Back to Butter: A Traditional Foods Cookbook - Nourishing Recipes Inspired by Our Ancestors (18 page)

from the sea

Scallops are delicious, “fancy,” and take just minutes to cook. Growing up a vegetarian in landlocked Atlanta, Georgia, I spent my first few carnivorous years hesitant to dive into seafood. But after taking the scallop plunge, I was hooked. Here are a few tips for success: First, don’t overcook them. Second, a hot pan is very, very important; they should release from the pan when they are somewhat firm and bouncy without being hard. And third, avoid crowding the pan. Cook in two batches, if necessary, dividing the oil between each. Try once or twice, and you will have this easy but upscale, entertaining-friendly dish mastered!

FOR PURÉE:

1 tablespoon (15 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

1
/
4
cup (40 g) diced shallot

1 teaspoon minced garlic

2 cups (260 g) peeled and thinly sliced carrots

1
/
2
cup (120 ml) water

1
/
2
teaspoon sea salt, plus more to taste

A generous pinch of cayenne pepper

1
/
2
cup (120 ml) freshly squeezed orange juice

1 tablespoon (14 g) butter

TO MAKE THE PURéE: In a large-size cast-iron skillet over medium-low heat, warm the oil until glistening, then add the shallots. Sweat the shallots for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute, until fragrant.

Add the carrots, water, sea salt and cayenne. Raise the heat to bring the liquid to a boil, then lower the heat to medium-low to maintain a rolling simmer. Cover and cook for 10 minutes, until the carrots are softened. Carefully pour the sauce into a blender. Add the orange juice and blend until creamy. Pour the sauce into a small-size saucepan (you’ll use the cast-iron skillet for the scallops) over low heat and add the butter, stirring until melted. Re-season with sea salt to taste. Keep over low heat while cooking the scallops.

TO MAKE THE SCALLOPS: Wipe the cast-iron skillet with a paper towel. Evenly sprinkle the tops of the scallops with
1
/
4
teaspoon of the sea salt and
1
/
4
teaspoon of the pepper.

Over medium-high heat, heat ghee and garlic until the ghee is very hot but not smoking; the ghee will be glistening and the garlic will be sizzling fairly aggressively.

FOR SCALLOPS:

12 large sea scallops (about 1 pound [454 g]), thoroughly patted dried and brought to room temperature

1
/
2
teaspoon sea salt, divided

1
/
2
teaspoon freshly cracked pepper, divided

3 tablespoons (45 ml) ghee (
page 22
)

1 clove garlic, peeled and smashed

Add the scallops to the hot pan, seasoned side down, and remove and discard the garlic clove, which has done its work by flavoring the ghee. Sauté for 2 minutes, seasoning the tops with the remaining
1
/
4
teaspoon sea salt and
1
/
4
teaspoon pepper.

After 2 minutes, flip the scallops with tongs; they should release easily. Sauté an additional 2 minutes, until firm and slightly opaque, but not hard.

Spread the carrot purée onto 4 plates and top with 3 scallops each. Serve warm.

YIELD: 4 SERVINGS, WITH 1
1
/
2
CUPS (355 ML) carrot purée

Store-bought salmon cakes are often made with bread crumbs, making them off-limits for those with a wheat or gluten allergy. Millet is a welcome grain alternative and works perfectly in these cakes. It can be found in health food stores and even some regular grocery stores. And if you wind up with any leftover cooked grain, it is delicious warmed with butter, cinnamon, berries, honey, and raw milk for breakfast.

FOR DIPPING SAUCE:

1 cup (225 g) Homemade Crème Fraîche (
page 45
)

1
/
4
cup (25 g) thinly sliced scallion, both white and green parts

1
/
4
teaspoon lemon zest

2 tablespoons (30 ml) fresh lemon juice

1
/
4
teaspoon Dijon mustard

1
/
2
teaspoon sea salt

1
/
4
teaspoon black pepper

1
/
2
teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste

FOR SALMON CAKES:

7 tablespoons (98 g) butter, divided

1
/
2
cup (80 g) finely diced red onion

1
/
2
cup (80 g) finely diced fennel

1
/
2
cup (60 g) finely diced celery

1
/
4
cup (15 g) chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 pound (454 g) salmon, skinned and steamed or poached

2 cups (370 g) cooked millet (
page 53
)

1
/
4
cup (32 g) ground flaxseed

1
/
2
cup (55 g) chopped crunchy walnuts (
page 49
)

2 teaspoons sea salt

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon lemon zest

1 tablespoon (11 g) Dijon mustard

3 eggs

TO MAKE THE SAUCE: Combine the sauce ingredients in a small-size bowl, mixing until well blended. Refrigerate until chilled and ready to serve.

TO MAKE THE SALMON CAKES: Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4).

In a large-size cast-iron skillet over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons (28 g) of the butter. Add the onion, fennel, and celery. Sauté for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened. Remove from the heat, stir in the parsley, and set aside to cool for 5 minutes.

Using clean hands, flake the salmon into a large-size bowl, being careful to remove any bones. Set aside.

