Amy Butler's Style Stitches: 12 Easy Ways to 26 Wonderful Bags (17 page)

BOOK: Amy Butler's Style Stitches: 12 Easy Ways to 26 Wonderful Bags
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• Cut 2 card pocket panels: 6¾″ (17.1 cm) wide × 16″ (40.6 cm) long

• Cut 1 handle: 2″ (5 cm) wide × 10¾″ (27.3 cm) long

For large wristlet:

• Cut 2 flaps

• Cut 1 main panel: 13″ (33 cm) wide × 15″ (38.1 cm) long

• Cut 1 lining panel: 12½″ (31.8 cm) wide × 21½″ (54.6 cm) long

• Cut 2 card pocket panels: 8¾″ (22.2 cm) wide × 24½″ (62.2 cm) long

• Cut 1 handle: 2″ (5 cm) wide × 10¾″ (27.3 cm) long

From the Peltex
For small wristlet:

• Cut 1 flap and then trim ½″ (1.3 cm) off each side edge and 1″ (2.5 cm) off the top straight edge

• Cut 2 front/back pieces: 8″ (20.3 cm) wide × 4½″ (11.4 cm) long

• Cut 2 card pocket pieces: 6¼″ (15.9 cm) wide × 4″ (10.2 cm) long

• Cut 1 bottom panel: 8″ (20.3 cm) wide × 1½″ (3.8 cm) long

For large wristlet:

• Cut 1 flap and then trim ½″ (1.3 cm) off each side edge and 1″ (2.5 cm) off the top straight edge

• Cut 2 front/back pieces: 10″ (25.4 cm) wide × 6″ (15.2 cm) long

• Cut 2 card pocket pieces: 8¼″ (21 cm) wide × 5½″ (14 cm) long

• Cut 1 bottom panel: 10″ (25.4 cm) wide × 1½″ (3.8 cm) long

3
APPLY THE FUSIBLE INTERFACINGS.
Note:
See page 172
for interfacing application tips.

a. On a flat surface, place the first Peltex front/back piece onto the
Wrong
side of the exterior main panel ½″ (1.3 cm) down from the top 11″ (27.9 cm) edge (for small bag) or 13″ (33 cm) edge (for large bag) and 1½″ (3.8 cm) in from each side edge. Place the second front/back piece along the bottom edge of the main panel using the same measurements. There will be a 2″ (5.1 cm) space between the two Peltex pieces at the center of the main panel. Then, center the Peltex bottom panel between the 2 front/back pieces.

b. Place the fusible side of the interfacing main panel onto the Peltex, making sure it doesn’t move. Using a damp pressing cloth,* fuse in place, sealing the edges around the Peltex. Turn the panel over and press it again, making sure there are no puckers. Set aside.

c. Place the
Wrong
side of the lining panel onto the fusible side of the corresponding interfacing. Fuse them together. Repeat to fuse the interfacing to the exterior and lining flaps and handle.

d. On the
Right
side of the first card pocket panel, using your ruler and chalk pencil, measure 4½″ (11.4 cm) (for small bag) or 5½″ (14 cm) (for large bag) down from the top edge along each side edge, and mark. Then, draw a line to connect the marks.

e. Fold the panel,
Wrong
sides together, along the marked line. Gently press a crease along the folded edge, then open the panel.

f. Place the card pocket panel
Wrong
side up. Center the corresponding Peltex piece ½″ (1.3 cm) down from one short edge, leaving ¼″ (0.6 cm) of fabric exposed on each side.

g. Place the fusible side of the corresponding interfacing onto the Peltex and the
Wrong
side of the card pocket panel, making sure not to move the Peltex. Fuse it in place, sealing the edges around the Peltex. Turn the panel over and press it again, making sure there are no puckers.

h. Repeat steps 3d through 3g to fuse the second Peltex piece to the second card pocket panel.

4
MAKE THE EXTERIOR.

a. On the
Right
side of the exterior main panel, mark the placement for the magnetic snap. Measure 5½″ (14 cm) (for small bag) or 6½″ (16.5 cm) (for large bag) across the top edge of the main panel and place a pin to mark the center of the panel. Then, measure 2½″ (6.4 cm) (for small bag) or 4½″ (11.4 cm) (for large bag) down from the center and make a mark.

b. Center the female half of the magnetic snap below the 2½″ (6.4 cm) (for small bag) or 4½″ (11.4 cm) (for large bag) mark and install the snap following the manufacturer’s instructions.

c.
Note: The Peltex pieces are sandwiched between the main panel and the interfacing with a ¼″ (0.6 cm) space between each Peltex piece.
Fold the main panel with the
interfaced
sides together, matching the bottom edges of the first Peltex front/back piece and the edge of the Peltex bottom panel. Edge stitch* across the folded edge, catching only the fabric between the two panels. Backstitch* at each end. Repeat to edge stitch along the bottom edge of the other Peltex piece.

d. Fold the main panel in half,
Right
sides together, matching the top and bottom 11″ (27.9 cm) (for small bag) or 13″ (33 cm) (for large bag) edges. Pin down each of the short side edges that form. Stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam down the pinned edges and backstitch at each end.

e. Make a 2″ (5.1 cm) gusset* at one of the bottom corners of the main panel by matching the side seam with the center of the bottom panel, forming a triangle in the corner. Measure 1″ (2.5 cm) in from the point along the side seam and make a mark. Draw a straight line across the corner at the mark.

f. Stitch along the marked line, creating a gusset. Backstitch at each end. Trim the corner to create a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam allowance*.

g. Repeat steps 4e and 4f to make the gusset on the other bottom corner of the main panel.

h. Turn the exterior
Right
side out, using a turning tool* to gently push out the corners. Press all the seams.

