India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (311 page)
GETTING AROUND
Rickshaws are the most useful way to get around the Old City (a 15-min. ride should cost around Rs 50), but you’ll need to hire a taxi if you plan to visit the outlying attractions. To hire a car and driver for the day (or longer—for instance, for a round-trip to Jaisalmer or to Udaipur), contact Kawaljeet Singh on
Rajasthan Tours
(
0291/251-2428
or -2932;
www.rajasthantouronline.com
). For local travel needs call Dilip Singh at Travel Plan at0291/251-2354
([email protected]; A-1 Sir Pratap Colony, Airport Rd.), who can arrange excellent guides (ask for Kalyan Singh) and everything from tailored packages to drivers and onward travel.
FESTIVALS
Diwali,
the Hindu New Year celebration that takes place in October/November, is celebrated all over India, but the “Festival of Lights” is particularly exciting when viewed from the lawns of Umaid Bhawan Palace. At the grand bash held by Maharaja Gaj Singh II, you can experience firsthand the deep reverence with which the former ruler of Jodhpur and Marwar is still treated—everyone wants to kiss the hem and touch the hand of their beloved father figure. The 2-day
Marwar Festival,
held during the full moon in October, is also worth attending, particularly to see the fire dance held on the Osian dunes. Celebrations include classical folk music concerts, puppet shows, camel polo, and even turban-tying contests. The end of the festivities is heralded with the
fire dance,
when men jump over burning wood to the rhythm of drums and chants. Sometimes dancers perform on top of red-hot coals, moving in an almost trancelike state to percussion beats.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Having visited the fort and Umaid Bhawan Palace, there’s no reason to overextend yourself, especially given the dusty heat. If you’re here for a few days you may opt to include a trip to
Mandore,
which lies 9km (5 1⁄2 miles) north of the Old City. The previous capital of Marwar (not to be confused with Mewar, the princely state of Udaipur), Mandore has as its principal attractions today gardens (in dire need of attention) in which lie the templelike cenotaphs built to honor the Rathore rulers before final rites were moved to Jaswant Thada (see Mehrangarh Fort & Museum, below). The largest and grandest of the red-sandstone structures was also the last to be built here; it commemorates the life of Maharaja Dhiraj Ajit Singh, who died in 1763. Beyond, in a totally separate section (pious to the end), is a group of smaller cenotaphs, built to commemorate the female counterparts. Opposite the weird but ultimately missable museum is the
Hall of Heroes,
a collection of 18th-century deities and Rajput heroes carved out of a rock wall. If you haven’t tired of temples by now, you can move on to visit the Hindu and Jain temples at
Osian,
65km (40 miles) north of Jodhpur. You first come across the
Vishnu
and
Harihara temples,
which were built between the 8th and 9th centuries, but more impressive (or at least still alive with worship) are
Sacchiya Mata
(12th c.) and
Mahavira Jain temples
(8th and 10th c.). See Ranakpur Temples, earlier in this chapter, for rules on entering a Jain temple. Virtually every hotel and agent in town arranges
village safaris,
in which you are taken into the arid surrounds to make contact with the rural Bishnoi people, sample their food, and learn about their traditional remedies and crafts; expect to pay from Rs 1,500 for two people for a 5-hour trip that should include some wildlife sightings. If you’re curious, ask your operator or hotel if you can also see a traditional opium tea drinking ceremony, which forms part of the daily rituals of village life. You can arrange these safaris through Travel Plan or the RTDC at the tourist office (see “Visitor Information,” above), but you’ll save yourself much effort by asking your hotel to make all arrangements.
Mehrangarh Fort & Museum
“The work of angels, fairies and giants . . . he who walks through it loses sense of being among buildings; it as though he walked through mountain gorges . . .” wrote Rudyard Kipling in 1899. Little has changed since then, and for many this looming 15th-century edifice to Rajput valor is still Rajasthan’s most impressive fort, with walls that soar like sheer cliffs 120m (400 ft.) high, literally dwarfing the city at its base, and a proud history of never having fallen to its many invaders. Before you start exploring the fort, pick up an audioguide (free with entry fee; passport or driver’s license required as deposit). This is in fact one of the best audioguides you will get at a tourist site in India, with sound effects and commentaries from former rulers of Jodhpur recorded on an MP3 player in seven languages. It contains additional information on subjects like the caste system, the maharajas, miniature paintings, and more. If you prefer a more interactive tour, where you do not have to stand around in listening groups and can ask questions, then hire a local guide: there are few better than Kalyan Singh (see Visitor Information above). Do not hire one at the fort entrance, most of whom consider the audioguide useless and will ultimately steer you toward some ill-considered shopping in order to reap a commission (you have been warned). There is an elevator, but rather choose to walk past cannon-pockmarked and
sati
-daubed
Loha Gate
(the maharajas’ wives would traditionally immortalize their lives by leaving handprints on the fort walls before tossing themselves on the flames to join their deceased husbands). Once at the top, you enjoy not only the most spectacular view, but you enter one of India’s finest museums, with a rich collection of palanquins, royal cradles, miniature paintings, musical instruments, costumes, furniture, and armor. Every room is worth exploring (allow at least 2 hr.), but among the highlights are ladies intricately carved Zennana (note the overhangs on the outside of the
jarokhas
to protect the sandstone latticework from the rain) the gorgeous
royal chamber
where the Maharaja entertained his 30-plus wives (we’re not even counting concubines; look out for the large wall mirrors in which his wives could get glimpses of his antics from their quarters);
Moti Mahal,
featuring the throne on which every Marwar Maharaja has been crowned; and
Phool Mahal,
the “dancing hall” with its pure gold ceiling as well as The Armoury with its fascinating collection of carved swords and daggers. A massive
silk and velvet tent,
taken from Emperor Shah Jahan in Delhi, is a vivid illustration of the superlative wealth and decadent pomp with which the Rathore rulers lived. After visiting the courtyard of
Chamunda (Sun Goddess) Temple
(remember to remove your shoes), take the road that leads to the left to view what is apparently among the rarest collections of cannons in India—again, the view alone is worth it. There is a very good museum shop (look for the exquisite silk and chiffon fabrics made by award-winning Tyeb Khan) and a restaurant where you can catch your breath.
On the road that leads to and from the fort, you will notice
Jaswant Thada,
a white marble cenotaph (built in the same marble as the Taj) built to commemorate the life of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II, who died in 1899, and where the last rites of the Jodhpur rulers have been held since then. It’s a pretty and relaxing place and worth the short stop off for its respite after the crush of the fort and its great views. If you finish with the fort before sunset, descend to the cobbled streets of
Sadar Market,
where the sights and aromas of India’s ancient and narrow streets—packed with cows, people, goats, carts, and chickens, and remarkably untouristed—may leave you wondering whether you’ve wandered onto the set of a movie about medieval times. If it all gets too claustrophobic, hire a rickshaw in which to sit in relative comfort and watch the passing parade or escape to the nearby Pal Haveli for a rooftop drink. All in all, this will be one of your most satisfying outings in Rajasthan. (
Note:
Try and tour the fort in the morning in summer [out of season] and in the evening in winter.)
The Fort, Jodhpur.0291/254-8790.
Mehrangarh Fort: Rs 250 includes camera fee and audioguide; Rs 200 video; Rs 15 elevator. Apr–Sept 8:30am–5:30pm; Oct–Mar 9am–5pm. Jaswant Thada: Rs 20; Rs 25 camera; Rs 50 video. Daily 8:30am–5:30pm.
Eighteenth-Century Tree Huggers