India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (339 page)

Bhuntar, not too far south of Kullu, is the turnoff point for drives to Jari, Kasol, and the therapeutic hot springs of
Manikaran,
which is the main jumping-off point for a variety of treks to less-visited villages.
Khirganga,
farther east, is the site of even more thermal water springs, while isolated
Malana,
to the north, is an anthropologist’s dream and—if the experts in Amsterdam are to be believed—home of the world’s top-rated
ganja,
the infamous Malana Gold. Adventures to any of these remote areas should not be undertaken without the help of a recognized guide—not only is getting lost a strong possibility, but there have been reports of what are believed to be drug-related crimes, including the assault and “disappearance’” of travelers (some 250 tourists have mysteriously vanished over the years).

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE & AROUND
It’s possible to avoid Shimla entirely by flying directly to
Bhuntar Airport
10km (6 1⁄4 miles) south of Kullu. In Manali, taxis and auto-rickshaws charge ridiculously inflated rates that fluctuate seasonally and according to the whim of the near-militant local taxi union. Hire a car for the duration of your stay; if you’ve used a car and driver to get to Manali, you might consider planning ahead to retain the service for any further travel, bearing in mind that a sturdy vehicle with off-road capabilities and a driver who knows the terrain will be essential if you plan on getting to Ladakh or the regions east of the Beas River.

VISITOR INFORMATION & TRAVEL AGENTS
For information about the Kullu and Parvati valleys, visit
Himachal Pradesh Tourism
(
01902/22-2349;
www.himachaltourism.nic.in
) in Kullu, near the Maidan. In Manali, the
Tourist Information Centre
(The Mall, Manali;
01902/25-2175;
Mon–Sat 10am–1pm and 1:30–5pm) can give you a pile of booklets on destinations throughout the state (most of these are also available from the office in Shimla). Alternatively, try the
HPTDC
office (
01902/25-2360
). An ad-saturated tourist map of Manali is available for Rs 15, and more detailed books and booklets are available for purchase.
Matkon Travels
(
01902/25-3738
or 98-1600-3738) can also help you with domestic flights and deluxe-bus bookings.

ADVENTURE & TREKKING SPECIALISTS
If you have questions about what’s possible in and around Manali, make contact with the
Himalayan Institute of Adventure Sports
(Roshan Thakur;
98-1601-6554
); you should be able to get assistance organizing reputable and reliable guides for sightseeing, trekking, rafting, paragliding, and skiing—at the very least they’ll point you in the right direction. If you arrive in Manali with no prearranged outdoor activities, you can contact two places.
Himalayan Outdoor Centre
(en route to Rohtang Rd., 1.5km/1 mile from Manali;
01902/25-2581
or 98-1600-3035) offers a wide range of adventure activities, including rafting on the Beas River, skiing (Apr to mid-May), snowboarding, treks, jeep safaris, and tandem paragliding. You can also approach
Antrek
, the oldest agency in Manali, and the one we recommend for organized treks.

Avoid the Rush

The low-level but ongoing threat of war in Kashmir has meant that Manali’s popularity has soared over the last decade. Visitors who once would have gone to Kashmir for the snow and possibility of skiing now swamp Manali during the Indian high season, which stretches from April until the rains hit in early July, and then again from September to November. Manali’s charms have been all but eroded by this tourist explosion, which sets off a soulless cash-rally that seems to involve every proprietor, merchant, and taxi-tour operator in town; hotel tariffs also soar during this period.
Bottom line:
Try to avoid this usually peaceful town during these months.

MANALI

Yes, it’s set amid dense pine forests and shadowed by snowy peaks, but Manali’s reputation as a spectacular Himalayan resort is much exaggerated. The primary reason to be here is to set off for Leh in Ladakh, a 2-day drive away, or to participate in the many treks or adventure sports, including heli-skiing.

Manali comprises several neighborhoods, each with a distinct personality. North of the Manalsu Nala River is
Old Manali,
with its historic stone buildings; to the west is the pleasant village of
Dhungri;
while messy
Model Town
is a motley collection of concrete buildings tucked behind the main bazaar area, concentrated around The Mall. East of the Beas River, a few kilometers north of Manali is
Vashisht,
a village known for its hot springs and laid-back atmosphere. Unfortunately, Vashisht has lost much of its charm, thanks to an influx of long-stay budget tourists; a dunk in the communal hot-water bath of the local temple is hardly reason enough to visit.

The most peaceful area is
Dhungri Village
(around 2km/1 1⁄4 miles from the bazaar), where you can stroll through deodar forests or visit a 450-year-old temple where animal sacrifice is still practiced. On the outskirts of the neighborhood, the multitiered wooden pagoda-style
Hadimba Devi Temple
, built in 1553, is Manali’s oldest and most interesting shrine, dedicated to the demon goddess Hadimba (an incarnation of Kali). Look around for the sheltered sacrificial stone used for blood rituals during important ceremonies; the central hollow is where the blood from a slain buffalo or goat drains into Hadimba’s mouth.