Deluxe: How Luxury Lost Its Luster (42 page)

She made her way:
Ibid., pp. 19–31.

First she did a test:
Alex Madsen,
Chanel: A Woman of Her Own
(New York: Henry Holt, 1990), p. 135.

Théophile Bader:
Ibid., p. 136.

Throughout the
1920
s:
Stanley Karnow,
Paris in the Fifties
(New York: Random House, 1997), p. 273.

Her first collection:
Wallach,
Chanel
, p. 150.

Even Christian Dior:
Ibid., p. 154.

Together, they do:
Chandler Burr, “The Scent of the Nile,”
New Yorker
, March 14, 2005, p. 78.

In late
2006
:
Brid Costello and Matthew W. Evans, “Givaudan-Quest: Creating a New Number One,”
Women’s Wear Daily
, November 27, 2006, p. 3.

Take Dior’s brief:
Burr, “Scent of the Nile,” p. 78.

“All I see”:
“Fashion Scoops: In the Flesh,”
Women’s Wear Daily
, July 11, 2001, p. 5.

They can be:
Burr, “Scent of the Nile,” p. 87.

When Alain Lorenzo:
Joshua Levine, “Liberté, Fraternité—but to Hell with Egalité!”
Forbes
, June 2, 1997, p. 80.

CHAPTER SIX: IT’S IN THE BAG

Handbags have:
Andrea Lee, “Bag Lady,”
New Yorker
, September 25, 2006, p. 80.

“It’s like you’ve”:
Anna Johnson,
Handbags: The Power of the Purse
(New York: Workman, 2002), p. 54.

I read about:
Reggie Nadelson, “Out of the Box,”
Departures
, May–June, 2002, p. 146.

In September
2005
:
Ben Widdicombe, “Gatecrasher,”
New York Daily News
, September 10, 2005, p. 20.

At the Venice Biennale:
Farid Chenoune,
Carried Away: All About Bags
(Paris: Le Passage Paris—New York Editions, 2004), p. 72.

Jackie Onassis:
Nadelson, “Out of the Box,” p. 143.

Maryvonne Pinault:
Ibid., p. 176.

Carrying into a jury:
Robin Givhan, “Martha’s Moneyed Bag Carries Too Much Baggage,”
Washington Post,
January 22, 2004, p. C1.

Among the more:
Nadelson, “Out of the Box,” p. 146.

In
2003
:
Pascale Renaux, “L’Ange Guardian,”
Numéro,
October 2003, p. 302.

“We are frightened”:
Nadelson, “Out of the Box,” p. 150.

Whereas Gucci Group’s:
Lisa Lockwood, “Polet’s Prescription for Changing Gucci,”
Women’s Wear Daily,
November 16, 2005, p. 45.

In
1995
:
Christopher Dickey, “C’est Chic, C’est French,”
Newsweek International,
March 17, 1997, p. 38.

This persecution:
Nadelson, “Out of the Box,” p. 177.

As he likes:
Dickey, “C’est Chic, C’est French,” p. 38.

Sales were so slow:
Bridget Foley, “Full Galop,”
W,
March 1998, p. 230.

He found the rue:
Helmut Newton,
Autobiography
(New York: Doubleday, 2003), pp. 241–42.

The modern handbag:
Chenoune,
Carried Away,
passim.

“Listen, Diana”:
Diana Vreeland,
D.V.
(New York: Knopf, 1984), p. 89.

It had no monogram:
Johnson,
Handbags,
p. 7.

“We’ve got into the”:
Chenoune,
Carried Away,
p. 32.

In
1986
:
Palmer White,
The Master Touch of Lesage: Embroidery for French Fashion
(Paris: Editions du Chêne, 1987), p. 134.

As Holly Brubach:
Holly Brubach, “In Fashion: Forward Motion,”
New Yorker,
June 25, 1990, p. 77.

It became:
Andrea Lee, “Bag Lady,”
New Yorker,
September 25, 2006, p. 80.

Market sources:
Miles Socha, with contributions by Jennifer Weil, “LVMH Profits Pass $1 Billion,”
Women’s Wear Daily,
March 10, 2005, p. 9.

Between
1994
and
1998
:
David B. Yoffie and Mary Kwak, “Gucci Group N.V. (A),” Harvard Business School, case 9–701–037, September 19, 2000; revised May 10, 2001, p. 11.

That year, Frankfort:
Barbara Woller, “First-Class Coach,”
Journal News,
May 23, 2005, p. 1D.

