India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (352 page)

WHAT TO SEE & DO IN LEH

Leh’s wide street
bazaar
runs east-west. Together with the labyrinth of adjoining side streets and alleys, the bazaar is the center of business and shopping—particularly for visitors who find the plethora of antiques shops irresistible. Locals tend to visit the alternative market nearer the Leh
polo ground,
east of the center.
For a truly exotic and atmospheric experience, visit the
Old Village
, a disorganized cluster of cobblestone streets, ancient homes, and low-vaulted tunnels. It’s well worth an exploratory jaunt, during which you should sample the freshly baked breads sold by local bakers. Walking northwest of the city (beyond the
Women’s Alliance of Ladakh
headquarters, where you can shop for traditional Ladakhi handicrafts), you will quickly discover a
rural farm community.
Gone are the shops and eager sellers—here you’ll find only fields of green sprinkled with bright yellow blossoms, gentle streams trickling past squat stone walls, and small Ladakhi houses with little vegetable gardens; these days, there are also an ever-increasing number of guesthouses and hotels, though. To the west are the cobbled streets of the popular
Changspa
neighborhood, characterized by the number of guesthouses, restaurants, and laid-back marijuana-smoking travelers who seem to come here to hang out with each other. To the west of Changspa lies
Shanti Stupa,
a Buddhist monument most easily reached by motorable road. Inaugurated by the Dalai Lama in the 1980s, the large white
stupa
(commemorative cairn) was conceived as part of a Japanese-inspired peace movement to spread Buddhism throughout the world. From the vast courtyard at the base of the stupa you can enjoy matchless
panoramic views
of Leh and the rugged beauty of the surrounding mountains, which seem to stretch on forever. Looming over Leh from the side of Tsemo Hill is the nine-storey
Leh Palace
(Rs 100; sunrise–sunset), reached by following any number of pathways through the old quarter that stretches out behind the
Jama Masjid
in the northeastern corner of the main bazaar area. Built mainly of stone and wood with mud bricks and mud mortar, construction began in 1553 under Tsewang Namgyal, the founder of the Hyamgal Dynasty; it’s designed as a miniature version of Llasa’s Potala Palace, but has long languished in a state of disrepair, but reconstruction and restoration are well under way and will no doubt continue for some years. There’s still quite a bit to investigate, including an atmospheric temple inside the palace, and the views from its balconies and windows are magnificent. A stiff climb farther up the hill will bring you to the
Namgyal Tsemo Gompa,
where the dangerous-looking ramparts invite cautious exploration; there’s a small temple hidden away right at the top and at some point a young monk might just jump out of nowhere asking you to buy a Rs 20 ticket. Again, the views are simply awesome—take your time and mind your step.

Back in the main part of town, make a point of finding the
fruit and vegetable market,
entered via an unmarked entrance opposite the Hotel Ga-Ldan Continental on Zangsti

The Great Ladakhi Gatherings

If you’re hoping to coincide your visit to Ladakh with a special event, there’s always the increasingly commercial 2-day
Hemis Tsechu,
a colorful festival with chaam dances, temple music, and a number of sacred rituals seemingly put on for the enjoyment of the heaving crowd. Sadly, the authenticity of the festival has been seriously compromised as this region grows in popularity and Hemis is mobbed by tourists and stall-keepers out to make a quick buck. An exciting new, nonreligious alternative festival is the
Ladakh Confluence
(
http://theconfluence.in
), which premiered in 2009, and is set to become a highlight on India’s event circuit. Held for 4 days in July or August (check the website for this year’s exact dates), the festival is a celebration of music, art, nature and culture that promises some outstanding performances, as well as many workshops showcasing everything from Ladakhi dance and drumming to meditation and storytelling; there’s a film lounge, outdoor cafe, nomadic camping site where traditional crafts are demonstrated, food stalls, and a number of chill-out spaces. While Hemis is a religious festival blown out of proportion, the Confluence aims to get people thinking about the environment and rethinking their relationship with cultural tradition. Even so, the lineup of events includes a momo-eating competition and plenty of pure entertainment. It’s held on the banks of the Indus River just outside Choglomsar, some 8km (5 miles) from Leh; in 2009, entry cost Rs 5,000 for a 4-day adult pass, or Rs 1,500 for a day ticket. For a more authentic and spiritually meaningful festival experience, make a date for the annual
Lamayuru
festival
held between late June and early July. Tourists are few, but villagers from miles around don their best traditional finery and make the pilgrimage on foot to join in some of the most enchanting Buddhist celebrations still happening today.

WHERE TO STAY IN & AROUND LEH

With tourism the single most important industry in town, Leh is inundated with accommodations, most of them offering very good value, often with a homey, welcoming atmosphere rather than five-star luxury. Remember that virtually all these places are closed for most of the year during a prolonged harsh winter, so it doesn’t really pay to have heaps of facilities that are only operative for a few months. Besides, you’re here to see the dramatic Ladakhi landscape and discover its unique culture and Buddhist heritage, so forgive occasionally basic conditions, especially when it comes to bathrooms which, for the most part, are merely adequate (check into the glitzy Grand Dragon if you demand more). Try to be understanding about hot water facilities (which may be restricted to certain hours), and consider the fragility of the environment and the fact that running water is in fact a very scarce resource.

We’ve long enjoyed the out-of-the-way setting of the welcoming
Shambha-La Hotel,
and this, together with family run
Omasila
(both reviewed below) remains our top choices.

There is no tax in Ladakh, but most hotels do charge an additional 10% service charge which will be added to your bill; most hotels have meal plans in addition to the standard bed and breakfast options for which we’ve provided rates below. It’s definitely worth venturing beyond your hotel and trying some of the restaurants in town, though, so rather avoid signing up for all-inclusive meal packages. The same does not apply once you step outside Leh, when finding a reliable place to eat can be quite challenging.

The Grand Dragon
Ladakh’s first and only full-on hotel, complete with elevator, business-style rooms and the best bathrooms for hundreds of miles, is sadly afflicted by incompetence. Full marks for getting the mattresses and linens right (not to mention plasma TVs), some interesting artworks and providing great views, but it’s a tactless luxury. The hulking block of concrete may echo local architecture, but it’s ultimately an eyesore that belongs in a big city, not at the gateway to a high-altitude paradise, and we couldn’t help feeling a little guilty (and ripped off) for staying at what feels like an attempt to turn Leh into Las Vegas. Add to that lost bookings, absent manager, absent travel desk, forgotten wake-up call, Leh’s rudest reception clerk, and big-ego prices, it amounts to a place that we won’t be returning to in a hurry.