India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (66 page)

You can enjoy fare similar to Swati’s without the potentially long wait and in a quieter, more composed, setting at
Soam
(Sadguru Sadan, opposite Babulnath temple, Chowpatty;
022/2369-8080;
noon–11pm), a vegetarian joint with a bright, contemporary ambience and some dedicated healthier options on its menu.

Bandra’s famous hygienic street-food stop is
Elco Pani Puri Centre
at Elco Arcade on Hill Road (
022/2645-7677
), once a street stall that famously operated illegally, but has since expanded to include an air-conditioned restaurant that, like Kailash Parbat, uses filtered water to prepare its snacks. You can venture inside for a more staid experience, but we still prefer the spontaneous people-watching that happens outside where you stand at the efficient pani puri counter (buy your coupon at the nearby cash register first) where the delicious mouth-size morsels are handed over one by one. Afterwards, order a glass of fresh watermelon juice, and grab a plastic stool so you can tuck into a plate of bhel puri—crushed puris mixed with sev (tiny noodles made from chickpea flour), puffed rice, chopped boiled potato, onion, coriander, chili, and a couple of sweet and tangy chutneys.

Britannia
IRANI This no-nonsense, no-frills, 90-year-old Irani (Persian) restaurant is the last of a dying breed of establishments once found on every corner of South Mumbai. The environment is simple and functional, with little room for extras like presentation and ambience. Most people come here to consume one or more of three excellent dishes: Berry
pulao
(a version of the Iranian
zereshk polow
) is the outstanding signature dish, made with succulent spiced boneless mutton (or chicken), fragrant long-grain basmati rice, and tart barberries imported from Iran.
Patra ni machchi
is pomfret fish coated in chutney made with cilantro, coconut, and assorted spices; wrapped in a banana leaf; and steamed—always moist and flaky with flavors all the way down to the bone. The mutton
dhansak
is a combination of fragrant brown rice and thick
dal
in which the meat has been cooked—a dense, hearty meal that tastes a million times better than it looks. (Vegetarians, though catered to, should give this restaurant a miss.)

Ram Gulam Rd., opposite New Customs House, Ballard Estate, Fort.
022/2261-5264.
Main courses Rs 70–Rs 240. No credit cards. Mon–Sat 11:30am–4pm.

Indigo Deli
ECLECTIC/INTERNATIONAL This fabulous upmarket-yet-buzzing eatery is very much in the image of a New York delicatessen. Offering such down-to-earth fare as pastas and burgers, but also catering to the health conscious and more refined palate, the space-deprived venue packs in a lively, devoted crowd—they arrive for the Western breakfasts (served all day long), and keep going until after midnight. Besides daily specials and a la carte dishes, you can choose from a variety of imported cheeses, cold meats, and fresh breads—all of exceptional quality—that can be transformed into sandwiches of your choice; check the counter for scrumptiously fresh salads, too. There’s comfort food galore: pizzas (yes, the proper, crispy kind), near-perfect risotto, and on a hot day their tomato gazpacho really hits the spot. Prices are steep—and you’ll pay through your nose if you want a glass of wine—but the ambience is so on the pulse of Mumbai that just about anyone you talk to will mention this among their favorites in a city that’s plump with great choices.

Ground Floor, Pheroza Bldg., Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharishi Marg, Apollo Bunder.
022/6655-1010.
Sandwiches average Rs 350; main courses Rs 450–Rs 750. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 9am–12:30am.

Leopold Café
ECLECTIC Okay, so this is pretty much
the
quintessential tourist eatery, these days known as much for the buzzy atmosphere as it is as the first choice for fans of the David Gregory Roberts novel,
Shantaram
. This is where wannabe literary types come in hopes of scoping their hero or perhaps catching a moment when some of the underworld activity written about in the book actually comes to life. In reality, this is simply a very overhyped dining institution, but one you’d do well to experience (if only once, and briefly) while in Colaba. Why it’s such a hit with foreigners is a mystery, since the food is good but not exceptional, the atmosphere can be noisy and rather smoky, and bills are often wrong. If you’re keen to get the inside scoop on how Bollywood films are made, hang out here; casting agents looking for foreigners to work as extras on current productions frequently scan the clientele for able bodies at this favored travelers’ hangout.