Essence and Alchemy (27 page)
Read Essence and Alchemy Online
Authors: Mandy Aftel
CHAPTER 8. PERFUMED WATERS: THE REVERIE OF THE BATH
117
The alchemical symbol
means “sea salt.”
means “sea salt.”118
“In his inmost recesses”:
Gaston Bachelard,
Water and Dreams
(Dallas: Dallas Institute of Humanities and Culture, 1983), p. 6.
Gaston Bachelard,
Water and Dreams
(Dallas: Dallas Institute of Humanities and Culture, 1983), p. 6.
119
“Let the most absent-minded”:
Herman Melville,
Moby
-
Dick
(New York: Library of America, 1991), pp. 26â27.
Herman Melville,
Moby
-
Dick
(New York: Library of America, 1991), pp. 26â27.
120
“I guess I feel about a hot bath”:
Sylvia Plath,
The Bell Jar
(New York: Harper and Row, 1971), p. 22.
Sylvia Plath,
The Bell Jar
(New York: Harper and Row, 1971), p. 22.
121
“I was trembling with cold”:
Colette,
Break of Day
(New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 1961), p. 114.
Colette,
Break of Day
(New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 1961), p. 114.
122
“The necessary thing”:
Rainer Maria Rilke,
Letters to a Young Poet
(New York: W. W. Norton, 1962), p. 46.
Rainer Maria Rilke,
Letters to a Young Poet
(New York: W. W. Norton, 1962), p. 46.
123
“For the soul”:
Bachelard,
Water and Dreams
, p. 104.
Bachelard,
Water and Dreams
, p. 104.
124
a mid
-
nineteenth
-
century Turkish women's bath:
Françoise De Bonneville,
The Book of the Bath
(New York: Rizzoli, 1998), p. 52.
-
nineteenth
-
century Turkish women's bath:
Françoise De Bonneville,
The Book of the Bath
(New York: Rizzoli, 1998), p. 52.
125
a visit to Baden-Baden:
De Bonneville,
The Book of the Bath
, p. 38.
De Bonneville,
The Book of the Bath
, p. 38.
126
“I always experience”:
Bachelard,
Water and Dreams
, p. 7.
Bachelard,
Water and Dreams
, p. 7.
CHAPTER 9. AROMATICS OF THE GODS: PERFUME AND THE SOUL
127
The alchemical symbol
means “spirit.”
means “spirit.”128
Chrism:
Constance Classen,
The Color of Angels
(London: Routledge, 1998), p. 45.
Constance Classen,
The Color of Angels
(London: Routledge, 1998), p. 45.
129
“Throughout the sixteenth”:
Eric Maple,
The Magic of Perfume
(New York: Samuel Weiser, 1973), p. 35.
Eric Maple,
The Magic of Perfume
(New York: Samuel Weiser, 1973), p. 35.
130
“That the human body”:
Annick Le Guérer,
Scent
(New York: Turtle Bay Books, 1992), p. 120.
Annick Le Guérer,
Scent
(New York: Turtle Bay Books, 1992), p. 120.
131
“It also serves”:
Le Guérer,
Scent,
p. 123.
Le Guérer,
Scent,
p. 123.
132
“When the alchemists”:
Carl Jung,
Psychology and Alchemy
(Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1993), p. 274.
Carl Jung,
Psychology and Alchemy
(Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1993), p. 274.
133
a nineteenth-century recipe:
Eleanour Sinclair Rohde,
Rose Recipes from Olden Times
(New York: Dover, 1973), p. 45.
Eleanour Sinclair Rohde,
Rose Recipes from Olden Times
(New York: Dover, 1973), p. 45.
