India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (264 page)

India’s Ancient Sex Manual

Khajuraho’s shops are filled with an endless variety of versions of the Kama Sutra, an ancient precursor of modern-day do-it-yourself sex manuals. With information about everything from “increasing the size of the male organ” to the benefits of “slaps and screams” and “bites and scratches,” the ancient treatise on sensory pleasures—recorded by the scribe Vatsyayana from oral accounts sometime between the 1st and 6th century
A.D
.—remains the most famous Indian text in the world. The first English translation was published in 1883 by the Victorian adventurer Richard Burton, who adapted the text in order to dodge charges of obscenity; among other confusing details, he used the Sanskrit words lingam and yoni to denote the sexual organs. Meanwhile, the debate around the purpose of the erotic temple carvings continues: The most likely theory, and one accepted by many scholars, is that worshippers were meant to leave all sexual desires at the door. The temple is a representation of the life of an ordinary man; the erotics are concentrated on the lower levels of sculptures, and as you go higher, they turn from sexual to sensual and ultimately to sublime in a spiritual sense, in effect symbolizing man’s walk towards the divine. Another interpretation is that the images are “manifestations of tantric practices,” which is why these temples were known as Yogini temples, where images of exotic sexual positions possessed the power to ward off the evil eye. Yet another theory—this one considered total hokum by those in the know, and best discarded (along with the guide who might pander it) with contempt—suggests that the erotica served to educate young men who as boys lived in hermitages, obeying the Hindu law of being “brahmacharis” until they attained manhood when studying the sculptures—and the earthly passions they depicted—prepared them for the worldly role of husband.

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE & AWAY
By Air
It’s most convenient to fly in on your way to or from Varanasi (a mere 35-min. hop), on
Jet Airways’
or Kingfisher. You can then continue on to Delhi or Mumbai, or Varanasi, the following day. Note that you should stay 2 nights if you really want to explore the temples thoroughly or visit the nearby Panna National Park. Daily Jet Airways flights leave Delhi at 10:40am and take off from Varanasi at 12:20pm, arriving in Khajuraho by 1pm. During the high season (winter), these are usually pretty full of package tour groups, so you’ll need to book well in advance; by April, however, the planes are quite empty. Khajuraho’s airport is 3km (2 miles) from the town center; taxis operate according to very strict fixed rates.

By Train & Road
Khajuraho finally has its very own railway station: Catch the
UP Sampark Kranti
which departs from Delhi (Nizamuddin) at 12:35pm and reaches Khajuraho the next day at 7:50am (only Tues, Fri, and Sun; make sure to book a 3 AC coach or you’ll be delinked at an earlier station). On any other day, if you’re traveling by train from Delhi or Chennai, you will disembark at Jhansi (175km/109 miles from Khajuraho). From New Delhi, catch the
Bhopal Shatabdi,
which leaves the capital’s Nizamuddin Station at 6:15am and pulls in at Jhansi at 11:03am. From here, MPSRTC runs a bus service from Jhansi to Khajuraho, scheduled to meet the train from Delhi (around Rs 105—not recommended as the buses are in terrible condition), or you can catch a taxi (Rs 3,000) to Khajuraho (4 hr.). You can also rent a car and driver for a few days if you have plans to see more of the region—note that Orchha (20km/12 miles from Jhansi) is definitely worth a stop en route to Khajuraho (Orchha is discussed later in the chapter); try to spend the night if you have time. If you’re traveling by train from Mumbai, Kolkata, or Varanasi, you will arrive at Satna, which is 117km (73 miles) or 3 hours from town. Note that it is possible to rent a vehicle and driver for the arduous overland journey onwards from Khajuraho to Bandhavgarh (discussed later); this should set you back a maximum of Rs 6,000 for a car with A/C, during peak season.

Note:
We cannot overemphasize the appalling state of the roads in Madhya Pradesh. Avoid lengthy road trips, ensure sufficient stops, and don’t travel at night. If you must, rent the services of a sturdy 4WD and driver, and check that your vehicle has at least one spare wheel. We highly recommend
Grey Hornbill
(
94-2530-4970;
[email protected]) for travel in this region.

VISITOR INFORMATION
M. P. Tourism
(
07686/27-4051;
[email protected]; Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, closed Sun and second and third Sat of the month) is in the Chandela Cultural Centre, Khajuraho. The more helpful
India Tourism office
(
07686/27-2347;
Mon–Fri 9:30am–6pm) is located opposite the Western Group of Temples. Note that the state tourism website,
www.mptourism.com
, as well as the unrelated
www.khajuraho-temples.com
, are both decent sources of information.

GETTING AROUND
By Taxi, Auto-Rickshaw & Cycle-Rickshaw
You will be flooded with offers to take you from Khajuraho’s airport to your accommodations; in return, touts and drivers expect you to use their services for the duration of your stay, and will even continue to lurk outside your hotel. Make it clear that yours is a one-time fare, and stick to cycle-rickshaws and walking for the duration of your stay (average rickshaw costs are Rs 150 for a half-day trip including a stop at the Southern Group). To visit the Panna National Park, expect to pay Rs 900 for a taxi.

GUIDES
Guides charge Rs 600 for a group of one to five people for 4 hours. You can hire the services of a guide at
Raja Café
(opposite the Western Group of temples; see below). Alternatively, the MPSTDC offers a “Walkman Tour”—an audioguide tour purchased at the M. P. Tourism counter at the entrance to the Western Group; this costs Rs 50, but check that everything is in working order before you set out. Be warned that most guides in Khajuraho are just plain dreadful. They may be fine for pointing out details you might otherwise miss, but they regularly spout fundamentalist nonsense and provide the most unbelievable explanations for why erotica was carved on these temples (one classic explanation is that the scenes were created to tell people what “
not
to do”). An exception to the normal drivel is
Samson George
(
98-9317-3280
), a lighthearted guy who provides savvy historical information, with explanations that separate fact from legend. If you’re staying at one of the top-end hotels, ask them to arrange a guide.

FESTIVALS
The
Khajuraho Dance Festival
is
held
between February 25 and March 2, when the temples are transformed into a magical backdrop for India’s top classical dancers, who perform traditional Odissi, Kuchipudi, and Bharatnatyam dance forms, as well as contemporary Indian dance styles. For up-to-date information, visit
www.khajuraho-temples.com
.
Tip:
Hotels get packed during this time, so you may need to book months ahead.

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