From
2001
to
2006
:
Claire A. Kent, Mandy Deex, Rachel Whittaker, Angela Moh, and Andy Xie, “Luxury Goods in China: A Long-Term Investment,” Morgan Stanley, February 27, 2004, p. 13.

A brown leather tag:
Alessandra Galloni, Cecilie Rohwedder, and Teri Agins, “Foreign Luxuries: Breaking a Taboo, High Fashion Starts Making Goods Overseas,”
Wall Street Journal,
September 27, 2005, p. A1.

In May
2005
:
Adam Jones, “Prada Ponders Outsourcing to China,”
Financial Times,
May 20, 2005, p. 10.

CHAPTER SEVEN: THE NEEDLE AND THE DAMAGE DONE

It has been used:
Nina Hyde, “Silk, the Queen of Textiles,”
National Geographic,
January 1984, p. 48.

Back in the
1920
s:
Pietra Pietrogrande,
Antico Setificio Fiorentino
(Florence, Italy: Le Lettere, 1999), p. 71.

Back in the factory’s:
Ibid., p. 95.

On some farms:
Hyde, “Silk, the Queen of Textiles,” pp. 14–19.

The Chinese began:
Ibid., pp. 27–30.

One recounts:
Ibid., p. 36.

Another tells:
Pietrogrande,
Antico Setifico Fiorentino,
p. 21.

One of the early centers:
Ibid., pp. 33–43.

In
2004
:
Alessandra Galloni, Cecilie Rohwedder, and Teri Agins, “Foreign Luxuries: Breaking a Taboo, High Fashion Starts Making Goods Overseas,”
Wall Street Journal,
September 27, 2005, p. A1.

One-fourth of Hong Kong’s:
Ted C. Fishman,
China Inc.
(New York: Scribner, 2005), p. 88.

By the mid-
1990
s:
Ibid., p. 89.

In September
2006
:
“In Brief: Actor Appeals to Burberry,”
Women’s Wear Daily,
November 27, 2006, p. 2.

In November:
David Cracknell and Jonathan Leake, “Charles Joins the Burberry Revolt,”
Times
(London), November 26, 2006, p. 4.

Peter Hain:
Samantha Conti, “Burberry to Close Factory,”
Women’s Wear Daily,
January 11, 2007, p. 15.

Today, there are:
“Swatches: Canton Connection,”
Women’s Wear Daily
, January 3, 2006, p. 8.

China’s textiles:
John Zarcostas, “China’s Textile Exports Soar 23.8 Percent,”
Women’s Wear Daily,
January 10, 2006, p. 8.

In late
2005
:
George Wehrfritz, “A River in Reverse,”
Newsweek International,
January 30, 2006, p. 53.

The constant pressure:
John Zarocostas, “Global Labor Study Cites Human Rights Violations,”
Women’s Wear Daily
, October 19, 2005, p. 19.

“Chinese factories”:
Jane Perlez, “Vietnam Arrives as an Economic Player in Asia,”
International Herald Tribune,
June 20, 2006, p. 2.

“China is no longer”:
Luisa Zargani, “China Trains Eye on Italian Firms,”
Women’s Wear Daily,
February 22, 2006, p. 13.

CHAPTER EIGHT: GOING MASS

America Online:
Annie Groer, “The New Gilded Age,”
Washington Post,
August 1, 1999, p. F1.

According to a University:
Juliet B. Schor,
The Overspent American: Why We Want What We Don’t Need
(New York: HarperPerennial, 1999), p. 14.

According to a Roper:
Ibid., p. 16.

Since
1970
:
Michael J. Silverstein and Neil Fiske, with John Butman,
Trading Up: The New American Luxury
(New York: Portfolio, 2003), pp. 25–26.

By
2005
:
Sharon Edelson, “Chasing Big Spenders: Stores Step Up Services for Key Luxe Customers,”
Women’s Wear Daily,
August 1, 2006, p. 1.

Between
1979
and
1995
:
Schor,
Overspent American,
p. 12.

According to a
1997
study:
Ibid., 159.

Between
1990
and
1996
:
Ibid., p. 72.

Yet it wasn’t enough:
Ibid., p. 6.

In
2004
:
“Accessible Luxury—What It Is and Why It’s Working,” Ledbury Research, November 8, 2004.

“When we look”:
David D. Kirkpatrick, “The Luxury Wars,”
New York Magazine,
April 26, 1999, p. 24.

