Variations
For a real thrill, try this with an habanero! To make the traditional Vietnamese sauce for roast beef, nuac cham tuong gung, omit the lime juice and add 2 tablespoons (30 mL) minced fresh ginger.
Lemongrass Curry Sauce
Yield: 4 cups (.95 L)
Heat Scale: Mild
Richard Sterling collected this recipe in Cambodia, where, he said, “There are as many curries as there are cooks. But all true Khmer curries have five constants: lemongrass, garlic, galangal, and coconut milk; the fifth constant is the cooking technique, dictated by the texture of lemongrass and the consistency of coconut milk. This is my personal all-purpose four-cup curry which is based on extensive observation and many trials. To prepare one portion, pour
½
cup [118 mL] of this curry sauce into a shallow vessel or a wok. Add
½
cup [118 mL] of meat or vegetables, bring to a medium boil and cook to desired degree. Try it with frog legs, as the Cambodians do.”
⅓ cup (79 mL) sliced lemongrass
4 cloves garlic, peeled
1 teaspoon (5 mL) dried galangal
1 teaspoon (5 mL) ground turmeric
1 jalapeño chile, seeds and stem removed
3 shallots, peeled
3 kaffir lime leaves (available in Asian markets)
1 pinch salt or shrimp paste
3½ cups (827 mL) coconut milk (made by soaking 4 cups [.95 L] grated coconut in 1 quart [.95 L] of water for an hour, then straining it)
1.
In a food processor, purée together the lemongrass, garlic, galangal, turmeric, jalapeños, and shallots.
2.
Bring the coconut milk to a boil in a saucepan and add the puréed ingredients, lime leaves, and salt or shrimp paste. Boil gently, stirring constantly, for about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring often, for about 30 minutes, or until the lime leaves are tender and the sauce is creamy. Remove the leaves before serving.
Jaew Bong (Laotian Garlic-Shallot Hot Sauce)
Yield: About ½ cup (118 mL)
Heat Scale: Medium to Hot
Although jaew bong translates as “pickled sauce,” that phrase is a misnomer as there is no vinegar in the recipe at all. Like many Southeast Asian sauces, this one is used as a table condiment to add heat to meat and rice dishes.
3 dried red New Mexican chiles, stems removed
2 small, hot, dried red chiles, such as Thai or piquin, stems removed
2 heads garlic, separated into cloves, unpeeled
2 shallots, unpeeled
1 tablespoon (15 mL) minced fresh ginger
¼ teaspoon (1.25 mL) salt
1 tablespoon (15 mL) prepared fish sauce (nam pla)
1.
Place the chiles on a broiler pan and place under a gas broiler, about 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) from the flame. Turn frequently and roast until brittle, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool. Crumble the chiles, removing as many seeds as possible, and set aside. (This can also be done in a sauté pan over high gas or electric heat.)
2.
Place the garlic cloves on a broiler pan and place under the broiler, about 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) from the flame. Roast for about 5 minutes, or until the skins are lightly charred. Remove from the heat and let cool. Repeat the process with the shallots.
3.
Peel the garlic and shallots and coarsely chop them together. Add the crumbled chiles, ginger, salt, and fish sauce and transfer to a blender. Purée to a coarse paste. Remove and add enough warm water to make a thinner paste.
Gado Gado (Spicy Indonesian Peanut Sauce)
Yield: 1 cup (236 mL)
Heat Scale: Hot
This sauce is served over grilled meats, such as sates, or as a sauce for cooked vegetables. You can tone down the spiciness by decreasing the Transplanted Sriracha Sauce, but why bother?
1 tablespoon (15 mL) peanut oil
1 cup (236 mL) sliced onions
1 tablespoon (15 mL) minced garlic
¼ cup (59 mL) crunchy peanut butter
¼ teaspoon (1.25 mL) shrimp paste
1 teaspoon (5 mL) tamarind paste, dissolved in 2 tablespoons (30 mL) boiling water
¼ cup (59 mL) lime juice
2 tablespoons (30 mL) Transplanted Sriracha Sauce (page 94)
2 tablespoons (30 mL) prepared fish sauce (nam pla)
1 tablespoon (15 mL) soy sauce
1.
Heat the oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and garlic and stir-fry until the onions are golden, about five minutes.
2.
Add the peanut butter, shrimp paste, dissolved tamarind paste, and lime juice. Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring constantly to blend well, and immediately remove from heat.
