India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (71 page)

6 Shopping

From internationally renowned haute couture to dirt-cheap one-season wonders, intricate jewelry and unique antiques to tawdry gifts and fabulous textiles, Mumbai is known as a shopper’s paradise, and you’ll find pretty much everything the country has to offer here. If you’re shopping on the street or in the markets (see “Markets,” earlier in this chapter), take your time, sift and sort, establish authenticity, and, if necessary, don’t be afraid to bargain hard. Bear in mind that (as elsewhere in India) a “bargain,” particularly when it comes to jewelry and antiques, is probably a cheap bauble or reproduction—fakes are a dime a dozen, as are the con men who sell them. By and large, you can steer clear of the kitschy outlets that line Colaba Causeway and the surrounding area, but be on the lookout for little gems that may be hiding down a side street (we’ve mentioned quite a few below). Besides the areas described here, you will find that the suburb of Bandra has become a local shopping haven, with Linking Road, Hill Road, and several other streets overflowing with shops and street stalls selling clothes, shoes, and everything else under the sun. In addition, Western-style multistory department stores are filled with all kinds of garments and fashions, and the trend towards a fully-fledged mall culture is definitely in full gear—sadly (for some), most of the shops are Western franchises, meaning you need to hunt a bit to discover underrepresented local outlets. You’ll find several shopping complexes in the converted mill compounds of Lower Parel (right next to Worli, in central Mumbai)—the Phoenix Mills area is a shopper’s dream. Note, too, that most major stores described below have a parallel store in either Bandra or Juhu, so if you’re based in north Mumbai, call and check before making a trip downtown. If you don’t mind a potentially massive capital outlay, it’s worth knowing that the in-house shops at the Taj Mahal Palace & Tower are stocked with sought-after Indian (and international) brands and products (particularly Pashmina shawls, from simple water Pashminas at around Rs 2,000 to high-end quality ones for Rs 10,000), though obviously you pay a price for the convenience of location, and the shopping experience is relatively sterile. The same holds true for the shopping arcade at the
Trident Nariman Point.

Shopping Beneath the Grandstand

If you choose to make an event out of just one shopping venue, we urge you to head for
Bungalow 8
, a fabulously eclectic store stashed into an elegantly converted space beneath the benches of world-famous Wankhede cricket stadium. Beautifully laid out, with vintage furniture as a backdrop, and stocked with all kinds of curious, beautiful, wearable, and collectible objects—from jewelry and clothing to chandeliers—Maitthili Ahluwalia’s gorgeous store is a destination in its own right. The shop is located under the stadium’s north stand (Vinoo Mankad Rd.), in block E-F; your cab driver will get you to the stadium, but call
022/2281-9880
if you need help finding the exact spot—you wouldn’t want to end up in the home team’s dressing room, would you? Check it out at
www.bungaloweight.com
.

INDIAN HANDICRAFTS & TRADITONAL SOUVENIRS

Central Cottage Industries Emporium
(behind Regal Cinema;
022/2202-6564
or -7537; daily 10am–7pm) is the large, government-owned, fixed-price shop aimed at tourists, with a reputation for carrying well-crafted items that offer relatively good value (not the cheapest stuff out there but you won’t get ripped off). Established during the late 1940s in an attempt to sustain traditional handicrafts, the massive showroom is crammed full of everything and anything that’s likely to remind you of India. We’re not recommending it, but at the very least, a visit here will give you an idea of what items should more or less cost. A far superior shopping experience, with a more up-to-date look and contemporary service standards, is
The Bombay Store
(Sir P.M. Rd., Fort;
022/2288-5048,
-5049, or -5052; Mon–Sat 10:30am–7:30pm, Sun 10:30am–6:30pm), where you’ll find every imaginable Indian handicraft and design, from bed linens and crockery to incense and aromatherapy oils (not to mention some very touristy souvenirs bearing the store’s own logo). An alternative branch that we like is in the High Street Phoenix Mills complex in Lower Parel (it’s in a tucked away section of the mall;
022/2497-1024
); among the usual stock of sandalwood Buddha statues, candle stands, leather accessories, and homewards, they sell a range of handsomely packaged “Chaitime” teas (ideal gifts), as well as vintage photographs of the city. Directly opposite, is an even more fascinating store,
Omved
(
022/4004-8218
), selling mostly organic products, including textiles made from organic cottons (from which they fashion luxurious bed linens and T-shirts), organic spices, massage oils and toiletries (for men and women), and 100% natural, Ayurvedically treated baby products. If you want to give something back (and don’t mind getting something lovely in return), visit
WIT
(Women’s India Trust)
(23 Bombay Market, Tardeo;
022/2351-1753;
www.wit.org.in
) where a wide range of handcrafted items—from soft toys to unique artworks—are produced by a charitable organization that trains women from underprivileged backgrounds, providing skills and opportunities to many people who might otherwise be destitute. Shoppers who care should also visit
Shrujan—Threads of Life
(Saagar Villa, 38 Bhulabahi Desai Rd., Breach Candy;
022/2352-1693;
www.shrujan.org
) where you can pick up homewards and ethnic designer wear embroidered by a women’s collective from the drought- and earthquake-affected region of Kutch (in Gujarat); they produce truly stunning one-off pieces, so this is well worth a visit. Finally,
Dhoop
(101 Khar Sheetal Apartments, Dr. Ambedkar Rd., Unio Park, Khar
;