Mastering the Craft of Making Sausage (6 page)

Because collagen casings are uniform, and because their use requires less labor than natural casings, they are widely used by commercial processors even though they are a little more expensive than natural casings. People who do not want to eat sausage that has been stuffed in animal “guts” use them. Collagen casings are also useful for making kosher sausage.

The various types of collagen casings are explained below.

ROUND COLLAGEN CASING (SLEEVES)

Round collagen casing is manufactured as a long, smooth tube, and then compressed into a much shorter tube of accordion-like pleats. The resulting
sleeve
is slid on the metal or plastic stuffing tube in much the same way that a shirtsleeve is slid onto an arm. When a sausage is stuffed, the pleats are pulled off the end of the tube a few at a time. (These sleeves are also called
strand collagen casings
.)

Some stuffing tubes are shorter than the collagen sleeve, and some stuffing tubes are tapered (the overall diameter of the tube may be greater near the stuffer). In these cases, the collagen sleeve may need to be cut in half in order to expose the end of the stuffing tube when the sleeve is slid on the tube.

As indicated above, there are two kinds of collagen casing sleeves. One type has thin walls, and it is used mainly for fresh sausages. If this casing is used for smoked sausage, the links must be laid on a smoking rack because the casing will tear if the links are hung in coils. The type of collagen casing with thicker walls is used for smoked sausages that will be hung in coils on a support rod. The thicker casing is strong enough to support the weight of the sausage coil without tearing. Both types must be stored in an airtight plastic bag in the refrigerator to prevent them from becoming dry and brittle. Both types are stuffed dry; they must
not
be soaked in water before using.

Both the thick wall casings and the thin wall casings are more difficult to stuff than natural casings because they are not elastic. Because natural casings will stretch, they are more forgiving if the sausage is slightly overstuffed or insufficiently stuffed. In addition, if collagen casings are twisted into links, they will unwind. Consequently, it is best to divide the sausage rope into links with butcher’s twine rather than twisting it into links.

The casing with a thin wall is very tender and is a pleasure to eat. The type with a thick wall is technically edible, but few people eat the casing because it is very tough.

In my opinion, the bottom line for collagen casing sleeves (strand collagen casing) is this:

• For the home sausage maker, the thick wall type has no redeeming merits at all, unless natural casings cannot be used for personal reasons.

• The thin wall type might be considered if the negative points can be tolerated. The cost and the tenderness of this casing are comparable to sheep casing. It can be used for smoked sausage if the links are laid on a smoking rack instead of hung on rods.

FLAT COLLAGEN CASING

Flat collagen casings look similar to synthetic fibrous casings, and they, too, are used to stuff salami-size sausage and luncheon meat. They are not edible, even though they are made of collagen, and they must be soaked in salted water before use. If casing made of natural material is an important factor to the sausage maker, this casing may be of interest. However, flat collagen casings are not as strong as synthetic fibrous casings, and they must be stuffed more gently. If you intend to use these casings, please read the recommendations in the next paragraph regarding casing diameter and length. These size recommendations apply to flat collagen casings as well as to synthetic fibrous casings.

SYNTHETIC FIBROUS CASING

Synthetic fibrous casings are very useful for large-diameter snack sausages or lunchmeat sausages. These casings are not edible, but they are very strong, and they will not tear while they are being stuffed. Fibrous casings are available in diameters ranging from 1½ inches (38 mm) to over 4¾ inches (120 mm). If fibrous casings are used, it is best for the beginner to use casings of no more than about 2½ inches (63 mm) in diameter, and no more than 12 inches (30 cm) long. This size is easier to process, and the cooking time will be faster than it is for casings with larger diameters. In this book, this size is usually recommended for the sausages that are stuffed in fibrous casings. To make them supple, synthetic fibrous casings are soaked in warm water before stuffing. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If the instructions are not available, soak them in warm water for 20 or 30 minutes before use. Be sure to flood the inside with water.

Depending on the vendor, sometimes the fibrous casings are not closed on the bottom, or sometimes they are sold in 24-inch (60 cm) lengths only, and need to be cut in half. If the casings are not closed on the bottom, or if they need to be cut, common twine may be used to close them. However, a great deal of pressure is put on the bottom closure when the sausage is being stuffed. Consequently, if it is tied with twine, the very strong
butterfly tie
(also called
butterfly knot)
should be used. The top portion of the photograph demonstrates how to close the end of a synthetic fibrous casing with the butterfly tie:

• Cut a length of twine—about 5 inches (13 cm) long.

• Fold the end of the casing in zigzag-like pleats. (It is best to use something like a clothespin or a paper clamp to hold the pleats in the folded position.)

• Tie the end of the casing with a common square knot about ¾ inch (2 cm) from the end.

