Bon Appetit Desserts (6 page)

USES
: Solid vegetable shortening is often used in combination with butter in crusts. Because it’s more malleable than butter (which contains some milk solids), shortening makes the crust easier to work with and to roll out, preventing the dough from cracking and falling apart. It’s helpful to novice pie makers for that reason. And because it’s all fat, it helps make the crusts flaky. However shortening does not have any flavor, so it’s best used in combination with butter. To measure solid vegetable shortening accurately, pack it firmly into a measuring cup and level it off with a knife. Rinsing the measuring cup with cold water first will make it easier to scrape the shortening from the cup with a rubber spatula.

FIND
: Non-hydrogenated vegetable shortening is available at supermarkets, specialty markets, and natural foods stores. It’s usually found in the aisle where vegetable oils and olive oils are sold; in some markets it’s in the baking aisle.

STORE
: Technically shortening does not need refrigeration after opening, but since it’s usually used chilled for pie crusts, do keep it in the refrigerator. It will keep for at least a year, and will last even longer if stored in the freezer.

WHAT
: Spices are aromatic seasonings derived from the bark, roots, seeds, buds, or berries of plants and trees. Allspice, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and nutmeg are among the most frequently used spices for desserts.

• Allspice
  , a brown berry, is available whole or ground. It’s originally from tropical regions, including Jamaica, South America, and the West Indies, and tastes like a mixture of cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, ginger, and black pepper.
  

• Cardamom
  is a small, pale green pod with small black seeds. It is sold as whole pods, seeds, and ground. Cardamom is native to India and frequently used in Southeast Asian cuisines, Middle Eastern cuisines, and Scandinavian breads and pastries. It has a warm, pungent aroma and flavor. The easiest way to remove the seeds from cardamom pods is to enclose the pods in a resealable plastic bag, then whack them a few times with a skillet, rolling pin, or meat mallet. Remove the husks from the bag, and keep whacking until the seeds are crushed as finely as you like.
  

• Cinnamon
  , the bark of an evergreen tree indigenous to India and Sri Lanka, is sold both in stick form and as a ground powder. However, much of the cinnamon on the market in the United States is actually cassia (also the bark of an evergreen tree), which has a stronger flavor than genuine cinnamon. Sticks of the two types appear quite different. True cinnamon quills consist of paper-thin layers of bark rolled together. Cassia sticks are a single layer of thick, stiff bark. If you prefer the flavor of true cinnamon (some people like cassia’s more assertive character), look for jars labeled Ceylon cinnamon or plastic bags of Mexican cinnamon.
  

• Cloves
  are the dried, unopened flower buds of a tropical evergreen tree. They’re sold whole or ground and have a very pungent flavor. A little goes a long way; using too much has a numbing effect and its flavor will overpower the dish.
  

• Ginger
  is the knobby root of a tropical plant. It is most frequently used fresh, dried and ground, and crystallized (see page 10 for more information).
  

• Nutmeg
  is an oval-shaped seed of a fruit native to East Indonesia. It is sold whole or ground, and has a warm, sweet flavor and aroma. Whole nutmeg can be grated with a Microplane grater or nutmeg grinder, and will have a much more intense flavor than purchased ground nutmeg.
  

USES
: Ground spices are convenient to use, but their flavors deteriorate more quickly than whole spices. Toasting spices changes their flavor dramatically (consider how different a slice of bread tastes when toasted), so if a recipe calls for a spice to be toasted, don’t skip that step—you’ll be shortchanging the dish.

FIND
: All of the spices listed here can be found in the spice aisle.

STORE
: In tightly sealed canisters in a cool, dark cupboard; ground spices will keep for six months to a year; whole spices will keep about twice as long.

WHAT
: Sugar is probably the first ingredient people think of when they think of desserts. It comes in a variety of forms, including the familiar granulated white sugar, powdered (or confectioners’) sugar, raw sugar, and light and dark brown sugar.

USES
: Sugar plays various roles, depending on the kind of sugar being used.

