India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (67 page)

Colaba Causeway.
022/2287-3362.
Main courses Rs 95–Rs 140. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7am–midnight.

Mahesh Lunch Home
COASTAL/SEAFOOD The ceiling may be too low and the tables too close together, but this seafood restaurant should not be missed if you love fish—it’s one of Mumbai’s best restaurants, consistently dishing out exceptional specialties. Everything is incredibly fresh, but favorites include
surmai
fry, pomfret curry, and tandoori pomfret—all outstanding. The latter (listed as a starter, but available as a main) is served flawlessly moist; eaten with butter
naan,
it provides a heavenly gastronomic experience. Also try the scrumptious prawns
Koliwada,
crab tandoori, pomfret in green masala, or any of the fish curries or
gassis,
all first-rate. (Note that
gassi
refers to the thick, spicy, coconut-based Manglorean curry, while the “curries” on the menu are a thinner version of the same.) Mahesh also serves meat, chicken, and Chinese dishes, but only the misguided would come here for any of that.

8D Cawasji Patel St., off Pherozeshah Mehta Rd., Fort.
022/2287-0938
or 022/2202-3965. Most main seafood dishes Rs 110–Rs 270; jumbo pomfret/crab/lobster Rs 400–Rs 1,700. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–4pm and 6–11:30pm.

Moshe’s
MEDITERRANEAN/LIGHT FARE This upmarket cafe showcases the culinary talents and business acumen of Moshe Shek. A Mumbaiker who honed his skills abroad before returning home to etch out his own bit of celebrity, he’s made swift work of turning this tightly packed space into a hugely successful miniempire—there are now several branches around the city, and he has a near-compulsive loyal (and sometimes very loud) following. You too should definitely turn up to sample his adventurous Middle Eastern fusion food, or even just to try out his sandwiches, snacks, or impressive breakfasts (the smoothies and health drinks are brilliant). Inspired by his time in Israel (Shek is Jewish), he turns out some very tasty specialty dishes like Turkish
turlu turlu
(roasted vegetables), chicken stuffed with couscous and pine nuts, and tagines from Morocco. And despite going slightly commercial, he also likes to experiment—the coffee bean–infused chicken is quite something. Evenings can get a bit crazy in here as the crowds inevitably turn up—but that might be half the fun, and certainly a clue as to this place’s enduring popularity.

7 Minoo Manor, Cuffe Parade, Colaba.
022/2216-1226.
Main courses Rs 250–Rs 575, breakfast Rs 50–Rs 200, sandwiches Rs 170–Rs 200. AE, MC, V. Daily 7:30am–midnight.

Feeling Peckish?

Towards the southern end of Colaba Causeway is one food treat spot you shouldn’t pass by.
Theobroma
(Cusrow Baug, Shop no. 24, Colaba Causeway;
022/6529-2929
) is a small, quite marvelous bakery run by Kainaz Messman and her mother, Kamal, who make you feel immediately at home. You can sit at one of the few tables and nibble on their famous brownies (there are 10 varieties to choose from) or one of the other innumerable rich desserts and pastries. If you’re not the sweet tooth type, you can choose from various gourmet-quality sandwiches (try the chicken pesto), or freshly baked breads, the best of which is the light, flavorful focaccia.

Samovar
INDIAN/LIGHT FARE This long, narrow restaurant inside Jehangir Art Gallery is another South Mumbai institution that has retained its charm and low prices in spite of its popularity. With quick, efficient service and a policy of not hurrying diners even if others are waiting, this is the perfect stopover after a day roaming the Prince of Wales museum and other local landmarks. Start with a delicious seasonal fruit juice—the guava juice is the best when it’s in season.
Boti
rolls (spiced meat wrapped in chapatis) rival with
parathas
(fried breads with a great assortment of stuffings) to satiate the taste buds along with the yummy bean-sprout salad. A stop here is a must: This is as close to home cooking as you are likely to get on a short visit to Mumbai. At press time, there was some talk of Samovar closing down, so call ahead to check.

Jehangir Art Gallery, Kala Ghoda, Fort.
022/2284-8000.
Main courses Rs 50–Rs 160. No credit cards. Mon–Sat 11am–7pm.

What’s Up with Udipi?

Restaurants serving South Indian fast food (also called Udipi restaurants) can be found on just about every street, and a meal at one is an essential Mumbai experience. The Udipi phenomenon arrived in Mumbai in 1935 when Rama Nayak, a Kannadiga (migrant from Karnataka) entrepreneur started the legendary Udipi Boarding House in Fort. Serving traditional, nourishing, pure vegetarian meals, it was named after the town near his home village, and after he later opened two more restaurants with Udipi in the name and other migrants from western Karnataka cottoned onto the same business idea, “Udipi” became the generic moniker used by Mumbaikers when referring to South Indian eateries. There are plenty of places to choose from—in fact, one official statistic states that Kannadigas own 70% of the city’s 11,000 or so officially licensed restaurants—but if you sample only one and are willing to go the extra mile, make it one of our two favorites in the South Indian hub of
Matunga.
At the compact
Café Madras
(King’s Circle;
022/2401-4419;
Tues–Sun 7am–2:30pm and 4–11pm) it’s Tamilian-style dosas that reign supreme, and it’s worth sampling a few different varieties (check the chalkboard for the day’s specials) to see what a difference the type of flour makes. For an authentic South Indian thali, you’ve simply got to try
A. Ramanayak Udipi Shri Krishna Boarding
(Lal Bahadur Shastri Market Bldg., first floor, near Matunga Railway Station;
022/2414-2422;
Tues–Sun 10:30am–2:30pm and 7–10pm), now run by Rama Nayak’s son. Purchase a coupon for either a limited or unlimited thali, and grab a seat; you can expect a no-frills experience where food—chapattis or puris, vegetables, dal, curd, and rice—is served on a banana leaf, and you eat with your hands. You’ll also get a cup of buttermilk, and, when you’re just about done, a sweet dessert.