As I got interested in perfume, I began to scout antiquarian book fairs for old books on the subject. Over the years I have accumulated a significant collection, more than two hundred volumes in all, their dates of publication spanning the years 1720 to 2000. Their tones range from the academic to the speculative to the merely decorative, a testament to the staying powerâthe tenacity, if you willâof human fascination with scent and the desire to communicate it in writing. The topic tended to attract the self-taught, the passionate, and the idiosyncratic, and on the page the authors come across as at once learned and naive, often brilliant, occasionally inspired, and sometimes downright lunatic. There is charming and eccentric information to be gleaned from almost all of them.
Some of these books are easy to come by, others scarcer than hens' teeth. Even the rarer ones turn up from time to time at dealers, book fairs, and on the rare-book sites on the Internet.
GENERAL INTRODUCTIONS TO PERFUME
Many of these books rehash the same information. Morris's book is very well written and thorough and is highly recommended. Kaufman's is a large coffee-table
book with beautiful photographs of ingredients in their natural state and a wonderful interview with and essay by the great perfume creator and theorist Edmond Roudnitska. Ellis's and Kennett's books give the broad sweep of perfume's history along with some well-chosen details.
book with beautiful photographs of ingredients in their natural state and a wonderful interview with and essay by the great perfume creator and theorist Edmond Roudnitska. Ellis's and Kennett's books give the broad sweep of perfume's history along with some well-chosen details.
Â
Ellis, Aytoun.
The Essence of Beauty.
London: Secker and Warburg, 1960.
The Essence of Beauty.
London: Secker and Warburg, 1960.
Genders, Roy.
Perfume Through the Ages.
New York: G. P. Putnam's, 1972.
Perfume Through the Ages.
New York: G. P. Putnam's, 1972.
Groom, Nigel.
The Perfume Handbook
. London: Chapman and Hall, 1992.
The Perfume Handbook
. London: Chapman and Hall, 1992.
Jessee, Jill.
Perfume Album
. Huntington, NY: Robert E. Krieger, 1951.
Perfume Album
. Huntington, NY: Robert E. Krieger, 1951.
Kaufman, William I., ed.
Perfume.
New York: Dutton and Co., 1974.
Perfume.
New York: Dutton and Co., 1974.
Kennett, Frances.
History of Perfume.
London: Harrap, 1975.
History of Perfume.
London: Harrap, 1975.
Morris, Edwin T.
Fragrance.
Greenwich, CT: E. T. Morrison and Co., 1984.
Fragrance.
Greenwich, CT: E. T. Morrison and Co., 1984.
Redgrove, H. Stanley.
Scent and All About It
. New York: Chemical Publishing Company, 1928.
Scent and All About It
. New York: Chemical Publishing Company, 1928.
Rovesti, Paolo.
In Search of Perfumes Lost
. Venice: Blow-up, 1980.
In Search of Perfumes Lost
. Venice: Blow-up, 1980.
Sagarin, Edward.
The Science and Art of Perfumery
. New York: Greenberg, 1945.
The Science and Art of Perfumery
. New York: Greenberg, 1945.
Thompson, C.J.S.
The Mystery and Lure of Perfume
. Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott, 1927.
The Mystery and Lure of Perfume
. Philadelphia: J. B. Lippincott, 1927.
Trueman, John.
The Romantic Story of Scent
. London: Aldus Books, 1975.
The Romantic Story of Scent
. London: Aldus Books, 1975.
Verrill, A. Hyatt.
Perfumes and Spices
. Clinton, MA: L. C. Page, 1940.
Perfumes and Spices
. Clinton, MA: L. C. Page, 1940.
ILLUSTRATED GENERAL PERFUME BOOKS
These sumptuous books lap up the extraordinary graphic possibilities inherent in a book on perfume.
Coty
is an extremely beautiful book about a truly original and fascinating man. Annette Green and Linda Dyett's book on perfume jewelry is an inspiration to anyone in search of imaginative ways to package solid perfume.
Jasmine
has beautiful photos of the flower which evoke its rich history in perfumery.
Coty
is an extremely beautiful book about a truly original and fascinating man. Annette Green and Linda Dyett's book on perfume jewelry is an inspiration to anyone in search of imaginative ways to package solid perfume.