• Granulated sugar
  is highly refined from the juices of sugarcane or sugar beets. It is sold in cubes and in several different textures, from
  superfine
  —which dissolves easily, making it ideal for meringues and for sweetening drinks—to
  coarse
  , which is often colored and used as decoration.
  

• Powdered sugar
  (also known as confectioners’ sugar) is white sugar that’s been ground into a fine powder and mixed with a small amount of cornstarch to help absorb moisture and prevent caking. If powdered sugar is excessively clumpy, sift it before measuring. Because it dissolves easily, it’s good for making icings, frostings, and whipped cream. It is frequently dusted over baked goods as a garnish.
  

• Raw sugar
  is a coarse-grained sugar with a light amber color, sparkly appearance, and sweet flavor with notes of caramel.
  Turbinado sugar
  and
  demerara sugar
  are varieties of raw sugar. Raw sugar is partially refined, but unlike granulated sugar, it retains a bit of molasses residue. Since raw sugar has large sparkly grains, it is often used as a finishing sugar—it is especially pretty sprinkled on scones and pie crusts before baking—and can be substituted for white or brown sugar when used as a garnish. However, it is not always interchangeable with white and brown sugar in recipes that call for a particular sugar.
  

• Brown sugar
  is white sugar mixed with molasses and comes in two main varieties:
  golden brown sugar
  , also called
  light brown sugar
  , and
  dark brown sugar
  , which has a stronger molasses flavor. When measuring brown sugar, always pack it firmly in the measuring cup, unless otherwise specified.
  

FIND
: Granulated, powdered, and brown sugars are all sold in the baking aisle at the supermarket. Raw sugar is available in the baking section of many supermarkets and specialty foods stores.

STORE
: In your cupboard or pantry. Brown sugar is a soft, moist sugar that hardens when exposed to air, so store it in an airtight container at room temperature. If it hardens, enclose it in an airtight container with a damp paper towel or wedge of apple on top and let it stand for a couple of days, or place it in a microwave-safe dish and cover with two damp paper towels, then microwave on high for about 30 seconds.

WHAT
: A starchy thickener derived from the cassava plant.

USES
: Thickens the fruit juices in cobblers, pies, crisps, and other desserts. Don’t use regular tapioca pearls, which are much larger and won’t soften and dissolve properly.

FIND
: In the baking aisle.

STORE
: Can be kept in a cool, dry place for two to three years.

WHAT
: Vanilla adds a sweet perfume and underlying flavor to desserts. It comes in three forms:

• Vanilla beans
  are actually long, thin, dried pods of a tropical orchid; Madagascar and Tahiti produce high-quality vanilla beans. Vanilla beans have an exotic flavor that is more complex than that of vanilla extract. The pods are usually split lengthwise with the point of a knife, exposing the fragrant tiny, black, sticky vanilla seeds (see page 38 for tips on doing this). Typically, the pods are then steeped in a hot liquid or the seeds are scraped out and added to the batters.
  

• Vanilla extract
  is the most commonly used type of vanilla. Vanilla beans are chopped and soaked in an alcohol-water solution, which is then aged for several months. Vanilla extract has a deep brown color, a slightly syrupy consistency, and a rich perfume. Always use pure vanilla extract, as imitation vanilla is inferior in quality and taste. One teaspoon of vanilla extract can be substituted for a 2-inch piece of vanilla bean (or a 1-inch piece of Tahitian vanilla bean). For the best results, add vanilla extract to mixtures that are slightly cooled; heat weakens vanilla extract’s flavor.
  

• Vanilla paste
  is a concentrated form of vanilla extract and includes the pretty flecks of fresh vanilla bean seeds. If you have it on hand, you can use it as a substitute for vanilla beans; 1 tablespoon of vanilla paste is the equivalent of one whole vanilla bean.
  

USES
: Vanilla is extremely versatile and can stand alone in puddings, custards, sauces, ice cream, cakes, and cookies, or be paired with other intense flavors such as chocolate, coffee, and spices.

FIND
: Vanilla beans are available in the spice aisle of most supermarkets and at natural foods stores and specialty foods stores. Look for pods that are plump, pliable, and slightly moist. Vanilla extract is in the spice aisle at the supermarket. Vanilla paste is available at specialty foods stores and online.