3.
Add the Transplanted Sriracha Sauce, fish sauce, and soy sauce. Stir well.
Katjang Saos (Indonesian Peanut-Chile Sauce)
Yield: 2½ cups (591 mL)
Heat Scale: Varies
Hot and spicy peanut sauce is a standard condiment in Indonesia. This sauce is used not only with sates but as a base for unusual curries and as a dipping sauce. It is traditionally prepared by pounding peanuts into a paste before using. I have simplified the recipe by substituting crunchy peanut butter.
4 green onions, white part only, chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 teaspoon (5 mL) minced fresh ginger
1 (3-inch [7.5 cm]) stalk lemongrass, minced
1 tablespoon (15 mL) peanut oil
1½ cups (354 mL) chicken stock
3 tablespoons (45 mL) crushed red chile, such as santaka (hot) or New
Mexican (mild) or substitute Transplanted Sriracha Sauce (page 94)
1 tablespoon (15 mL) soy sauce
2 teaspoons (10 mL) dark brown sugar
¼ teaspoon (1.25 mL) ground cumin
1 tablespoon (15 mL) lime juice
1 teaspoon (5 mL) prepared prawn paste (blacan)
1 teaspoon (5 mL) tamarind paste
2 cups (473 mL) crunchy peanut butter
Salt, to taste
1.
Sauté the onion, garlic, ginger, and lemongrass in the oil over medium heat for 3 to 4 minutes until the onion is soft and transparent but not browned.
2.
Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and stir in the remaining ingredients. Simmer the sauce, uncovered, for 10 to 15 minutes, until thickened.
Lot Mein See (Hot Sichuan Bean Sauce)
Yield: 2 cups (473 mL)
Heat Scale: Hot
This sauce comes from Deborah Berlin, who notes, “This enticing hot and pungent sauce fires up stir-fry dishes and gives a gourmet twist to old and new recipes.” Use it as a dip for tempura vegetables or egg rolls. It will last for 2 to 3 weeks in the refrigerator.
1 (15¼-ounce [423 g]) can red beans
½ cup (118 mL) water, divided
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) cornstarch
¼ teaspoon (1.25 mL) distilled white vinegar
1 tablespoon (15 mL) vegetable oil
6 fresh or dried small, hot red chiles, such as piquin or santaka, stems and seeds removed, crushed
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
⅛ teaspoon (.6 mL) salt
1.
Drain the beans and purée them in a blender. Set aside.
2.
Mix together 1 tablespoon (15 mL) of the water with the cornstarch and vinegar and set aside.
3.
In a saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the chiles and garlic and sauté until the garlic is browned. Add the cornstarch mixture, puréed beans, salt, and remaining water and stir well. Simmer, covered, for 20 minutes. Uncover and simmer an additional 20 minutes to thicken.
Chinese Chile and Garlic Sauce
Yield: About 3 cups (708 mL)
Heat Scale: Hot
From Pat Chapman comes this “archetypal chile sauce,” which every Chinese restaurant produces on demand. “Most don’t actually make it,” he says, because “time is too pressing, and there are many proprietary brands available.” This recipe makes enough to bottle, and Pat says it can be kept indefinitely in the refrigerator. (Note: This recipe requires advance preparation.)
1 pound (454 g) fresh red chiles, such as jalapeños or serranos, stems and seeds removed, halved lengthwise
1 cup (236 mL) Chinese white rice vinegar
1 teaspoon (5 mL) salt
1 tablespoon (15 mL) garlic powder
2 teaspoons (10 mL) sugar
2 teaspoons (10 mL) cornstarch
1.
In a jar or large bowl, combine the chiles, vinegar, and salt and marinate overnight.
2.
The following day, place the chile mixture in a food processor and pulse into a fine purée.
3.
Add the garlic powder, sugar, cornstarch, and enough water to produce a pourable consistency. Pulse briefly to mix.
4.
Pour the sauce into bottles and refrigerate.
Sichuan Chile Sauce
Yield: About 1¼cup (295 mL)
Heat Scale: Hot
Here is a classic chile sauce from one of the hottest regions—foodwise—in China. Use it to perk up stir-frys.
