India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (80 page)

Before You Queue in Club Land

Club entry fees differ depending on the night, and prices are typically per (heterosexual) couple; you’ll usually get the price of admission back in coupons that can be exchanged for overpriced drinks at the bar. Many nightclubs charge extra for males entering alone, while most don’t allow “stag” entry at all, though foreigners may sometimes sidestep this rule (and your concierge—if you’re staying at the right kind of establishment—should be able to arrange a seamless passage through the front door). Closing times vary each night; there are “official” (currently 1:30am) and unofficial hours—which essentially means that clubs may stay open later than the time stipulated by law. The popularity of a club is sustained only if it can keep the cops out and stay open into the wee hours of the morning (five-star clubs can remain open until 3am, since they are inside private hotels). If you’re traveling on a budget, you may want to take a page out of a hard-partying Mumbaikar’s book and tank up at one of the city’s watering holes before heading to a nightclub, where drink prices are usually exorbitant. In general, fun-loving locals hit more than one nightclub/bar/lounge per evening throughout this island city; if you hook up with a group, you may want to join them—although you should be extremely wary of getting in a car driven by someone who is drinking.

Bling
For late-night celebrity spotting, this is probably your very best bet, and hot-to-trot Mumbaikers are happy to travel this far north—to The Leela Kempinski hotel near the airports to rub shoulders with the hippest of the hip. Owned by well-known DJ Akin, you can expect a fair mix of house, commercial, and Bollywood tracks spun to satisfy an appreciative crowd. Open Wednesday to Saturday, 10pm to 3am; Rs 1,000 per couple. The Leela Kempinski, Sahar, Andheri (W).
022/6691-1338.

Enigma
Some call it sleazy—packed with pot-bellied Bollywood producers and would-be starlets dressed to seduce them—but this is nevertheless one of Mumbai’s hottest nightspots. Although we think of it more as a study in the anthropology of excess and the cult of celebrity, you’re welcome to join the bright shining stars on the large dance-floor (DJs play a mix of commercial tracks from the West and up-to-date Bollywood favorites), or at least watch the heady, intoxicating scene from the relative safety of the circular central bar (be warned—drinks ain’t cheap). Marriot hotel guests (and silver screen superstars) get to jump the invariably long queue outside. Open Wednesday to Saturday; entrance is Rs 1,000 to Rs 2,500 per couple, with coupons redeemable for drinks. JW Marriott, Juhu Tara Rd., Juhu Beach.
022/6693-3000.

Play
In the heart of the gentrified Phoenix Mills Compound, Play is the updated incarnation of Ra, but still plays the latest rage in loud music, from hip-hop to Hindi remixes—but it is undeniably obsessed with all things Bollywood, so definitely the place to come if you want to learn some silver screen dance moves. The bar
(Voyeur)
is separate from the dance areas, but both attract an extremely upbeat (and rather young) crowd on weekends. Open Wednesday to Saturday 9pm to 1:30am; entry costs R1,500 per couple. Phoenix Mills Complex, 462 Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel.
022/6661-4343.

Poison
For Mumbaikers who really like to strut their stuff to the hottest beats (especially when the decks are manned by international DJs who are flown in from time to time), this is probably the hippest club in Mumbai. With a decent-size dance floor and a trendy international look. If you go on a Saturday night, you’ll be one of at least a thousand guests! But don’t worry: The club has 930 sq. m (10,000 sq. ft.) of space, and the air-conditioning still manages to work with that many bodies around. Bouncers at the door enforce a strict dress code: no shorts, sandals, saris,
salwar
suits, and (sorry, guys) no stags. Open Tuesday to Saturday 9:30pm to 1:30am; entry is Rs 1,000 to Rs 1,500 per couple. Basement, Krystal, 206 Waterfield Rd., Bandra (W).
022/2642-3006.

Polly Esther’s
Although we think this überpopular Colaba nightclub is way past its prime, it continues to attract a heady crowd—from teenyboppers to 40-somethings—with its mix of predictable mix of Bollywood, pop, and ’80s music. The retro theme is echoed in posters of Michael Jackson and Madonna, while a roving Polaroid man takes your picture for Rs 100. There’s plenty of space so things never feel cramped and crowded, but it’s never going to be considered sexy or swanky, either. Open Tuesday to Sunday 9pm to 3am; entry from Rs 1,000 per couple. Gordon House Hotel, Apollo Bunder, Colaba.
022/2287-1122.