India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (344 page)

TREKKING & ADVENTURE SPORTS
If you love the outdoors, it would be unthinkable not to trek in the magnificent Dhauladhar Range, and there are some impressive hikes whether you have limited time or are prepared to spend a few days exploring. You could start by approaching the
Mountaineering Institute
(Dharamkot Rd.;
01892/22-1787
) for maps and information on the myriad trekking possibilities, or to join one of their outings. However, the best mountaineer in the region is
John Hughes
(
98-0547-2037
), who is probably the only person you should trust completely to take you into the mountains on more challenging treks and climbs. He won’t allow you to go up if you’re not properly prepared or don’t have the right shoes, for example. If you’re serious about getting into the mountains, contact him ahead of your visit.

Warning:
Every year, a number of gung-ho, unprepared trekkers head off into the Dhauladhars and don’t come back. Don’t underestimate these mountains, and be aware that nightfall comes suddenly, along with potentially freezing conditions. Do not hike alone and always inform someone of your intended route. If you get injured in these mountains, there’s little chance of being found, and the lammergeiers (vultures, aka “bone breakers”) that nest here will finish you off without a trace.

Paragliding
has become huge in the Kangra Valley, and the region’s expert is
Bruce Mills
(
98-0567-8478;
[email protected]), a New Zealand–born flyer who will set you up with a tandem flight that will leave you breathless for all the right reasons. Bruce has been flying in Himachal Pradesh since 1989 and launches from Billing; he charges Rs 3,000 for a half-hour flight, which can be extended if the weather is right and you’re particularly interested. Bruce can also fly-guide paraglider pilots who want to be shown around a bit before they head off on their own.

THE TOP ATTRACTIONS

Church of St. John in the Wilderness
Ten minutes of downhill walking from McLeod Ganj brings you to the Church of St. John in the Wilderness, surrounded by deodar cedars. It’s a neo-Gothic stone construction, with its original Belgian stained glass intact in spite of a severe earthquake in 1905 that leveled the rest of town. Buried in the grassy adjoining graveyard is British Viceroy Lord Elgin (whose somewhat infamous father was responsible for the controversial Elgin Marbles).

Daily 10am–5pm.

Norbulingka Institute
If you’re interested in getting a firsthand understanding of the techniques (and unbelievable patience) required to produce authentic Tibetan arts and crafts, the institute is a good starting point. Set in well-tended grounds some 40 minutes from Dharamsala, it comprises workshops, training centers, a temple, a guesthouse, a cafe, and a doll museum. You can contact the management in advance to organize a tour through the facilities, where you can witness the creation of colorful tantric
thangkas
(embroidered wall hangings), paintings, metalware, furniture, and traditional garments. You can also sign up for Tibetan language lessons, particularly useful if you intend spending time here to work as a volunteer, or wish to explore Buddhism in more depth. The beautiful
Seat of Happiness Temple
features astounding murals, including impressions of all 14 Dalai Lamas and 1,173 images of the Buddha, which decorate the 13m-high (43-ft.) temple hall. The gilded copper Buddha Sakyamuni was crafted by Norbulingka’s master statue-maker, Pemba Dorje, and is one of the largest of its kind outside Tibet; the arch behind the statue is decorated with sculpted clay images. Head for the richly ornamented temple rooftop for magnificent views of the surrounding landscape. The Institute’s
Losel Doll Museum
features diorama-style displays of miniature figures (Tibetan dolls) in traditional costumes and historical regalia.

P.O. Sidhpur.
01892/24-6402
or -6405.
www.norbulingka.org
. Free admission; doll museum Rs 20. Daily 9am–5:30pm.

Thekchen Chöling Temple Complex
Life in McLeod Ganj revolves around this Buddhist temple complex, linked to the off-limits private residence of the Dalai Lama. A good example of Buddhism’s spiritual and artistic traditions, the complex comprises
Namgyal Monastery
and
Tsuglakhang Temple,
both worth a visit if you’re keen to get a sense of active lamaistic practice. In the outside courtyard, you’ll often witness monks debating or meditatively preparing colorful sand
mandalas,
diagrams that symbolize the universe and are used in the ritual of spiritual empowerment known as the
kalachakra
ceremony, after which the meticulous designs are destroyed. The
gompa
houses various cultural relics brought from Lhasa during the Cultural Revolution, including a 1,500-year-old idol of Guru Padmasambhav, and a life-size image of Avalokiteshvara, of whom the Dalai Lama is believed to be an incarnation. Public appearances by the Dalai Lama occur from time to time; consult the local authorities for information (and see “Essentials,” above). The complex courtyard is the venue for an all-day festival of traditional dance held in honor of His Holiness’s birthday on July 6, although the Dalai Lama is not always in attendance on this auspicious day. It’s worthwhile to take a break from the prayer wheels and settle in at the tiny, laid-back Nyamgal Café in the temple complex (see “Where to Dine,” below) which serves as a vocational training opportunity for young Tibetans. Snag the window-side table for beautiful views over the valley below.