How to Sew a Button: And Other Nifty Things Your Grandmother Knew (14 page)

Step 6:
Once you’ve transversed the hole in one direction, rotate your sock by a quarter turn and weave over and under your original stitches until the hole (and the ½-inch ring around it) is patched in a basket weave.

Step 7:
Snip off the end of the yarn (no knots under your tootsies!), right your sock, slip it on, wiggle your toes, and imagine a little tinkling sound. They’re so, so happy right now!

• For easier threading, hold the needle in your right hand, wrap one end of the yarn around the eye of the needle, and pinch the ends of the yarn together, holding the yarn taut with your left forefinger and thumb. Slide out the needle with your right hand, press the eye over the pinched yarn in your left hand, and pull through. Voilà!
  

• You can even go a little crazy by using one color of thread to stitch in one direction and another to stitch in the other. Ponder that magnificence for a minute or two!
  

• For lighter-weight socks, use embroidery thread rather than yarn.
  

Step 1:
Drape your scarf around your neck, pulling both ends even.

Step 2:
Make a simple knot. Cross one end over the other, pull it up through the neck hole, and let it hang so it drapes nicely. Yes, it’s easy, but sometimes less is more.

Step 1:
Drape your scarf around your neck, leaving the left side about a foot longer than the right.

Step 2:
Reaching across your body with your right hand, grab the longer, left side of the scarf, loop it around your neck, and drape it across the right tail. Repeat, for added warmth.

Step 1:
Fold your scarf in half lengthwise and drape it around your neck.

Step 2:
Pull the loose ends through the loop on the other side. Ooh-la-la!

• Use a scarf to add warmth
  and
  texture to any outfit. Try pairing a wooly number with a sleek, leather jacket or a silk one with a woven coat.
  

Step 1:
Find a cute, old pillowcase that you no longer use (preferably one without drool stains or a Scooby-Doo pattern), and cut it in half width-wise. The open-ended side will serve as the body of your apron. Set it aside.

Step 2:
Lay the close-ended half of your pillowcase flat and cut it in half again in the same direction. You’ll end up with two more pieces: one closed at the end and one open on both sides. Set aside the close-ended piece. You can use it later to make pockets, if you’d like, or just to dust around your house.

Step 3:
Lay the open-ended piece flat, and cut it in half once more in the same direction. You’ll end up with two skinny loops. Snip each along one short seam, so you’re left with two really long, thin strips of material. They’ll be your apron ties.

Step 4:
Match up your apron tie strips, right side to right side, and sew one short end together with a double-threaded needle to make one super-long tie. Here’s how to do a simple (but strong) back stitch: Push your needle down through one side of the fabric
and bring it back through the front a few millimeters ahead. Push your needle back down through your first hole and push it back through the front a few millimeters ahead of your second stitch. Press your needle down through your second stitch and back through the front a few millimeters ahead of your third, and repeat, leapfrogging your way along. Once you get to the end, make a couple of stitches in the same spot, pass your needle through the loop of thread, and snip.

Step 5:
Lay your now super-long apron tie flat, right side down, and center on it your apron’s body, or the open-ended half of the pillowcase. The raw-cut end of your apron should be on the tie and your bordered (or nicely sewn) end should be on the bottom.

Step 6:
Fold the tie in half over the edge of the apron and, tucking the raw edges underneath, pin it in place. Continue folding, tucking, and pinning the entire length of the apron tie and, starting at one end, sew it together with a double-threaded needle using the same back stitch method. Don’t forget to sew the tie ends closed, too! If you’re feeling ambitious, run a back stitch along the closed side of the apron tie for a more finished look.

Step 7:
Try it on, and get inspired! Now is the perfect time to bake a pie! Hmm, funny how that’s
always
the case.

• For a longer apron, simply adjust your cut in step 1 so the open-ended side of the pillowcase is your desired apron length.
  

• If you’d like to add pockets, cut off the corners of the close-ended piece of the pillowcase you set aside in step 2. Tuck, pin, and sew the raw edges together. Then pin the pockets to your apron and sew on three sides, leaving the top open. If you want
  to get super fancy, use leftover material to make flaps or just add a colorful button on top of each pocket.
  

• No old pillowcases? Then improvise. You can make aprons from almost anything, including old dish towels, sheets, or tablecloths. Be creative!
  

Step 1:
Round up your supplies: a needle and thread, scissors, a ruler, and an iron, which you might as well turn on now. Also, choose some material to use as a patch. Decide whether you want it to blend in or make a statement. If you’re an earth child, choose floral material. If you’re a punk rocker, try zebra print. If you’re a Journey fan, skip the patch altogether.

Step 2:
Measure your hole, add an inch to each side, and then measure and cut your patch, using that larger magic number. So, for example, if your hole is 2 inches by 2 inches, cut a 3-inch by 3-inch patch.

Step 3:
Lay your patch, facedown, on your ironing board (or on a thick towel on a table or floor). Fold each edge inward by ¼ inch. (If you have a seam gauge handy, it’ll make measuring easier.) Then iron in the crease to make nice edges.

Step 4:
Lay your patch on top of your hole, and fasten it in place with straight pins, placed parallel to the patch’s edge.

Step 5:
Measure two arm’s lengths or so of thread, pass it through your needle, even up the ends, and tie them off together in a knot. Say, “Oh, not again!” and then, yes, knot again. Snip the excess.

Step 6:
Place your hand inside the garment—say, the leg of your pants or arm of your jacket—so you don’t accidentally go through the other side and sew it closed. Press your needle up from underneath the corner of your patch (not through your clothes) and pull it up and through to hide your knot.

Step 7:
Just like you did when you were hemming, now pass your needle through a few threads of your garment, as close to the patch’s edge as possible, and then up through the bottom of the patch, making a stitch about every ¼ inch.

Step 8:
After every third completed stitch, lock your work by passing your needle and thread once more through the patch only before continuing. (That way, if your patch catches on something, it’ll be less likely to come completely loose.)

Step 9:
On the final stitch, pass your needle through the resulting loop of thread before pulling it tight. Repeat three times and snip. You’re good to go!

• The best patches are those of similar density and texture to the fabric you’re repairing. This probably doesn’t need to be said, but just for good measure: Unless you’re in a total jam, don’t, say, sew a denim patch onto wool pants or a dainty silk patch onto jeans.
  

• Choose a thread to match your patch for best camouflaging.
  

• If you have a piece of fabric you love and can’t seem to part with, save it for a patch!