Please set the exterior aside.

Figure 1

5
MAKE THE FLAP.

a. Fold the lining flap in half,
Right
sides together, matching the side edges. Gently press a crease along the folded edge. Open the flap.

b. On the
Right
side of the flap, measure and mark 1″ (2.5 cm) up from the rounded edge on the center.

c. Center the male half of the magnetic snap above the mark, and install the snap.

d. Place the exterior and lining flaps
Right
sides together, matching the edges, and pin them in place. Stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam down both sides and across the bottom. Backstitch at each end.

e. Use your scissors to trim* the corners and clip* V-shapes in the seam allowances every ½″ (1.3 cm) around the curve, making sure not to clip your stitching.

f. Turn the flap
Right
side out. Use a turning tool to gently push out the corners. Press the flap flat.

g. Insert the Peltex flap between the panels through the unstitched top. Place the seam allowances on top of the Peltex on the lining side of the flap. Push it snug up against the seams. Pin it in place.

h. Machine baste* a ¼″ (0.6 cm) seam across the top edges, enclosing the Peltex.

i. Topstitch* ⅛″ (0.3 cm) from the side and curved bottom edges, securing the Peltex. Backstitch at each end.

6
MAKE AND ATTACH THE HANDLE TO THE FLAP.

a. Fold the handle in half lengthwise,
interfaced
sides together, and press a crease along the folded edge. Open the handle.

b. Fold each long edge in to meet the center crease, and press.

c. Fold the handle in half again at the center crease to enclose the raw edges, and press. Pin along the folded edge.

d. Edge stitch down each long edge and backstitch at each end.

e. Fold the handle in half, matching the short ends. Pin the ends together.

f. On the exterior flap, place the end of the handle ½″ (1.3 cm) in from the left side along the top raw edge. Match the edges, pin, and then machine baste them in place.

7
ATTACH THE FLAP TO THE MAIN PANEL.

a. Center the exterior flap onto the
Right
side of the back main panel, matching the raw edges. Pin together.

b. Stitch a ½″ (1.3 cm) seam along the pinned edge. Backstitch at each end. Press the seam allowances toward the main panel.

Please set the exterior of the bag aside.

8
MAKE THE CENTER POCKET.
Note: You will make two card pockets and then attach them to make the center pocket.

a. Fold the first card pocket panel along the crease you made in step 3e with
interfaced
sides together matching the side edges. Place the longer 11½″ (29.2 cm) (for small bag) or 13½″ (34.3 cm) (for large bag) side of the panel
Right
side up.

Figure 2

b. Starting at the first folded edge and using your ruler and chalk pencil, measure and mark down each side edge following these measurements:

For small bag:
2¼″ (5.7 cm), 4″ (10.2 cm), 6¼″ (15.9 cm), and 8″ (20.3 cm). Continue with these additional measurements to make 2 more pockets.

For large bag:
10¼″ (26 cm), 12″ (30.5 cm), 14¼″ (36.2 cm), and 16″ (40.6 cm) Line up each set of marks and draw a line between them.

c. Fold the pocket panel,
Right
sides together, along the 2¼″ (5.7 cm) line and press along the folded edge.

d. Fold the panel back at the 4″ (10.2 cm) line, with
interfaced
sides together. Press along the folded edge.

e. Continue this process, folding the panel,
Right
sides together, along the 6¼″ (15.9 cm) line and then back with the
interfaced
sides together along the 8″ (20.3 cm) line. Continue to fold across the other measurements to make 2 additional pockets for the large bag. Press and pin the panel along each edge.

f. Fold each bottom edge ½″ (1.3 cm) in toward the
interfaced
side, and press. Match the folded edges and pin them together. Machine baste a ¼″ (0.6 cm) seam down both sides to hold the folded compartments in place. You will stitch the bottom edges together once the other side of the card pocket is completed. This makes one side of the center pocket.

For the large bag only,
fold the card pocket panel in half, matching the short sides. Place a pin at the top and bottom of the fold to mark the center of the panel. Draw a line connecting the pins. Starting at the bottom of the pocket, stitch up, following the line to make more compartments for your cards. Backstitch at each end.

g. Repeat steps 8a through 8f to make the other side of the center pocket.

h. Place each panel with the pocket compartments facing out. Match the side and bottom edges and pin them together.

i. Edge stitch across the pinned bottom edges and backstitch at each end.

j. Machine baste a ¼″ (0.6 cm) seam down each side edge to hold the panels together.

Please set the center pocket aside.

9
INSTALL THE ZIPPER ON THE LINING PANEL.

a. On a flat surface, place the lining panel with the
Right
side up. Using your ruler and chalk pencil, measure and mark the following dimensions from the top, down each side edge: 1⅛″ (2.9 cm), 4⅝″ (11.7 cm), and
8⅛″
(20.6 cm). Line up each set of marks and draw a line between them.

b. Measure 2″ (5.1 cm) in from each side along the 1⅛″ (2.9 cm) chalk line and mark.

c. Fold each zipper end piece in half,
Wrong
sides together, matching the 1½″ (3.8 cm) edges, and press along the folded edge.

d. Place the first folded edge of the zipper end piece at the 2″ (5.1 cm) mark, with ⅜″ (1 cm) of the end piece edge hanging below the chalk line. Pin in place. Repeat to attach the second end piece on the right edge.

Figure 3

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