups (473 mL) chopped fresh dill
1½ cups (354 mL) coarsely chopped cilantro
½ cup (118 mL) red wine vinegar
¼ teaspoon (1.25 mL) salt
1.
Combine the garlic, celery, chiles, bell peppers, dill, and cilantro in a food processor. Pulse gently until a coarse paste forms. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and stir in the vinegar and salt. Cover and let stand overnight.
Satsivi Sauce
Yield: About 3 cups (708 mL)
Heat Scale: Medium
This classic Russian hot sauce is unusual because walnuts are added. It is traditionally served with poached chicken or fish dishes, and the stock used is determined accordingly. It can also be served over steamed vegetables.
¼ cup (59 mL) unsalted butter
1 onion, peeled and minced
1 tablespoon (15 mL) all-purpose flour
2 cups (473 mL) rich chicken stock, divided
3 serrano or jalapeño chiles, stems and seeds removed, minced
1 cup (236 mL) finely ground walnuts
1 tablespoon (15 mL) lemon juice
3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
¼ cup (59 mL) minced cilantro
1 scant pinch tarragon
1 scant pinch oregano
1 scant pinch basil
1 scant pinch thyme
1.
In a large saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until soft, about 10 minutes. Add the flour and stir to incorporate. Add 1 cup (236 mL) of the stock and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Add the remaining stock and the remaining ingredients. Bring to a second boil and immediately remove from the heat. Stir well and allow the sauce to cool to room temperature before serving. If it is too thick, add a little more stock.
Zhug (Yemenite Hot Sauce)
Yield: 1½-2 cups (375-473 mL)
Heat Scale: Hot
Popular with the Yemenite Jews in Israel and the Middle East, this hot sauce starts with a paste of garlic and peppers, whatever spices the cook chooses, and cilantro and/or parsley. There are two versions: this green one and a red one that uses red sweet and hot peppers. Tomatoes are sometimes added to tone down the sauce, which can be quite spicy. This quick and easy sauce can be used as a table condiment or as a sauce for grilled fish or meat or for eggs, or it can be added to soups and stews just before serving. It goes especially well with lamb kebabs.
8 serrano chiles, stems removed (or substitute jalapeño chiles)
6 cloves garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
1½ teaspoons (7.5 mL) caraway seeds
1 teaspoon (5 mL) cumin seeds
1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground cardamom
1 teaspoon (5 mL) freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) ground cloves
1 tablespoon (15 mL) lemon juice (fresh preferred)
1 cup (236 mL) chopped fresh cilantro
½ cup (118 mL) chopped fresh parsley
½-¾ cup olive oil (125-177 mL)
Salt, to taste
1.
Place the chiles, garlic, caraway, cumin, cardamom, pepper, cloves, and lemon juice in a blender or food processor and purée to a smooth paste, adding some of the oil if necessary.
2.
Add the cilantro and parsley. While the machine is running slowly, add the oil until a soupy sauce forms. Season with the salt.
West African Pili Pili Sauce
Yield: 2 cups (473 mL)
Heat Scale: Hot
Pili pili, often called piri-piri, is served as a table condiment in West Africa, where it heats up grilled meat, poultry, shrimp, and fish. Nearly any green chile can be used to make this sauce. Some recipes call for the addition of tomatoes or tomato sauce.
1 pound (454 g) serrano or jalapeño chiles, stems and seeds removed, coarsely chopped
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled
Juice of 1 lemon
1.
Place all the ingredients in a food processor. Blend into a paste, gradually adding water until the desired consistency is achieved. Store in a jar in the refrigerator, where it will keep for many weeks.
Palaver Sauce
Yield: 2 cups (473 mL)
Heat Scale: Medium
From Sierra Leone, here is one of the more unusual hot sauces I encountered. Besides palm oil, it is characterized by greens such as cassava and sweet potato leaves; spinach makes an adequate substitute. Some versions of this dish are more of a stew than a sauce, but this one is designed to be served over rice. (Warning: Palm oil is high in saturated fat.)
1 cup (236 mL) red palm oil (found in Asian markets, or substitute peanut oil)
½ cup (118 mL) minced lean beef
1 onion, peeled and chopped
3 jalapeño chiles, stems and seeds removed, minced
2 cups (473 mL) shredded spinach
½ cup (118 mL) smoked fish, such as kippers
1.
In a large skillet, heat the palm oil over high heat. Add the beef and fry until just brown. Remove the beef from the skillet and set aside.
2.
Add the onion and jalapeño to the skillet and cook until soft, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add the spinach and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Return the beef to the skillet, crumble in the fish, and cook for 5 minutes over medium heat, stirring constantly. Add more palm oil if the mixture is too thick.
Sauce Gombo
Yield: About 2 cups (473 mL) Heat Scale: Hot
Gombo means okra in West Africa, and that vegetable is the primary thickening agent of this simple sauce from Ghana. The sauce can be served like a soup or poured over potatoes, plantains, or other starchy tubers.
1 pound (454 g) fresh okra, sliced into rounds
1 cup (236 mL) water
1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground hot chile, such as cayenne
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) salt
1 tomato, coarsely chopped
1.
Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan and cook over medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the okra is tender. Serve the sauce as is or purée it in a blender for a smoother texture.
Ata Dindin (Nigerian Fried Red Pepper Sauce)
Yield: 1½ cups (354 mL)
Heat Scale: Medium
Ata is the Yoruba word for chile pepper, and Nigerian chiles range from the tiny ata wewe to the large ata funfun. This sauce is served as a relish or dip with many West African dishes, particularly grilled meats.
10 dried red New Mexican chiles, stems and seeds removed, soaked in hot water for 1 hour
½ cup (118 mL) peanut oil
1 onion, peeled and chopped
1 (8-ounce [226 mL]) can tomato sauce
1 teaspoon (5 mL) salt
1.
Remove the chiles from the water and purée them in a blender or food processor.
2.
Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, puréed chiles, tomato sauce, and salt. Fry for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly.
Variation
Add 1 chopped bell pepper.
L’Exotic Sauce Dynamite
Yield: 2 cups (473 mL)
Heat Scale: Hot
Here is a typical Madagascar-style sauce that was served at the Restaurant L’Exotic in Montreal. The sauce accompanied most of the entrées at L’Exotic. It can also be added to soups or stews to spice them up.