Back to Butter: A Traditional Foods Cookbook - Nourishing Recipes Inspired by Our Ancestors (22 page)

My great-grandma Scowden used to make this recipe years ago and it remains one of my mom’s favorites. Like most everything, the dish has evolved—no more refined sugars, fresh pineapple replaces canned, and the sourdough bread crumbs are homemade. If you’re feeling ambitious, try making homemade ketchup and mustard (pages 174 and 177) first!

FOR GLAZE:

1
/
2
cup (100 g) Sucanat (
page 64
)

1 tablespoon (15 ml) apple cider vinegar

1 teaspoon prepared yellow mustard (
page 177
)

1 tablespoon (15 ml) water

1
/
2
tablespoon (7 g) butter

FOR LOAF:

1 pound (454 g) ham, ground (see Note)

1 pound (454 g) ground pork

2 eggs, beaten

1 cup (50 g) Sourdough Bread Crumbs (
page 188
)

2/3 cup (160 ml) milk

2 tablespoons (30 g) ketchup (
page 174
)

1 cup (155 g) diced fresh pineapple

Preheat the oven to 325°F (170°C, or gas mark 3). Have ready a 2-quart (2 L) glass or ceramic ungreased loaf pan.

To make the glaze: In a small-size pot, combine the Sucanat, apple cider vinegar, yellow mustard, and water over medium heat. Whisk well and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the butter, and let melt. Stir to combine and set aside.

To make the loaf: In a medium-size bowl, combine the ham, pork, eggs, bread crumbs, milk, and ketchup. Using clean hands, gently mix to combine. Gently press the mixture into the loaf pan and top with the pineapple, lightly pressing the fruit into the loaf.

Cover with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and increase the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C, or gas mark 4). Pour the prepared glaze over the loaf. Return the pan to the oven and bake for 1 hour, uncovered. When done, the loaf will pull away slightly from the sides of the pan and the topping will be browned and caramelized.

Remove from the oven and let rest for 10 minutes. Using two metal spatulas, lift the entire loaf from the pan. Slice and serve warm.

YIELD: 6 TO 8 SERVINGS

RECIPE NOTE

This is a perfect recipe to use up leftover ham from the holidays. Cut the ham into large chunks and place in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse approximately 25 times, until the meat has reached a uniform crumble.

Wonderful Winter Pot Roast Stew

In this recipe, you will add one whole onion to the pot while it is simmering, only to subsequently remove and discard it, a unique technique that adds unbelievable depth of flavor to this one-pot dish. And though the total cook time of the dish is several hours, the active time is minimal and the result is comfort food at its finest!

2
1
/
2
pounds (1135 g) rump roast

3 teaspoons sea salt, divided

1
1
/
2
teaspoons freshly cracked pepper, divided

1 tablespoon (15 ml) ghee (
page 22
)

2 tablespoons (28 g) butter

3 cups (480 g) medium diced onion

5 cups (1175 ml) homemade beef stock (
page 84
)

1 large whole onion, peeled (about the size of a fist)

10 cloves garlic, peeled

1 tablespoon (9 g) powdered mustard

1 tablespoon (2.5 g) fresh thyme leaves

1 tablespoon (2.5 g) chopped fresh sage

1 tablespoon (15 ml) apple cider vinegar

2 cups (260 g) sliced carrots, 1-inch (2.5 cm) wide

4 red potatoes, scrubbed and quartered

2 cups (300 g) peeled and large diced turnips (about 2 medium)

Preheat the oven to 325°F (170°C, or gas mark 3) and move the racks to the bottom of the oven. Rinse the meat and dry thoroughly with a paper towel. Lay the meat on a plate and sprinkle evenly with 1
1
/
2
teaspoons of the sea salt and 1 teaspoon of the pepper. Drag the meat around the plate to collect any stray seasoning.

In a 6-quart (5.4 L) heavy-bottomed enamel-coated, cast-iron or stainless steel pot over medium-high heat, melt the ghee until glistening. Add the meat to the pan; it will sizzle when it touches the hot ghee. Brown each side for 1
1
/
2
to 2 minutes. Do not move the meat until ready to turn or the meat will stick to the pan (it will release easily when done). While the meat is searing, wash the used plate. When all sides are brown, remove the meat to rest on the clean plate.

Lower the heat to medium and add the butter and chopped onion to the now-empty pan. Sauté for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened. Slowly add 1 cup (235 ml) of the broth, scraping browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the remaining 4 cups (940 ml) broth, whole onion and garlic, mustard, thyme, sage, apple cider vinegar, and remaining 1
1
/
2
teaspoons sea salt and
1
/
2
teaspoon pepper. Cover and bring to a boil, then turn off the heat, uncover, and add the meat back to the pan. Cover and place the pot in the preheated oven.

Roast for 2 hours, then remove from oven and discard the whole onion. Flip the roast over and add the carrots and
potatoes to the broth. Cover and return the pot to the oven. Roast for 30 minutes, then remove from the oven and add the turnips. Cover again and roast for 30 minutes more. When ready, a fork can quite easily pull apart the roast.

