India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) (245 page)

If you want a theme restaurant and are in the Gurgaon area, head for the Garden of Five Senses and grab a table at
Baujee ka Dhaba
(Saed Ul Ajab;
011/2953-5847;
http://baujeekadhaba.com
), where folk art decorates the mud-effect walls, and even the waitstaff is in traditional garb. The food is distinctively Mughlai and Punjabi fare, rich and heavy, but unquestionably well made and delicious. Get the ever-popular
shammi
kebab or
dum pukht
chicken. Or just nibble on assorted kebabs while you enjoy a reasonably priced chilled beer. A fairly recent addition to a Delhi dining scene is
Oh! Calcutta
(E Block, International Trade Towers, Nehru Place;
011/2646-4180;
www.speciality.co.in
), which is obsessed with just one thing: authentic, excellent Bengali cuisine. A visit here should be prefaced with a warning, though: Don’t come for the decor, service, or even the slightest hint of romantic atmosphere. The only thing you get by way of entertainment is the opportunity to watch dozens of local middle-class families who are, like you, here for reliable, reasonably priced meals. And the food really is scrumptious, which takes the bite out of the surly demeanor of the waiters (who nevertheless make very competent recommendations, so bear with them).

Chor Bizarre
NORTH INDIAN/KASHMIRI A fantasy of kitsch twisted into a unique space that is more irreverent museum than restaurant, Chor Bizarre (a pun on
chor bazaar,
literally “thieves’ market”) lives up to its name. It’s packed with fascinating odds and ends (matchboxes, coins, chessboards, antique combs, ivory sandals, jewelry, chandeliers, a jukebox) and out-of-place furnishings (one table was previously a maharaja’s bed, while a 1927 vintage Fiat has become the buffet-carrying “
Chaat
mobile”). This has to be one of India’s most visually dynamic restaurants, a branch of which is now also open in London. Start with deep-fried lotus roots, prepared Kashmiri-style, and move on to
kakori kebab,
lamb marinated in 36 different spices and grilled in a tandoor, or cardamom-flavored lamb meatballs
(goshtaba)
. Or order the Kashmiri
tarami
(thali), filled with treats and served from a traditional royal platter. (
Tip:
Avoid their extremely dull walking tour-cum-lunch package)

Hotel Broadway, 4/15 A Asaf Ali Rd. (Central New Delhi).
011/2327-3821.
www.chorbizarrerestaurant.com
. Main courses Rs 155–Rs 365; Rs 495 tarami. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–3:30pm and 7:30–11:30pm.

It’s Greek to Me
GREEK Whitewashed walls with cerulean blue windows and doors beckon you into India’s first and only Greek restaurant. The food is authentic, the crowd is noisy as it would be in a typical Greek eatery, and you’re even given plates to break—but only if you’re disappointed with the meal. Three levels of decor to suit your mood—iron and wood on the lowest, low seating with dim lighting in the mezzanine, high chairs and a rocking atmosphere in the uppermost lounge-cum-bar. Start with
avgolemono
(typical Greek soup with eggs, lemon, and cream), followed by a dip platter (each excellent), or salads, and for the mains there are all the classics:
moussaka
(baked lamb mince, eggplant, and cheese),
spanokopita
(sautéed spinach with feta cheese in layers), or the excellent baked chicken
vasilikos
(seared chicken breast with scarmoza cheese, ham, and mushrooms). Round off with homemade fig ice cream.

B-6/4 Commercial Complex, Safdurjung Enclave.
011/4101-2240.
www.itsgreektome.com
. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses Rs 400–Rs 600. AE, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3:30pm, 7pm–midnight; lounge closed Mon.

Park Balluchi
MUGHLAI/AFGHANI Turbaned waiters in this award-winning restaurant serve an extensive and exciting range of kebabs and spicy tandoor items in a parklike atmosphere. Come for lunch and you may glimpse rabbits and peacocks, or one of the 300 deer that roam the park. The specialty at Balluchi is the
sangam seekh,
tantalizing combinations of two meats (chicken and mutton marinated in herbs); try the Afghani-style
murgh-potli—
tandoori-prepared
chicken breast stuffed with minced mutton and served over a flaming sword. Other favorites include
raan sikandari,
roast leg of lamb marinated in herbs, spices, and rum and then grilled in the tandoor. Vegetarians should order
mewa paneer tukra,
paneer stuffed with raisins, sultanas, walnuts, and other nuts; preparation of this dish takes at least 12 hours. Be sure to get a side order of
peshawri naan,
bread cooked in the tandoor oven with poppy seeds and coriander leaves.

Deer Park, Hauz Khas Village.
011/2685-9369
or 011/2696-9829. Reservations for dinner and weekends essential. Main courses Rs 190–Rs 780. 5% service charge extra. AE, MC, V. Daily noon–11:45pm.