India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (367 page)

Jilling Estate
For a real outback experience in a magnificent setting, just 17km (11 miles) from Nainital, Jilling Estate is your best choice—though not for the fainthearted or unfit. Access to this huge estate, where arch-conservationist Steve Lall, his wife, Parvati, and daughter Nandini live a couple of miles from the nearest drivable road, is only by foot or horseback; and you’ll have to lug yourself up this distance just to get through the front door. All four cottages are completely private—you won’t run into your neighbors even by chance. Facilities are rustic but extremely quaint; each room has an eclectic collection of books, and hot water for your bucket bath is heated on wooden fires by an attendant assigned to your room. Evenings are spent around a bonfire with the Lalls and their friendly mutts. Steve may even encourage you to go for a completely private hike in the woods of his estate, in the buff. Or let Parvati teach you how to milk cows.

P.O. Padampuri, District Nainital 263 136.
97-5875-5704.
Reservations: Neelam Rai Singh, Beckon Tours Pvt. Ltd., G22 1st floor, Lajpat Nagar Part 1, New Delhi 110 024.
011/2981-3546
or -1796. Fax 011/2981-4259.
www.jilling.net
. 4 units (bucket showers only). $90 double. Rate includes all meals; taxes extra. No credit cards.
Amenities:
Campfire; camping; picnic baskets; room service; table tennis; trekking.

Mountain Quail Camp & Tented Lodge
The drive to this out-of-the-way mountainside resort provides jaw-dropping views back down over the town and lake, as well as intoxicating vistas of the Himalayan range—particularly gorgeous just after sunrise, when a striking color palette whips over mountain peaks. The hill-hugging half-hour journey brings you to a remote, exquisitely peaceful site with deluxe tents and a lodge in a clearing between forested hills and terraced farmland. Opt for the tented accommodations, half of which have attached bathrooms with basin, shower (with hot water), and Western toilet. The resort is ideal for scenic walks, bird-watching, and easy treks, and even more perfect for doing nothing. Be warned that this is a popular place for groups (notably youngsters) engaged in outdoor team-building events; you might want to check that you’re not sharing the place with noisy, city-slicking teenagers.

Pangot 263 001.
94-1267-9723.
Fax 05942/23-5493. Reservations: Blaze a Trail Adventures.
98-3707-7537.
www.blazeatrailadventures.com
. 10 tents, 3 lodge units (with showers). $90 tent double; $120 lodge double. Rates include all meals. No credit cards.
Amenities:
Restaurant; railway transfers (Rs 1,200); mountain biking; doctor-on-call; fishing; horse safaris; jeep safaris; river rafting; rock climbing; trekking.

Mountain Trail
This is the best place to overnight if you want to stay in Mukteshwar itself. Mountain Trail is well-maintained and is on a terraced slope with a lovely rose garden and direct views of the Himalayas. Accommodations are large, neat, and simple. Ask for a deluxe double room; each has high-pitched ceilings, enclosed porch with exquisite views, large tiled shower, and fridge. All rooms are comfortable and spotless, and the pleasant restaurant has a working fireplace. There’s no bar or room service, but most other facilities are available, and there’s a game room with table tennis and a small library. The resort also runs a
chocolaterie,
where delicious center-filled chocolates are made with ingredients imported from Belgium.

P.O. Sargakhet, Mukteshwar 263 132.
05942/28-6040
or -6240.
www.mountaintrail.com
. Reservations: Mountain Trail Holidays, 224 Vardhaman Plaza, 9 Local Shopping Centre, I.P. Extension, Delhi 110 092.
011/2272-0675
or -0677. 12 units (with showers). Rs 3,000 double; Rs 4,500 4-bed family room. During high season (May–June) full-board packages only, from Rs 3,500 double. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
Restaurant; railway transfers (Rs 800); adventure activities; doctor-on-call; game room; library; river rafting; room service; TV lounge; yoga and meditation in summer.

The Ramgarh Bungalows
For a restful, soul-calming sojourn in atmospheric colonial accommodations that aren’t quite hotels and are definitely not homestays, Neemrana’s Ramgarh Bungalows is hard to match. Featuring deep verandas, bay windows, fireplaces, and dainty gardens bordered by chestnut trees. The Writers’ Bungalow was built in 1860, while the Old Bungalow dates from 1830; both have been given a bright, homey atmosphere with floral fabrics. Two additional bungalows, the Vista Bungalow and the Rose Cottage, were added more recently, all dressed in the same 19th-century English ambience; the Rose Cottage is perfect if you desire exclusivity and privacy: It comprises one luxury suite with a sleeping room for one couple and three children, and has a great private terrace. Many of the various and varied rooms and suites sleep three or four, making them ideal for families. Ramgarh is 24km (15 miles) from Mukteshwar; because of the remote location you must make travel arrangements and reservations in advance.