Jasmine
has beautiful photos of the flower which evoke its rich history in perfumery.
Â
Barille, Elisabeth.
Coty.
Paris: Editions Assouline, 1997.
Coty.
Paris: Editions Assouline, 1997.
Barille, Elisabeth, and Catherine Laroze.
The Book of Perfume
. Paris: Flammarion, 1995.
The Book of Perfume
. Paris: Flammarion, 1995.
De Bonneville, Françoise.
The Book of the Bath.
New York: Rizzoli, 1998.
The Book of the Bath.
New York: Rizzoli, 1998.
Ettinger, Roseann.
Compacts and Smoking Accessories.
West Chester, PA: Schiffer, 1991.
Compacts and Smoking Accessories.
West Chester, PA: Schiffer, 1991.
Grasse, Marie-Christine.
Jasmine.
Grasse: Parkstone Publishers, 1996.
Jasmine.
Grasse: Parkstone Publishers, 1996.
Green, Annette, and Linda Dyett.
Secrets of Aromatic Jewelry.
Paris: Flammarion, 1998.
Secrets of Aromatic Jewelry.
Paris: Flammarion, 1998.
Haarmann and Reimer.
The H and R Fragrance Guide to Feminine and Masculine Notes.
Hamburg: Gloss Verlag, 1991.
The H and R Fragrance Guide to Feminine and Masculine Notes.
Hamburg: Gloss Verlag, 1991.
Heal, Ambrose.
London Tradesmen's Cards of the Seventeenth Century.
New York: Dover, 1968.
London Tradesmen's Cards of the Seventeenth Century.
New York: Dover, 1968.
âââ.
The Signboards of Old London Shops.
New York: Benjamin Blom, 1972.
The Signboards of Old London Shops.
New York: Benjamin Blom, 1972.
Irvine, Susan.
Perfume: The Creation and Allure of Classic Fragrance.
New York: Crescent, 1995.
Perfume: The Creation and Allure of Classic Fragrance.
New York: Crescent, 1995.
Müller, Julia.
The H and R Book of Perfume.
Hamburg: Gloss Verlag, 1992.
The H and R Book of Perfume.
Hamburg: Gloss Verlag, 1992.
Newman, Cathy.
Perfume: The Art and Science of Scent.
Washington, D.C.: National Geographic Society, 1998.
Perfume: The Art and Science of Scent.
Washington, D.C.: National Geographic Society, 1998.
Pavia, Fabienne.
The World of Perfume.
New York: Knickerbocker Press, 1995.
The World of Perfume.
New York: Knickerbocker Press, 1995.
Poltarnees, Walleran.
Design in the Service of Beauty
. Seattle: Blue Lantern, 1994.
Design in the Service of Beauty
. Seattle: Blue Lantern, 1994.
CLASSICS
If you choose to study natural perfumery seriously, these books will be your primers. Arctander is a fluent writer with definite opinions about perfume ingredients and an original, descriptive vocabulary; no one rivals his ability to communicate the nuances of smell. His book is quite expensive but still in print; it is worth checking out used-book dealers and Web sites for a used copy. Clifford's is a rather odd but charming book published by a Boston pharmacy in the late nineteenth century. It is a discussion of perfume ingredients wrapped around the story of an imaginary adventurer, with advertisements for remedies and perfumes between the chapters. Eugene Rimmel was a London perfumer at the turn of the century, and his book is filled with woodcuts illustrating perfumes and also very stylized hairdos. (He must have been a frustrated hairdresser.) His book and that of Piesse, another perfumer, are the cornerstones upon which all other perfume books have built their information.
Â
Arctander, Steffen.
Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin.
Elizabeth, NJ: Self-published, 1960.
Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin.
Elizabeth, NJ: Self-published, 1960.
Clifford, F. S.
