India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (268 page)

Village Madla, District Panna 488 001.
07732/27-5235.
In Delhi contact Manav Khanduja (
98102-53436).
www.kenriverlodge.com
. [email protected]. 20 units (with showers). Rs 12,500 jungle plan double. No credit cards.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; airport transfer (Rs 700); boating; doctor-on-call; fishing; jeep safaris with naturalist; night safari. In room: Fans, water coolers (some units), no phone.

Pashan Garh
Although we would still rate Ken higher for the wildlife experience it offers, Pashan Garh is where you come if you want to really pamper yourself (and won’t get a chance to visit any of the other Taj &Beyond safari ventures). Spread through 80 hectares (200 acres) of forested land, cottages of stone and brick resembling local architectural styles are exquisitely private (30m/98 ft. apart); inside the decor breathes luxury. A raised platform acts as a divan with a fireplace surrounded by large glass windows overlooking the jungle while a gazebo outside with a khujuraho motif running along its sides is perfect for an after-safari massage. Have a sun-downer on the common veranda before moving to the dining hall—a single long chunky wooden table—great if there are plenty of guests around it, but not so cozy when less busy. The pool offers a cool respite to sultry afternoons and you can also explore the woods on the property itself instead of doing an evening safari—note that it takes almost an hour to get to the gates of Panna national park, which means getting up at an unearthly 4:30am or leaving in blistering heat at 2:30pm.

Panna National Park, Amanganj Rd, District Panna 488 001. Info
94-2542-0801.
Reservations:
866/969-1825
in the U.S. and Canada; or
1800-111-825
or 022/6601-1825 in India.
www.tajsafaris.com
. [email protected]. 12 units. Rs 32,000 per person per night. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
Dining room; bar; butler; doctor-on-call; library; outdoor pool; jeep safaris w/naturalists. In room: A/C, flashlight, hair dryer.

WHERE TO DINE

If you’re down with a case of culinary homesickness, you may find some comfort in the fact that Khajuraho is awash with eateries offering “multicuisine” menus; in fact, the term seems to be a favorite among staff in most of the top hotels. Unfortunately, the hotels are where you’ll find the best dining options. These are headed up by the
Temple Café
at the Radisson, and
Panna,
the multicuisine eatery at The Lalit Temple View (an altogether easier, and cheaper, option for lunch). If you don’t mind something a little more down home, sample the Italian fare offered at
Mediterraneo
(Jain Temple Rd., opposite Surya Hotel;
07686/27-2246;
no credit cards; daily 7:30am–10:30pm), an alfresco rooftop restaurant with friendly staff and little pretense beyond the gigantic letters along the side of the building exclaiming
MEDITERRANEO CHEF TRAINED IN ROME.
While this bit of ambitious advertising is something of an exaggeration, Rama, the owner,
is
from Rome, and he has personally trained all his staff. The menu offers a range of Italian favorites, including wood-fired pizza (when available; Rs 150–Rs 275), pasta, and tasty Roman-style chicken. Don’t expect to be blown away, but you can be sure your meal will be made with fresh ingredients, and there’s real espresso. Another local hangout—conveniently situated across the road from the Western Group entrance—is
Raja Café Swiss Restaurant
(
07686/27-2307;
no credit cards), which has a rooftop terrace and a ground level courtyard under a shady peepul tree. The only real advantage here is that you get to enjoy excellent views of the Western Group (it’s an ideal place for a beer after you’ve visited the site); we’re afraid that since the longstanding Swiss proprietor passed away several years ago, the food has gone from unremarkable to just passable.

SHOPPING

Khajuraho can be a nightmare. In contrast with the tranquil village atmosphere, hawkers and touts ooze from every corner and have record-setting persistence. You’ll no doubt develop a gut-wrenching dislike for the overstretched shopping areas in and around the main square, where everyone seems to demand that you step into yet another handicrafts shop to “just look, no buy.” Do not enter any shop in Khajuraho with anyone other than fellow travelers. If you make a purchase on your own, you’ll save yourself around 20%, which is the standard commission, borne by you, demanded by “agents” (taxi drivers, guides, or someone who has “befriended” you) for their “service” of bringing foreign business to local stores.

If you’re looking to buy miniature artworks—perhaps an erotic interpretation inspired by the temple carvings—consider stopping in at
Artist
(Surya Hotel Complex, Jain Temple Rd.;
07686/27-4145
), an appropriately named outlet for Pichhwai and Mughal paintings rendered by Dilip Singh and his two brothers, whose late father was a recipient of a National Award for Art many years back. Their paintings vary in subject, size, and quality, but the selection includes something to suit everyone’s pocket. Miniatures on silk, fabric, or paper start at a mere Rs 10, and go up to Rs 13,000; you can also commission a work if there’s something in particular that you want to take home with you.

5 Bandhavgarh National Park