India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (364 page)
23rd Milestone, Rishikesh-Badrinath Rd., Village and P.O. Gular-Dogi, Tehri-Garhwal District 249 303.
01378/26-9218.
Reservations: 13 Main Market, New Delhi 110 013.011/2435-6145
or 011/4182-5001. Fax 011/2435-1112.
www.neemranahotels.com
. 15 units. Rs 3,000–Rs 6,000 standard and “grand” doubles and triples; Rs 4,000 triple suite; Rs 6,000 luxury triple suite; Rs 8,000 Gangeshwari suite. Rs 800 extra bed; taxes extra. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; dining terrace; airport transfer (Rs 2,200, 2 days notice); doctor-on-call, Ayurvedic spa; yoga. In room: A/C, TV in some, no phone in some.
Saying Goodbye to the Ganga at the Gateway to God
Not exactly the lesser-known neighbor,
Haridwar
(Dwar of Hari, or “Gateway to God”) is even holier than Rishikesh—according to Hindu mythology, this is one of the four sacred sites where a drop of the nectar of immortality (amrita) accidentally fell (at a point referred to as Brahmakund) while being carried by the mythical bird Garuda (the other three sites are Nasik, Allahabad and Ujjain). This is also the point where the Ganga river leaves the hills to enter the plains. Most time-bound tourists give this sacred site a miss and while it is by no means a necessary stop, it does have a unique atmosphere, with literally hundreds of devotees gathering daily at har-ki-pauri for the evening arti (6:30pm). Unfortunately a tad commercial, you will be approached by seemingly innocent priests and touts who will first seat you comfortably and then ask for donations “if possible”—make your intentions to refuse clear beforehand. The ceremony isn’t as elaborate as the one in Varanasi or as hypnotic as Rishikesh but it’s interesting to observe the frenzied crowd, many of whom have traveled for days for this moment of devotion. That apart, the walk to har-ki-pauri, through narrow streets lined with all manner of fascinating shops (food like rabri—sweetened milk cooked for hours; copperware; traditional white and brown ceramic martabans or jars) and a trip to the many temples to see benignly smiling Gods dressed in loud gaudy colors can make for an interesting day or two. Thankfully, there is also now a fairly decent option to stay:
Haveli Hari Ganga(Pilibhit House, 2 Ramghat, Haridwar;
www.leisurehotels.in
; doubles from $100 with breakfast) is a traditional old mansion with airy courtyards, a private mini-ghat (steps leading into the river) and a temple with a morning and evening arti. Rooms are quirky—palace architecture broken by ill-fitting modern amenities, well-sprung mattresses on concrete platforms, original tiles, alcoves and niches; the best rooms have a terrace facing the river—delightful to watch seagulls pass by every few minutes while the Ganga glides past languidly.
2 Kumaon
It’s not hard to fathom why the British Raj claimed this eastern pocket of Himalayan India from Nepal in 1815. Free of the hustle and bustle of urban India and blessed with a gentle, laid-back quality, the Kumaon, studded with gorgeous lakes, not all of which are overcrowded with construction, is great for viewing breathtaking scenery, breathing in restorative oxygen-rich air, taking wonderful walks, and seeing decaying reminders of the British preoccupation with transforming remote villages into proper English towns. Prominent among these are
Nainital
and
Ranikhet.
Both are surrounded by pine forests and are good spots for taking a break; the latter is prettier and arguably the most evocative former British hill station in India. However, with the opening of Fisherman’s Lodge at Bhimtal (30km/19 miles from Nainital), we recommend giving Nainital a miss altogether, and heading straight for this restorative retreat. Kumaon is great road-trip country: A good route is to spend a couple of nights at Fisherman’s Lodge, possibly overnighting at Mukteshwar next, before setting off for Binsar or Almora—this is untouched Kumaon, with superb places to rest your head: other than the two stalwarts listed, there is the absolutely fabulous 360° at Leti, perhaps the most exclusive mountain resort in the country. Next, either head east to Ranikhet or return back south to Naukuchiatal (or Jilling) for your next stop, ending your journey at Corbett National Park. Wherever you overnight, the road journeys between these destinations are the real joy of the Kumaon; when you’re this close to gorgeous Himalayan mountain ranges, you simply cannot escape breathtaking views.
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE & AROUND
There are many trains heading out of both Delhi and Lucknow towards Kathgodam, 35km (22 miles) from Nainital. The overnight Ranikhet Express leaves Old Delhi at 10:45pm and arrives at 6:05am. There are always taxis (from Rs 500) and share-taxis available (from Rs 50 a seat), or you can have your hotel pick you up from the station. There are also overnight private deluxe buses (pick the Volvo; departure 9.30pm with 7:30am arrival; Rs 700 return) from Delhi to Nainital). Ranikhet is an additional 60km (37 miles) from Nainital, or a 31⁄2-hour journey from the Kathgodam railway station. Once you’ve found your bearings, hire a car (preferably a four-wheel-drive) and driver for the duration of your stay in Uttarakhand. You can expect to pay around Rs 14 per kilometer, plus an additional fee per day and a reasonable contribution (Rs 250) towards the driver’s overnight expenses.
VISITOR INFORMATION
While in Delhi, you can visit the
KMVN Tourist Information Office
(103 Indraprakash Bldg., 21 Barakhamba Rd.;011/4151-9366;
fax 011/2331-9835;
www.kmvn.org
). In Nainital, the KMVN is at Oak Park House (05942/23-6356
).
A ROAD TRIP THROUGH KUMAON
Your first stop, Nainital, is set around the ebony-emerald
Naini Tal
(Lake)
—according to Hindu mythology, one of the eyes of Shiva’s wife, Sati.
Naina Devi Temple
is said to be the precise spot where Sati’s eye fell when her body parts were scattered throughout the country in a bid to stop Shiva’s “dance of cosmic destruction,” which began when he discovered that Sati had immolated herself, an act provoked by her father’s incessant insults of Shiva. High above the town, at 2,235m (7,450 ft.), is the aptly named
Snow View,
a hilltop area from where you can see Nanda Devi, India’s second-highest peak. Make use of the Aerial Express ropeway; round-trips (daily 10am–5pm) cost Rs 100. You can overnight here, but Nainital is as ghastly as most of Himachal’s towns, so we recommend you choose between the smaller Bhimtal or the picturesque
Naukuchiatal
(Nine-Cornered Lake)
—both are under 30km (19 miles) away from Nainital, and there are recommended places in Where to Stay below. According to local folklore, when you get to a point where you can see all nine corners of the lake, make a wish and it will come true. This is certainly the case if you’re looking for picture-perfect serenity, solitude, and enchanting trails, filled with wildflowers. Even if you don’t opt to overnight here, make time for a day trip and take a leisurely ride or a swim in the lake. Alternatively, head north from Nainital to remote and lovely
Mukteshwar
some 50km (30 miles) away.
On a ridge some 2,254m (7,513 ft.) above sea level, where you are surrounded by little more than dramatic views of the Himalayas, conifer forests, fruit orchards, and fresh, clean air, Mukteshwar enjoys one of the most charming settings in the Kumaon. At the edge of town, atop a cliff, is century-old
Mukteshwar Temple,
dedicated to Lord Shiva. On the same hill is an ashram administered by a hermit whose disciples come from around the world. Behind the temple, a rocky cliff juts out of the hillside at Chauthi Jaali; take an early morning walk here for stunning views.