A Romance of Perfume Lands, or the Search for Capt. Jacob Cole.
Boston: Clifford, 1881.
A Romance of Perfume Lands, or the Search for Capt. Jacob Cole.
Boston: Clifford, 1881.
Franklin, Benjamin.
On Perfumes.
New York: At the Sign of the Blue-Behinded Ape, 1929.
On Perfumes.
New York: At the Sign of the Blue-Behinded Ape, 1929.
Lillie, Charles.
The British Perfumer.
London: W. Seaman, 1822.
The British Perfumer.
London: W. Seaman, 1822.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus.
The Art of Perfumery
. Philadelphia: Lindsay and Blakiston, 1867.
The Art of Perfumery
. Philadelphia: Lindsay and Blakiston, 1867.
Poucher, William A.
Perfumes and Cosmetics
. London: Chapman and Hall, 1923.
Perfumes and Cosmetics
. London: Chapman and Hall, 1923.
Rimmel, Eugene.
The Book of Perfumes
. London: Chapman and Hall, 1865.
The Book of Perfumes
. London: Chapman and Hall, 1865.
Schimmel and Co.
Semi-Annual Reports.
Miltitz, Germany: Schimmel and Company, biannually 1887â1915.
Semi-Annual Reports.
Miltitz, Germany: Schimmel and Company, biannually 1887â1915.
PERFUME IN ANTIQUITY
The literature on ancient perfumery opens a very personal window on the rituals and pleasures of life in ancient times.
The Fragrant Past
gives details of Cleopatra's perfume workshop from archaeological excavations.
Sacred Luxuries
is a meticulously researched book that conveys the enormous role of perfume in the religious and domestic life of ancient Egypt through its well-written text and numerous beautiful photographs.
The Fragrant Past
gives details of Cleopatra's perfume workshop from archaeological excavations.
Sacred Luxuries
is a meticulously researched book that conveys the enormous role of perfume in the religious and domestic life of ancient Egypt through its well-written text and numerous beautiful photographs.
Â
Dayagi-Menndels, Michal.
Perfumes and Cosmetics in the Ancient World
. Jerusalem: The Israel Museum, 1989.
Perfumes and Cosmetics in the Ancient World
. Jerusalem: The Israel Museum, 1989.
Donato, Giuseppe, and Monique Seefried.
The Fragrant Past: Perfumes of Cleopatra and Julius Caesar.
Atlanta: Emory University Museum of Art and Archaeology, 1989.
The Fragrant Past: Perfumes of Cleopatra and Julius Caesar.
Atlanta: Emory University Museum of Art and Archaeology, 1989.
Groom, Nigel.
Frankincense and Myrrh.
London: Longman Group Limited, 1981.
Frankincense and Myrrh.
London: Longman Group Limited, 1981.
Manniche, Lisa.
Sacred Luxuries: Fragrance, Aromatherapy, and Cosmetics in Ancient Egypt
. Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press, 1999.
Sacred Luxuries: Fragrance, Aromatherapy, and Cosmetics in Ancient Egypt
. Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press, 1999.
Nostradamus.
The Elixirs of Nostradamus
. Edited by Knut Boeser. Wakerfield, RI: Moyer Bell, 1996.
The Elixirs of Nostradamus
. Edited by Knut Boeser. Wakerfield, RI: Moyer Bell, 1996.
CULTURAL HISTORY
This category holds an embarrassment of riches.
The Foul and the Fragrant
is one of my favorite books for the extraordinary way it weaves scent into the social history of nineteenth-century France. Corbin is a magnificent writer and thinker, able to articulate with vigor and artistry the cultural issues surrounding scent.
Aroma
is another highly recommended book for its intelligent evocation
of the role of fragrance in many cultures throughout history.
The Scented Ape
is a marvelous study of the biology and culture of human odor.
The Foul and the Fragrant
is one of my favorite books for the extraordinary way it weaves scent into the social history of nineteenth-century France. Corbin is a magnificent writer and thinker, able to articulate with vigor and artistry the cultural issues surrounding scent.
