India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (348 page)

“The Dalai Lama Speaks Here & Richard Gere Slept There”

One of the best people to speak to if you’re eager to organize an audience with His Holiness is the spirited owner of Nick’s Italian Kitchen, Tenzin. His father worked as security officer for the Dalai Lama from the age of 18, and Tenzin remains a proud and committed follower of the Dalai Lama. He also organizes occasional talks on Tibet and Buddhism at the restaurant, and is overflowing with personal theories about the local community and the diplomatic situation with the Chinese government. Staunch Richard Gere fans traveling on a limited budget can try to get the extremely popular Gere Suite at the seriously laid-back
Kunga Guesthouse
(
98-1602-1180
),
above the restaurant; Gere was the first guest when it opened on January 24, 1996. Rooms here are basic, but have attached bathrooms, hot showers, and double beds for Rs 300; Rs 500 gets you one with a balcony, and Rs 600 gets you the Gere unit.

Chonor House
TIBETAN McLeod Ganj’s best guesthouse also offers its most impressive dining. The menu is a veritable encyclopedia of Tibetan dishes, many of them borderline addictive. Share a plate of
momos
to start—these butter dumplings are steamed to perfection and filled with tasty fresh white cheese. Or experiment with the excellent
bobi,
which allows you to build your own Tibetan spring rolls, a fun alternative to the greasy version popular in Chinese takeout joints. You can build all night, using thinly grilled bread wraps, seasoned glass noodles, mixed vegetables, tofu, and Basmati rice. Or have the
bobi
as a starter, after which you can try the delicious fried
pishi
(wontons), deliciously seasoned
shabri
(meat or vegetable balls in garlic sauce), or steaming mutton-filled
shabalay
(bread pie). For the health conscious there are scrumptious, fresh salads, but you’ll probably be more tempted by the utterly decadent selection of cakes on display.

Chonor House, Thekchen Choling Rd., McLeod Ganj.
01892/22-1468.
Main courses Rs 65–Rs 175. MC, V. Daily 7am–10pm.

SHOPPING

McLeod Ganj is full of shops selling curios, books, or trekking gear—and you’ll see lots of unlikely combinations like “laundry and bakery.” You can buy reasonably priced Tibetan rugs and handicrafts from the
Tibetan Handicraft Centre
(near McLeod Ganj Post Office, Jogibara Rd.;
01892/22-1415
), but a far more memorable experience is to hike through the forest to the
Tibetan Children’s Village Handicraft Centre
(
01892/22-1592;
www.tvc.org.in
); it’s a pleasant half-hour walk north of McLeod Ganj, near Dal Lake. Back in town,
Stitches of Tibet
(Temple Rd.;
01892/22-1198
or -1527) is an enterprise that trains local women in handicraft production. Their shop stocks the completed handicrafts as well as Tibetan clothing. If you want to buy a traditional Tibetan
thangka
(painted or embroidered banner or wall decoration), the
Norbulingka Institute
is where this art is preserved and taught; they also take orders. Shop at the institute or at Chonor House, knowing that your purchase will actually contribute to the development of Tibetan craftsmanship. For beautiful women’s wear, including gowns and kimonos in fabulous fabrics, stop at
Eternal Creation
(4 Temple Rd.;
www.eternalcreation.com
), which stocks only its own brand, produced in Dharamsala under fair trade conditions in a project that aims to give opportunities to local people and refugees. Another interesting boutique is
Tamana
(Jogiwara Rd.;
98-1614-1192
or 01892/22-21921) with clothing created by a French designer who works locally with predyed South Indian fabrics to create some fascinating women’s and children’s wear.

For books, visit
Namgyal Bookstore
in the temple complex; its excellent collection focuses primarily on Tibetan culture and Buddhism, but it has a good number of beautiful publications on Himachal Pradesh and other Himalayan regions as well. Also filled with an interesting assortment of books on the history, culture, and art of the region is
Youtse Book Shop
(Mount View Complex, Temple Rd.).

If you’d like to pick up handcrafted mementos and support a good cause, stop by the
Rogpa Shop & Café
(Jogiwara Rd., McLeod Gang;
98-1665-9549;
www.rogpa.com
), run by a charitable trust that creates opportunities for unemployed Tibetans as well as encouraging entrepreneurs and artists. A number of local Tibetan organizations sell their merchandise here, and you can pick up handmade paper, Tibetan crafts, and designs from the “Made in Exile” label that aims to promote global awareness about the Tibetan cause. You can also donate clothing for resale, or volunteer by working in the shop or helping at Rogpa’s Baby Care Centre.