2 tablespoons (30 mL) vegetable oil
4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 (1-inch [2.5 cm]) piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped
6 fresh red chiles, such as jalapeños, stems and seeds removed, finely chopped
¼ cup (59 mL) Chinese red rice vinegar
1 tablespoon (15 mL) sugar
2 tablespoons (30 mL) catsup
2 tablespoons (30 mL) Chinese yellow rice wine
2 teaspoons (10 mL) salt
1.
In a wok or frying pan, heat the oil over high heat. Add the garlic and ginger and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add the onion and stir-fry for another minute.
2.
Add the chiles and the vinegar and simmer for 10 minutes, adding water if it gets too dry.
3.
Add the sugar, catsup, rice wine, and salt and simmer for 5 more minutes.
4.
Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Transfer the mixture to a food processor or blender and process to a fine purée, adding water as necessary to achieve the desired consistency. Transfer the sauce to bottles and refrigerate.
Yang Yeum Kanjang (Spicy Sesame-Soy Dipping Sauce)
Yield: About ½ cup (118 mL)
Heat Scale: Hot
Perfect for dipping potstickers, this Korean sauce is redolent not only with chile, but with the aroma and flavor of sesame. It can also be used to top stir-fry dishes.
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) sesame oil
½ cup (118 mL) soy sauce
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) toasted sesame seeds, crushed
1 green onion, white part only, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon (15 mL) gochu garu, Korean chile paste, or hot red chile powder
½ teaspoon (2.5 mL) sugar
⅛ teaspoon (.6 mL) white pepper
1.
Combine all ingredients in a jar and shake well. Store in the refrigerator, where it will last for weeks.
Finadene
Yield: 1 cup (236 mL)
Heat Scale: Medium to Hot
This simple sauce from Guam was collected by Janet Go, who comments, “Originally, finadene was made by grating the meat from three or four coconuts, adding a little water, and squeezing the meat through a piece of cheesecloth to produce a thick coconut milk. The milk was boiled, ten finely crumbled hot chiles were added and, when the milk curdled, it was beaten, poured into containers, and refrigerated. This produced a thick, red-hot gravy called finadene. This is today’s simpler, less fiery finadene.” Serve the sauce over grilled meats and seafood.
1 medium onion, peeled and sliced
½ cup (118 mL) soy sauce
4 to 6 fresh red chiles, such as jalapeños or serranos, stems and seeds removed, minced
½ cup (118 mL) vinegar or lemon juice
1.
In a bowl, combine the onions, soy sauce, and chiles. Stir in the vinegar a little at a time, according to taste. The sauce can be stored in a covered jar, refrigerated, indefinitely.
Hawaiian Chile Water
Yield: 2 cups (473 mL)
Heat Scale: Hot
Hawaiian chiles are difficult to find, even in Hawaii. There are no commercial growing operations and the ones grown in backyards are often eaten by birds. Substitute fresh piquins, bird’s eye, or the small Thai prik khee nu chiles.
2 cups (473 mL) water
¼ cup (59 mL) whole fresh red Hawaiian chiles, stems removed
1 teaspoon (5 mL) kosher salt
4 cloves garlic, peeled
1.
In a pot, bring the water to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the rest of the ingredients. Transfer to a blender and purée until smooth. Pour the sauce into a bottle and store it in the refrigerator.
THREE
Dangerous Drinks and Snacks
The concept of adding chile peppers to alcoholic and nonalcoholic beverages is not new. Pertsovka, the Russian vodka with chile peppers, dates back more than 50 years, and the spicy Bloody Mary drink originated in 1920 or 1939, depending upon which story you believe. But these drinks are recent compared with those of the Aztecs, who were adding chile peppers to their hot chocolate millennia ago. I seriously doubt that this practice will ever fade away because more and more people are becoming habituated to chile peppers in all the foods they eat.
Tequila Enchilado (Chilied Tequila)
Yield: 1.06 quarts (1 L)
Heat Scale: Medium
This recipe is a variation on spiced vodkas but with Mexican spices. It can be used in any drink recipe requiring tequila or downed straight. (Note: This recipe requires advance preparation.)
1.06 quarts (1 L) white tequila
10 coriander seeds
10 chiltepins or piquins
10 black peppercorns
2 sprigs cilantro
2 long lime peels
2 tablespoons (30 mL) salt
1 teaspoon (5 mL) chile piquin powder
½ lime
1.
Open the bottle of tequila and add the coriander seeds, chiltepins, peppercorns, cilantro, and lime peels. Close the bottle and refrigerate for at least 4 hours and preferably overnight.