And MGM Mirage:
Sharon Edelson, “Taubman Plans for Big Names at Vegas Center,”
Women’s Wear Daily,
September 21, 2005, p. 5.

“It was jolting”:
Karen Heller, “On Deep Discount, Prada Has Never Looked Worse,”
Philadelphia Inquirer,
January 6, 2006, p. M3.

“The
1980
s”:
Booth Moore, “Outlet for That Energy,”
Los Angeles Times,
September 1, 2005, p. 28.

“I once got home”:
Laura Landro, “Style—Hunting & Gathering: Catwalk Chic on the Cheap,”
Wall Street Journal,
September 17, 2005, p. 11.

But, says Linda Humphers:
Moore, “On Deep Discount,” p. 28.

But the average:
Ibid.

“The winning formula”:
Ibid.

“The luxury industry”:
Vanessa Friedman, “An Online Business Model Dressed to Kill,”
Financial Times,
May 30, 2006, p. 10.

It ran a huge overhead:
Karen Lowry Miller, “Hitting the Wall at Boo,”
Newsweek Atlantic Edition,
July 17, 2000, p. 42.

Analysts believe:
Cathy Horyn, “Point, Click and Strut,”
New York Times
, December 15, 2005, p. 1.

Furthermore, Forrester:
Luca S. Paderni, with Jaap Favier and Manuela Neurauter, “Louis Vuitton Takes Online Luxury Shopping Mainstream,” Forrester Research, November 8, 2005.

The primary culprits:
Lisa Bertagnoli, “To Catch a Thief: Independent Retailers Forgo High Tech Gizmos and Gadgets in Favor of Old-Fashioned Security Measures,”
Women’s Wear Daily,
October 13, 2004, p. 58S.

Luxury’s most famous:
Adam Tschorn, “Hollywood’s Walk of Shame,”
Women’s Wear Daily
, February 24, 2004, p. 34S.

“It’s not normal”:
Guy Trebay, “Shoplifting on a Grand Scale: Luxury Wear Stolen to Order,”
New York Times
, August 8, 2000, p. B1.

In Minnesota:
Schor,
Overspent American,
p. 40.

Andrew McColl:
Trebay, “Shoplifting,” p. B1.

At times, robberies:
Rosemary Feitelberg, “Two Nabbed in Versace Hold-Up; Boston Boutique Site of Armed Robbery,”
Women’s Wear Daily,
May 12, 1997, p. 23.

The pros:
Trebay, “Shoplifting,” p. B1.

“They obviously”:
Greg Lindsay, “Sticky Fingers,”
Women’s Wear Daily,
January 27, 2004, p. 23.

Chavs are:
Rob Walker, “The Good, the Plaid and the Ugly,”
New York Times Magazine
, January 2, 2005, p. 20.

As Kim Hastreiter:
Kim Hastreiter and David Hershkovits,
Twenty Years of Style: The World According to Paper
(New York: Harper Design International, 2004), p. 34.

Logos—particularly:
Teri Agins,
The End of Fashion: How Marketing Changed the Clothing Business Forever
(New York: Quill, 2000), p. 111.

Gianni Versace:
Ibid., p. 139.

“What can we do?”:
Gideon Rachman, “Bubbles and Bling,”
Economist
, Summer 2006, p. 20.

“I view”:
George Rush and Joanna Molloy, “Daily Dish,”
New York Daily News
, June 15, 2006, p. 26.

In
2001
:
Scott, Huver and Mia Kuczinski Dunn,
Inside Rodeo Drive: The Store, the Stars, the Story
(Santa Monica, Calif.: Angel City Press, 2001), p. 34.

CHAPTER NINE: FAUX AMIS

In
1948
:
Stanley Karnow,
Paris in the Fifties
(New York: Random House, 1997), pp. 260–61.

In
1982
:
International Anti-Counterfeiting Coalition, white paper, January 2005, p. 3.

In
2004
:
Ted C. Fishman, “Manufaketure,”
New York Times Magazine,
January 9, 2005, p. 40.

In
2002
:
IACC white paper, p. 20.

Prada CEO:
Robin Progrebin, “Reality Check,”
Connoisseur,
n.d., p. 140.

As Jasper Becker:
Jasper Becker,
The Chinese
(New York: Free Press, 2000), pp. 74–75.

A month later:
Evan Clark, “U.S. Report Calls for Action on Intellectual Property Laws,”
Women’s Wear Daily,
May 2, 2005, p. 16.