Aroma
is another highly recommended book for its intelligent evocation
of the role of fragrance in many cultures throughout history.
The Scented Ape
is a marvelous study of the biology and culture of human odor.
Â
Classen, Constance, David Howes, and Anthony Synnott.
Aroma
. London: Routledge, 1994.
Aroma
. London: Routledge, 1994.
Corbin, Alain.
The Foul and the Fragrant
. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1986.
The Foul and the Fragrant
. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 1986.
Dorland, Gabrielle J.
Scents Appeal.
Mendham, NJ: Wayne Dorland Company, 1993.
Scents Appeal.
Mendham, NJ: Wayne Dorland Company, 1993.
Dragoco Reports
. Totowa, NJ: Dragoco Inc., 1994â99.
. Totowa, NJ: Dragoco Inc., 1994â99.
Le Guérer, Annick.
Scent.
New York: Turtle Bay Books, 1992.
Scent.
New York: Turtle Bay Books, 1992.
Maple, Eric.
The Magic of Perfume.
New York: Samuel Weiser, 1973.
The Magic of Perfume.
New York: Samuel Weiser, 1973.
Rindisbacher, Hans J.
The Smell of Books
. Ann Arbor, MI: University of Michigan Press, 1992.
The Smell of Books
. Ann Arbor, MI: University of Michigan Press, 1992.
Stoddart, D. Michael.
The Scented Ape.
Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1990.
The Scented Ape.
Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1990.
ALCHEMY
Many, many books on alchemy have been published over the years. I have included only those that discuss the parallel processes of psychic transformation. Another great resource for exploring alchemy is the Web site run by Adam McLean, which can by found at
www.levity.com/alchemy
. Haeffner's and Gilchrist's books give a basic introduction to alchemical concepts, and Paracelsus's writings are a good foundation for understanding the deep philosophy of alchemy. An interesting side note: both Redgrove and Thompson wrote introductory books on perfumery as well as on alchemy in the 1920s and 1930s.
www.levity.com/alchemy
. Haeffner's and Gilchrist's books give a basic introduction to alchemical concepts, and Paracelsus's writings are a good foundation for understanding the deep philosophy of alchemy. An interesting side note: both Redgrove and Thompson wrote introductory books on perfumery as well as on alchemy in the 1920s and 1930s.
Â
Abraham, Lyndy.
A Dictionary of Alchemical Imagery.
Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1998.
A Dictionary of Alchemical Imagery.
Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1998.
Albertus, Frater.
Alchemist's Handbook.
York Beach, ME: Samuel Weiser, 1974.
Alchemist's Handbook.
York Beach, ME: Samuel Weiser, 1974.
Burckhardt, Titus.
Alchemy.
Dorset, England: Element Books, 1987.
Alchemy.
Dorset, England: Element Books, 1987.
Edinger, Edward F.
The Anatomy of the Psyche.
La Salle, IL: Open Court, 1985.
The Anatomy of the Psyche.
La Salle, IL: Open Court, 1985.
Fabricus, Johannes.
Alchemy.
London: Diamond Books, 1976.
Alchemy.
London: Diamond Books, 1976.
Ficino, Marsilio.
The Book of Life
. Woodstock, CT: Spring Publications, 1996.
The Book of Life
. Woodstock, CT: Spring Publications, 1996.
Forbes, R. J.
A Short History of the Art of Distillation
. Boston: E. J. Brill, 1970.
A Short History of the Art of Distillation
. Boston: E. J. Brill, 1970.
Gilchrist, Cherry.
The Elements of Alchemy.
London: Element, 1991.
The Elements of Alchemy.
London: Element, 1991.
Haeffner, Mark.
Dictionary of Alchemy.
London: Aquarian, 1991.
Dictionary of Alchemy.
London: Aquarian, 1991.