STORE
: Wrap vanilla beans in plastic and store in an airtight jar in the refrigerator for up to six months. Vanilla extract and vanilla paste keep indefinitely when stored airtight in a cool, dark place.

WHAT
: Wines, liqueurs, and spirits add sophisticated flavor and aroma to desserts. The following wines, liqueurs, and spirits are used most often in this book.

FORTIFIED WINES

Fortified wines are those that have had brandy or another spirit added to them, either during or after the fermentation process. When the spirit is added during fermentation, it stops the fermentation and leaves more sugar in the wine, resulting in a sweet and strong product.

• Port
  is a sweet, fortified wine. Available varieties include Porto, ruby Port, tawny Port, and vintage Port. Ruby is most frequently used in the recipes in this book; ruby Port has a darker red color and fruitier flavor than tawny Port.
  

• Muscat
  is a sweet wine made from Muscat grapes; it can range in color from white to deep, rich pink, but most of the versions called for in this book will be white (pale gold). Muscat wines are made in many countries and go by different names, includin
  Beaumes-de-Venise
  , a type of fortified Muscat wine from the village of Beaumes-de-Venise, France;
  moscato
  , made in Italy; and
  Essensia
  , a brand of fortified sweet dessert wine made in California from perfumey Orange Muscat grapes.
  

• Marsala
  is an Italian fortified wine. It is commonly available as sweet or fine (dry), and is typically used in tiramisù and zabaglione.
  

• Madeira
  is a Portuguese fortified white wine with an amber color. It is similar to sherry and ranges from sweet to dry.
  

• Sherry
  is a fortified wine. It ranges from dry (fino or manzanilla) to sweet (oloroso; cream, a kind of oloroso sherry; amoroso; or amontillado, which has a nutty flavor).
  

LIQUEURS

Liqueurs are sweetened alcoholic beverages made by adding sugar to distilled alcohol and flavoring it with fruit, nuts, herbs, or spices.

• Grand Marnier
  is a Cognac-based liqueur with an orange flavor. Cointreau or other orange liqueurs can usually be substituted.
  

• Amaretto
  is a liqueur, originally from Italy, with an almond flavor.
  

• Chambord
  is a French liqueur with a black raspberry flavor and a deep ruby color.
  

• Kahlúa
  is a Mexican liqueur with a rich roasted coffee flavor and a dark brown color.
  

• Frangelico
  is a hazelnut-flavored liqueur with a pale golden color.
  

SPIRITS

• Brandy
  is distilled from either wine or another fermented fruit juice. Armagnac is the limousine of brandies. It has more flavor and a smoother texture than any other brandy. Cognac makes the best substitute.
  

• Eau-de-vie
  is a clear brandy or other spirit distilled from fermented wine or fruit juice. Kirsch (made from cherries), framboise (made from raspberries), and poire Williams (made from pears) are popular eaux-de-vies.
  

• Rum
  is distilled from fermented sugarcane. It is available clear (or light), and dark. Most recipes in this book that use rum call for dark rum.
  

• Whiskey
  is distilled from a mash of fermented grains such as corn, rye, and barley. Whisky from Scotland (spelled without an “e”) is called Scotch and is made from a mash of barley. Bourbon is an American whiskey made mostly from a mash of corn. Irish whiskey is made from barley and other grains.
  

USES
: Wines, liqueurs, and spirits can be paired with other ingredients of similar flavor—amaretto with almonds, for example, or Grand Marnier with fresh oranges. Or they may provide the focal point of flavor for a dessert.

FIND
: All of these wines, liqueurs, and spirits can be found at liquor stores or in the liquor aisle of supermarkets and specialty foods stores.

STORE
: In a cool, dry place. Unopened, liqueurs can last indefinitely. Once opened, fortified wines should be used within a few weeks (buy half-bottles if you don’t think you’ll be able to use a whole bottle that quickly). Liqueurs can last up to three years once opened; distilled spirits up to two years.