• Bring the ends of the twine around the bottom of the casing, and tie another square knot in such a way that the ends of the casing flare (“butterfly”) to the left and right.

Another way to close a casing on the bottom is to use an aluminum casing clip. Please see the
Casing clips
section of this chapter (below).

Fibrous casings are sold in two colors: clear and mahogany. The “clear” casings are actually translucent and resemble very strong wax paper. They acquire a beautiful reddish-brown color when they are smoked. However, if the sausage is not smoked, the clear casing looks pale and anemic. The mahogany-colored casing, on the other hand, looks good no matter how the sausage is processed.

Fibrous casings do have one small negative point: They are not waterproof, although they are water resistant and remain strong when wet. Instructions on cooking sausage in Chapter 6 describe how this minor negative point can be addressed.

MUSLIN CASING

Finally, you may make casings of muslin. Such casings may sometimes be used in place of synthetic fibrous casings, and they are traditionally used for German liver sausages such as Braunschweiger, liverwurst, and some salami-like sausages. Because the muslin absorbs moisture readily, it is best that they not be used for steamed or poached sausage. Hot smoked sausages are the best use for muslin casings.

Tear—do not cut—a strip of muslin 8 inches (20 cm) wide and about 12 inches (30 cm) long. (To the extent possible, the material should be torn rather than cut; tearing reduces the amount of cloth fibers that will get into the sausage.) Fold the strip in half lengthwise. The folded cloth will now measure about 4 inches (10 cm) wide. Sew it along the side and around one end; this will produce a round casing with a diameter of about 2¼ inches (5.7 cm). If the cloth material is new, it is best to launder it before it is used. Laundering will remove the fabric conditioners that are present in new material. Turn this closed-end tube inside out, wet it with vinegar, and stuff it with sausage. The vinegar prevents the cloth from bonding to the sausage.

CELLULOSE CASING

Cellulose casings are not edible, and they must be removed before the sausage is eaten. They are used for skinless sausages, such as breakfast links, hot dogs, and Mexican chorizo. When sausage links are cooked, the protein in the meat just under the casings coagulates and makes a natural “skin” that holds the sausage together when the cellulose casing is removed. Skinless frankfurters are made in this way. (If you look closely at a commercially made skinless frankfurter, you will be able to see a faint slit mark where a sharp blade has cut through the cellulose casing to facilitate its removal.) Home sausage makers rarely use cellulose casings, and they are not suggested for use in this book. However, if you want to try them, contact Allied Kenco Sales (please see Appendix 5).

PLASTIC CASING

The price of plastic casing is about the same as fibrous casing. Because it is waterproof (if care is taken to seal the ends properly), plastic casing is useful for large sausages that will be steamed or poached. The use of a waterproof plastic casing for steaming or poaching ensures that the sausage will not be harmed by water entering the casing. However, smoke will not penetrate plastic, so they should not be used for sausage that will be smoked.

The use of plastic food wrap when steaming or poaching fibrous casings helps to provide water-resistant properties similar to those of plastic casings. Please see Chapter 6 for details.

Plastic casings are more difficult to obtain than fibrous casings, but one source is PS Seasoning & Spices, a company that sells sausage-making equipment and supplies
.
PS Seasoning & Spices offers two sizes: 2½-inch (6.35 cm) diameter and 4-inch (9.8 cm) diameter, and both are orange. Please see Appendix 5 for contact information.

GROUND MEAT BAGS

Ground meat bags resemble plastic casings. They may be used for breakfast sausage; the raw breakfast sausage is stuffed in the bag, chilled, and then sliced into round, patty-like disks and fried. They are not suggested for use in this book, but most mail-order suppliers can supply them. (See Appendix 5.)

Casing Clips

An aluminum cap-like device called a
casing clip
can be used to close the end of a synthetic fibrous casing. (Some retailers may still use the original name,
Clark clamp
.) First, the end of the casing is folded several times until it is small enough to fit inside the casing clip. Next, this folded end of the casing is inserted into the clip, and the clip is secured by squeezing it with pliers. They are easy to apply, and they provide a dependable closure for the end of the casing. There is a photo of a casing clip in the
Synthetic fibrous casing
section earlier in this chapter. Casing clips can be purchased wherever sausage-making supplies are sold; please see Appendix 5.

Curing Powder

The following is a bit technical, but a basic understanding of curing powders is necessary for those who make sausage.

Curing powder is also known as
Cure #1, Cure #2, pink salt, pink powder
, or
cure
. It normally contains either sodium nitr
ite
(NaNO
₂
) or a combination of sodium nitr
ite
and sodium nitr
ate
(NaNO
₃
). These preparations are widely used by commercial meat processors, amateur smokers, and sausage makers. Many sausage formulas presented in this book require a curing powder.