In a separate bowl, toss the cooked millet with the ground flaxseed until the millet is coated. Add the millet mixture, walnuts, and cooled sautéed vegetables to the salmon, without mixing, and set aside.

In a small-size bowl, whisk together the sea salt, pepper, lemon zest, Dijon mustard, and eggs. Pour over the salmon mixture and gently toss together with a fork to combine. Using 1/3 cup (80 g) measurement, measure out and form 12 salmon cakes, wetting your hands to prevent sticking, if necessary. Set aside.

Line a regular sheet pan with parchment paper. Melt 2 tablespoons (28 g) of the butter and brush evenly onto the parchment paper. Set aside.

In the same large-size cast-iron skillet used for the vegetables (no need to clean it), melt 2 tablespoons (28 g) of the butter over medium heat. Add 6 salmon patties to the pan and sauté for 4 minutes, until the bottoms are lightly browned. Using a spatula and clean fingers (on the side of the cake that’s still cool!), gently flip the cakes, browned side up, onto the buttered sheet pan and set aside. Repeat with the remaining 6 cakes and the remaining 1 tablespoon (14 g) butter. Add those, browned side up, to the sheet pan as well. Bake for 10 minutes.

Serve warm with the chilled sauce on the side.

YIELD: 4 TO 6 SERVINGS, WITH 1 CUP (225 G) SAUCE

RECIPE NOTE

I ask my fishmonger to skin and steam the salmon for me, which makes this a perfect weeknight meal. However, poaching fish at home is easy, too. First remove the skin, then fill a large-size pot halfway with water and 1 tablespoon (18 g) sea salt. Bring the water to barely a simmer; occasional bubbles will float to the surface, but the water will not be bubbly. Add the salmon, maintain a low simmer, and cook for 25 minutes. Remove the fish and drain well in a colander.

Fresh Herb–Crusted Sea Bass with Sourdough Bread Crumbs

Sea bass is a deliciously moist fish that is difficult to overcook. It’s also a decadent and somewhat expensive fish, making it a very special main dish. Sea bass was overfished for years, causing it to be pulled from many sustainably minded restaurants. Now it is strictly regulated, so always look for an MSC (Marine Stewardship Council) certification when purchasing your fish. The second key to this recipe is the homemade sourdough bread crumbs. Store-bought bread crumbs will not substitute because the flavor and texture are unsuitable.

2 tablespoons (30 ml) lemon juice

6 tablespoons (84 g) butter, divided

1
1
/
2
cups (75 g) Sourdough Bread Crumbs (
page 188
)

1
/
4
teaspoon lemon zest

1
/
4
cup (12 g) chopped fresh chives

1
/
4
cup (15 g) chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1/8 teaspoon cayenne

1 tablespoon (10 g) minced garlic

3
/
4
teaspoon sea salt, divided

3
/
4
teaspoon freshly cracked pepper, divided

1 egg, lightly beaten

1
1
/
2
pounds (680 g) sea bass, skinned, deboned and cut into 4 to 8 pieces

YIELD: 4 SERVINGS

Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4). In a 9 x 13-inch (23 x 33 cm) glass baking dish, combine the lemon juice and 3 tablespoons (42 g) of the butter. As the oven preheats, place the dish in the oven to melt the butter, approximately 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside for 5 minutes to cool.

In a medium-size saucepan, melt the remaining 3 tablespoons (42 g) butter and set aside.

In another medium-size bowl, combine the bread crumbs, lemon zest, chives, parsley, cayenne, garlic,
1
/
4
teaspoon of the sea salt, and
1
/
4
teaspoon of the cracked pepper. Toss well with a fork to combine, making sure to break up the lemon zest, which tends to stick together. Pour the egg over the mixture and toss with a fork to combine. Pour the melted butter over the mixture and toss again. This is your topping.

Dredge both sides of each piece of fish in the lemon/butter mixture in the pan and lay the fish prettiest side up in the dish. Sprinkle the remaining
1
/
2
teaspoon sea salt and
1
/
2
teaspoon pepper evenly on the tops of the fish. Generously pile the topping
on each piece of fish, letting it fall to the sides. Sprinkle any extra in the pan alongside the fish.

Bake for 20 minutes. Test with a fork along the side of the fish. The fish should be moist and pull apart in large flakes. If not, return the fish to the oven, baking in 5-minute increments until ready. If the breading becomes too brown, tent the dish loosely with foil. Serve immediately.

RECIPE NOTE

If you didn’t have your fish deboned by your fish monger, here’s how to do it at home: Wash and pat the fish thoroughly dry with a paper towel. Run clean fingers down the fish to feel for the bones. Sea bass bones do not remove easily with tweezers like salmon bones do. Therefore, to remove the bones, cut neatly down both sides of the bones and remove the strip of bone entirely; some flesh may be sacrificed. If the bass started as one long piece, proceed to cut 4 even squares of fish. If your fishmonger cut the fish into 4 pieces (with bone) before purchase, removing the bones will result in 8 smaller pieces of fish. If this is the case, simply serve 2 pieces of fish per person.