India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (308 page)

Udai Kothi, Udaipur 313 001.
0294/243-2810
or -2812. Fax 0294/243-0412.
www.udaikothi.com
. 32 units. Rs 5,000 standard double; Rs 6,000 deluxe double; Rs 7,000 suite; Rs 1,500 extra bed. Taxes extra. MC, V.
Amenities:
2 restaurants; bar; airport transfers Rs 500; boating; bookshop; cultural performances; doctor-on-call; garden; health club; Internet (free); Jacuzzi; pool; roof terrace; room service; traditional performances. In room: A/C, TV.

Udaivilas
You’d be forgiven for relinquishing all sightseeing responsibilities and simply giving in to your inner indolence at this highly relaxing resort, much lauded in various glossy magazines and influential travel sites. If you’re a first-time visitor to Udaipur, you’ll want to reserve a lake-view room (which automatically has access—from your own personal porch—to a semiprivate infinity pool that forms a veritable moat along the length of the accommodations wing); this is the best way of ensuring round-the-clock visual access to the city’s favorite sights. Otherwise, book a cheaper room and plan on spending your days at the spa pool (the main resort pool, designed like a monumental step-well, is lovely but lacks views). As in all Oberois hotels, the staff and service levels are exceptional, all look absolutely beautiful and they are engaging, sincere and intuitive, and cuisine is superb.

Haridasji Ki Magri, Udaipur 313 001.
0294/243-3300. Oberoi hotels:
800/562-3764. Fax 0294/243-3200.
www.oberoihotels.com
. 87 units. Rs 30,500 premiere double; Rs 36,500 premiere lake-view double; Rs 170, 000 luxury suite with private pool; Rs 240,000 Kohinoor suite with private pool. Taxes extra. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge/bar; babysitting; boating; butler service; CD/DVD library; doctor-on-call; limousine transfer from airport complimentary on request; 2 pools; room service; Banyan Spa (with Ayurvedic treatments); Wi-Fi (30 min. for Rs 113; 60 min. for Rs 225; 24 hours for Rs 885); adjacent wildlife conservatory. In room: A/C, TV, DVD/CD, Internet, minibar, semi-private pools (some); suites have private pools.

Around Udaipur

Reviewed below is the famous Devi Garh, which we feel is slipping somewhat from its revered pedestal but hopefully will soon be back on track. It’s a short distance from Udaipur (26km/16 miles or 45 min.) along a winding, scenic road with fields of corn, sugarcane and mustard seed, and hotel staff will arrange camel or horse safaris, jeep treks, or chauffeured tours of Udaipur, Eklingji, Nagda, Nathdwara, Kumbhalgarh Fort, and Ranakpur. If it doesn’t suit your budget, or if you’d prefer to be within even easier striking distance of the city, you’ll be pleased to learn that the owners of popular Udai Kothi have come up with a marvelous little property just 6km (3 3⁄4 miles) from Lake Pichola. Surrounded by dramatic hilly landscape,
Udai Bagh
(see Udai Kothi, above;
www.udaibagh.com
) is a serene country retreat with a big pool and just seven luxury tents; there are plans in the not-too-distant future for an upmarket destination spa with additional rooms (from Rs 8,500 double), to be designed by Nimesh Patel, who had his hand in Udaivilas. The air-conditioned en-suite tents—outfitted with clay tile floors, block-print-fabric ceilings, and metal frame beds (reserve no. 1 if you want a double bed)—have lovely wooden furniture and piles of magazines and books to keep you entertained (there’s also a TV, minibar, Wi-Fi, and room service if reading doesn’t suffice). Bathrooms have big, smart showers, and there’s a little porch with seats out front (it’s not very private, but you won’t be sharing the property with too many people). Udai Bagh is also just Rs 8,500 double, with breakfast. There’s no restaurant, but a butler brings you whatever you want, and there’s a free shuttle service to and from Udaipur—just 10 minutes away.

Devi Garh
This is an unparalleled masterpiece in design, marrying the towering exterior of an original 18th-century Rajput palace (which remains totally unchanged) with a re-invented minimalist contemporary interior, in which almost everything, from the bed and sofa bases, sunken bathtubs to ashtrays and vases, is carved out of white marble. Little wonder that it’s become a popular Bollywood and VIP wedding location and reaped numerous international awards. But we were distressed during our last visit to find an overall sense of neglect and arrogance, including small but essential things such as old towels, uncomfortable pillows, insufficient water pressure, a heated pool in the middle of summer, general staff disenchantment, and dated bathrooms—at the price, inexcusable. Designwise the hotel is still stupendous and we hope that management issues will be ironed out to make this highly acclaimed hotel (by, among others,
Condé Nast Traveler Gold List and RCA 2009,
Vogue, Wallpaper
) once again one of our favorites. (Write and let us know if in your experience it does!)

Devi Garh, Delwara Village 313 001.
02953/28-9211.
In Delhi: 011/2335-4554 or 011/2375-5540.
www.deviresorts.com
. [email protected]. 49 units. Low season (Apr–Sept)/high season (Oct–Mar): Rs 37,000/Rs 45,000 garden suite; Rs 57,000/Rs 73,000 palace suite; Rs 77,000/Rs 93,000 Aravalli suite; Rs 117,000/Rs 133,000 Devi Garh suite; Rs 2,000 extra bed. Taxes extra; certain ultra-peak-season supplements apply. AE, DC, MC, V. Meals extra: Breakfast Rs 650/725, lunch Rs 1,300/1,500, and dinner Rs 1,500/1,700. Special venue meals extra lunch Rs 1,000, dinner Rs 2,000.
Amenities:
Restaurant; bar; astrologer; babysitting; cycling; doctor-on-call; health club/gym; horse/camel riding; Internet free; kite flying; library; pool; pool table; room service; spa; table tennis; tennis court; village walks. In room: A/C, TV, DVD/CD, minibar, free Wi-Fi.

WHERE TO DINE

When it comes to Udaipur’s fine-dining experiences, don’t miss an evening at the
Lake Palace Hotel,
where you can watch beautiful young Rajasthani Banjari women twirl to a hypnotic drumbeat (while behind them are sublime views of the City Palace turning pink). This waterside dance routine is usually followed by a more elaborate performance in an open-air courtyard alongside the fabulous bar where you can order a cocktail and enjoy canapés served by the splendid waitstaff. After the show, head to one of the hotel’s very smart restaurants; be prepared to shell out considerably for the privilege of dining in one of the most special spots in India, especially the unforgettable rooftop terrace in winter, and make sure to book in advance (
0294/252-8800
)—you’ll need a reservation in order to get ferried to the hotel in the first place.