Jung, Carl.
Mysterium Coniunctionis.
Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1989.
Mysterium Coniunctionis.
Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1989.
âââ.
Psychology and Alchemy.
Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1993.
Psychology and Alchemy.
Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1993.
Junius, Manfred M.
The Practical Handbook of Plant Alchemy.
Rochester, VT: Healing Arts Press, 1993.
The Practical Handbook of Plant Alchemy.
Rochester, VT: Healing Arts Press, 1993.
Miller, Richard, and Iona Miller.
The Modern Alchemist.
Grand Rapids, MI: Phanes Press, 1994.
The Modern Alchemist.
Grand Rapids, MI: Phanes Press, 1994.
Paracelsus.
Selected Writings.
Edited by Jolande Jacobi. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1988.
Selected Writings.
Edited by Jolande Jacobi. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1988.
Pernety, Antoine-Joseph.
An Alchemical Treatise on the Great Art
. York Beach, ME: Samuel Weiser, 1995.
An Alchemical Treatise on the Great Art
. York Beach, ME: Samuel Weiser, 1995.
Ramsey, Jay.
Alchemy.
London: Thorsons, 1997.
Alchemy.
London: Thorsons, 1997.
Redgrove, H. Stanley.
Alchemy: Ancient and Modern
. London: William Rider, 1922.
Alchemy: Ancient and Modern
. London: William Rider, 1922.
Rulandus, Martinus.
A Lexicon of Alchemy.
1612. Kila, MT: Kessinger, Reprint, 1999.
A Lexicon of Alchemy.
1612. Kila, MT: Kessinger, Reprint, 1999.
Schwartz-Salant, Nathan.
The Mystery of Human Relationship.
London: Routledge, 1998.
The Mystery of Human Relationship.
London: Routledge, 1998.
Taylor, F. Sherwood.
The Alchemists.
New York: Barnes and Noble, 1992.
The Alchemists.
New York: Barnes and Noble, 1992.
Thompson, C.J.S.
The Lure and Romance of Alchemy.
London: Harrap, 1932.
The Lure and Romance of Alchemy.
London: Harrap, 1932.
Wehr, Gerhard.
The Mystical Marriage.
Northamptonshire, England: Aquarian Press, 1990.
The Mystical Marriage.
Northamptonshire, England: Aquarian Press, 1990.
ILLUSTRATED BOOKS ON ALCHEMY
The illustrated books on alchemy are a feast for the eyes, as nothing can convey the magic and majesty of alchemy better than its symbols and emblems. My favorite is Alexander Roob's
Alchemy and Mysticism
; although its many illustrations are not explained, they induce a meditative state in which one can pleasurably lose oneself for hours. Another beauty is Stanislas de Rola's
The Golden Game.
Alchemy and Mysticism
; although its many illustrations are not explained, they induce a meditative state in which one can pleasurably lose oneself for hours. Another beauty is Stanislas de Rola's
The Golden Game.
Â
Burland, C. A.
The Arts of the Alchemists.
New York: Macmillan, 1967.
The Arts of the Alchemists.
New York: Macmillan, 1967.
de Pascalis, Andrea.
Alchemy: The Golden Art
. Rome: Gremese International, 1995.
Alchemy: The Golden Art
. Rome: Gremese International, 1995.
de Rola, Stanislas Klossowski.
Alchemy: The Secret Art
. London: Thames and Hudson, 1977.
Alchemy: The Secret Art
. London: Thames and Hudson, 1977.
âââ.
The Golden Game.
London: Thames and Hudson, 1988.
The Golden Game.
London: Thames and Hudson, 1988.
Fabricus, Johannes.
Alchemy.
London: Diamond Books, 1976.
Alchemy.
London: Diamond Books, 1976.
Roob, Alexander.
Alchemy and Mysticism
. Cologne: Taschen, 1997.
Alchemy and Mysticism
. Cologne: Taschen, 1997.
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