Remove from the oven, uncover, and transfer the roast only to a low-sided ceramic bowl. Replace the lid to the pot of vegetables and set aside.

Shred the meat using two forks; you want medium- and large-size chunks that will ladle fairly easily into a bowl. Carefully slide the shredded meat back into the pot of broth and vegetables. Stir gently to combine then return to the oven, uncovered, for an additional 15 minutes. This will slightly thicken the sauce, finish cooking the vegetables, and allow the meat to be thoroughly seasoned by the broth.

Serve family style or ladle into individual bowls. Remember to add a ladle of broth on top of each individual serving.

YIELD: 10 SERVINGS

Meatballs & Mushroom Gravy

Mom used to make this comforting dish with a can of mushroom soup. When filtered through a traditional foods lens, we substitute a simple mushroom gravy, made from bone broth with fresh herbs.

2 eggs

1 pound (454 g) ground beef

1 pound (454 g) ground pork

1 tablespoon (14 g) minced beef heart, optional

1 cup (160 g) small diced yellow onion, divided

4
1
/
2
teaspoons (27 g) sea salt, divided

1 teaspoon freshly cracked pepper, divided

2 tablespoons (30 ml) ghee (
page 22
)

6 tablespoons (84 g) butter, divided

1 pound (454 g) cleaned and destemmed button mushrooms, diced small

1 tablespoon (10 g) minced garlic

2 tablespoons (8 g) chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons (6 g) chopped fresh chives

3
1
/
2
cups (822 ml) homemade beef stock (
page 84
), divided

1
/
2
cup (60 g) fresh-milled, sprouted whole wheat flour (
page 55
)

2 pounds (908 g) red potatoes

3
/
4
cup (180 ml) milk

In large-size mixing bowl, add the eggs and beat with a fork for 30 seconds. Add the beef, pork, beef heart (if using),
1
/
2
cup (80 g) of the onion, 1 teaspoon of the sea salt, and
1
/
4
teaspoon of the pepper. Mix carefully with your fingers; do not overmix, as this creates tough meatballs. Using a 2
1
/
4
-inch (5.7 cm) cookie scoop and/or your hands, shape 16 to 18 meatballs, slightly larger than a golf ball. Place the meatballs on a clean plate.

In a medium-size stockpot over medium-high heat, melt the ghee until glistening. Place half the meatballs into the hot ghee, spacing them out evenly. If the ghee is beginning to brown and sizzle aggressively, turn the heat down to medium. Sauté the meatballs for 2 minutes per side, until nicely browned. When properly browned, the meatballs will turn easily using a spoon, spatula, or tongs. If a meatball will not turn, continue cooking until it does. If it is still sticking after additional cooking, use a kitchen spoon to gently scoop under the meatball and dislodge the meat from the pan. If this happens repeatedly, reduce the heat a bit.

When the meatballs are browned, remove them with tongs to a clean plate. Continue with the second half of the meatballs; no additional ghee will be needed. When finished, add the meatballs to the plate and set aside.

Using the same stockpot (without cleaning) over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons (28 g) of the butter until foaming. Add the mushrooms and remaining
1
/
2
cup (80 g) onion. Using a wooden spoon, scrape the bits of meat from the bottom of the pan as the mushrooms release their moisture. Sauté for 5 minutes, until softened. Add the garlic, parsley, chives,
2 teaspoons (12 g) sea salt and
1
/
2
teaspoon pepper, and sauté for 2 additional minutes. Add 3 cups (705 ml) of the stock, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to maintain a rolling simmer.

While the sauce is simmering, in a small-size jar with a lid, combine the remaining
1
/
2
cup (120 ml) stock and the flour. Cover and shake very well. Slowly pour the flour mixture into the simmering sauce, whisking constantly. Whisk for 1 minute, while the sauce thickens. Carefully, using tongs, add the meatballs back into the pan. Cover, reduce the heat slightly, and gently simmer for 90 minutes.

While the meatballs are simmering, scrub the potatoes (but do not peel), pare away bad spots, and chop into 1-inch (2.5 cm) chunks. In a medium-size pot with a lid, place the potatoes, 1 teaspoon sea salt, and enough water to cover by 2 inches (5 cm). Cover and set aside.

Forty-five minutes before serving, over high heat, bring the potatoes to a boil. Once boiling, uncover and reduce the heat to medium. Boil gently for 30 minutes, until the potatoes can be pierced easily with a fork, then turn off the heat, drain well in a colander, and return immediately to the hot pot. Add the milk, 3 tablespoons (42 g) of the butter, remaining
1
/
2
teaspoon sea salt, and remaining
1
/
4
teaspoon pepper. Return the heat to medium-high and heat until the milk is barely simmering, then remove from the heat. Beat the potatoes slowly with an electric mixer until the butter is melted. The potatoes can be left slightly chunky, if desired. Place in a serving bowl, and top with the remaining 1 tablespoon (14 g) butter, for garnish.