India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (366 page)

Nainital offers many accommodations, but a visit during peak season is likely to be accompanied by crowds, noise, and irritation. Duck the crowds by opting for one of the following fully reviewed options, or for one of two recommendations at Naukuchiatal:
Déjà-vu
(reservations through Corbett Trails, New Delhi;
011/4282-8232;
www.naukuchiatal.com
; Rs 2,000 per person per night) is a small, cozy, two-bedroom stand-alone cottage overlooking the lake. It comes with cable TV, DVD and music system, as well as housekeeping attendants and a cook who will prepare meals on demand; you just need to pay for ingredients. Be prepared for frequent power cuts although there is a backup inverter. For more hotel-style amenities (albeit in a concrete and stone block with plenty of face-brick and mortar),
The Lake Resort
(
05942/24-7183
or -7184;
www.lakeresort.in
; from Rs 2,400 double) is a newer hotel whose sprawling grounds hug Naukuchiatal Lake. Every room has a view of the lake; ask for the pricier log hut with wooden floors and a bathtub for two. Room nos. 1, 5, and 12 have lounge areas and fine views, but bathrooms are small. But, should you opt to overnight at Bhimtal, Fisherman’s Lodge is the perfect choice.

The Cottage
This 100-year-old house set in a 3-hectare (8-acre) orchard has herringbone-patterned wood floors, ivy-covered stone walls, and a sloping red tiled roof—all of which give it a distinctly English appearance and old-world charm, offset by the carved Kumaoni door and window frames. Each room has a private patio with wonderful views of lush green mountains. The Middle Room (where floral drapes decorating the ceiling are a tad kitschy) is the best in the house; the Blue Room is great for more privacy and better views, but a little too blue. The bed heights in the various guest rooms have been thoughtfully adjusted to give guests the best possible views. Simple, tasty meals are served in the homey living room/dining area.

Jeolikot, District Nainital 263 002.
05942/22-4013.
Fax 05942/22-4182
www.thecottagejeolikot.com
. 5 units (with en-suite showers). Rs 3,500 double. Rates include breakfast, dinner, tea, and coffee. No credit cards.
Amenities:
Dining room; railway transfer (Rs 500); badminton; doctor-on-call; room service for snacks; trekking. In room: Air cooler.

Emily Lodge
This colonial-era bungalow is the nicest homestay in Nainital. Gracious hosts Siddharth Singh and his family have a homey cottage well away from the main mall, decorated in subdued floral drapes and country-home decor. Figures of elephants and birds stenciled on the walls give the place a lively ambience in spite of the hunting-lodge atmosphere created by the old teak wood furniture, deer horns, swords, and rifles adorning the walls. Warm and comfortable, the living room has an old fireplace that’s lighted at mealtimes in cold weather; it’s also where wholesome home-cooked meals are served. Rooms are clean and bathrooms spacious. Jim Corbett’s house (Gurney House) is just a stone’s throw away, and if you are lucky the caretaker might let you in.

Ayarpata Hill, near Sherwood College, Nainital 263 002.
05942/23-5857
or 99-1702-1129;
http://emilylodgenainital.com
. 4 units (with en-suite showers). Rs 2,000–Rs 2,800 double; extra bed Rs 400. Rates include breakfast, tea/coffee. No credit cards.
Amenities:
Dining hall; railway transfers (Rs 500); board games; bonfire on request; doctor-on-call.

Fishermen’s Lodge
Rated as the best Specialty Lodging in Bhimtal by Tripadvisor and among the top 10 boutique destinations in India by local travel magazine Outlook Traveller, Fishermen’s Lodge basks in the warm comfort that is generated by a place that feels like one’s own home. Owners Bunty and Bindu have invested real effort into creating a tasteful, relaxing lodge, and impeccably trained staff. Rooms are spacious with wonderfully simple, classy interiors; the piece de resistance is the common deck overlooking the lake—having sundowners here to the accompaniment of a fabulous repertoire of nostalgic music tunes is a highlight (guests are allowed to carry their own alcohol as there is no liquor license at the Lodge). All the activities—hikes, angling, cycling—allow you to rake up an appetite for the delicious meals served by the affable Suman who will be happy to send you off with some of his culinary secrets.

Mandir Marg, Bhimtal 263 136.
0594/224-7052
or 94-1110-7852;
www.thefishermenslodge.com
. Reservations:
99-1016-2244.
12 units. Rs 8,000 double; Rs 6,000 single; additional bed (above 12 years old) Rs 2,000. Rates include breakfast, high tea and dinner. AE, MC, V.
Amenities:
Dining hall; railway transfers (Rs 500); angling; cycling; doctor-on-call; hiking. In room: Fan, fridge, heater, Wi-Fi (complimentary).