Mission: Cook! (22 page)

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Authors: Robert Irvine

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Greens taste wonderful with olive oil, a sprinkling of salt and pepper, maybe a few shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano, for a reason. Throw in a fresh, ripe tomato and some cured olives, pair your salad with a lean protein, say grilled lamb or chicken, squeeze the juice of a lemon over the top of it all, and add some freshly harvested herbs, like oregano or thyme, and you have the basic Mediterranean diet. Eat as much of this as you want until you are
satisfied,
and you will be doing your body a lot of good. Conversely, eat three fast-food burgers a day, dripping with “special sauce,” paired with a bag of fries and a sugary soda, and by the end of a week you'll feel as if you're ready for a trip to the emergency room.

*
I specify a “healthy” body because in some conditions, like diabetes or celiac disease, or in the case of food allergies, for example, the body offers a metabolic or systemic resistance to “healthy” eating. In the case of celiac disease, affected people may continue to gorge on certain foods because they are prevented from absorbing the nutrients in them. The body's intolerance to gluten disables the nutrient-absorbing villi in the small intestine and only after a period of abstinence and healing can the body's craving be satisfied. Again, try to listen to your body. If you suspect you have a problem, consult your physician so you know what you may be up against.

The body craves a sense of completeness and balance from the fuel we feed it, and I strive to integrate this idea whenever I construct a recipe. I try to pair hot with cold, moist with crispy, savory with sweet in the same way that a painter controls color, or a composer controls tone and rhythm.

The body's instinctual response to this input from the foods we eat, if we eat them in the correct proportions, is to send signals to the brain to stop eating when satisfaction has been reached and when the body's needs have been provided. Even a little bit of pungent red cayenne pepper added to a dish sends an earlier signal of “fullness” to the brain than simply salting or buttering a dish will provide. The body wants and needs to experience the bitter with the sweet, the astringent with the salty. What is the reason that the body requires all of these tastes to be healthy? It is another facet of the pleasure provided by eating, really, because it provides the pleasure of being in balance, physically and even spiritually, with the foods you eat.

I know of a study that was conducted wherein restaurantgoers were given either butter or olive oil with their bread at table before a meal. Upon observation, it was determined that whilst diners sopped more olive oil per slice than the butter spreaders used butter, they ate fewer pieces of bread and consumed substantially fewer calories, by
choice.
Food psychologists felt that this may be because the olive oil has a stronger, more complex flavor than butter, and that diners felt more satisfied more quickly with the olive oil than with the butter.

Compare the experience of reading a great story or listening to a great piece of music, of watching a great movie or TV show, with the vacuous feeling of sitting and clicking on channel after channel with your remote control, that feeling of “500 channels and nothing's on.” You fill the same amount of minutes with your remote control, but the experience leaves you empty and depressed. Feeding on an entire carton of ice cream, a bag of potato chips, or a box of chocolate chip cookies has the same dulling effect. There's an expression in computer programming called GIGO, or “garbage in, garbage out.” These scenarios apply to your diet as to anything else in life. Search your feelings about how you eat, observe your own eating behaviors, get in touch with your body, and you will soon be able to determine what works for you and what doesn't.

Pan-Seared Salmon, Haricot Vert Salad, and Herbed Mustard Dressing
SERVES
6

FOR THE BEAN SALAD

1 pound haricots verts (very thin string beans)

1 medium red onion, finely diced

2 tomatoes (seeds removed), finely diced

FOR THE MUSTARD DRESSING

2 limes

¼ cup fresh chopped rosemary

1
/
8
cup fresh chopped tarragon

¼ cup fresh chopped cilantro

3 tablespoons stone-ground mustard

1
/
8
cup rice wine vinegar

1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger

½ cup grapeseed oil (or your choice of olive oil or canola oil)

2 ounces bottled water

Sea salt and pepper to taste

FOR THE SALMON

6 salmon fillets (8-ounce size for dinner or 5-ounce size for lunch)

Coarse sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Oil

Microcelery, for garnish

Fresh lime slices, for garnish

EQUIPMENT

A blender

A large bowl of ice water

This recipe is one of my all-time favorites and actually came to me in an unusual way. I was attending what many people know as a progressive dinner. Each course is served at a different participant's home—or at a different restaurant—and the party travels from one place to another within a close proximity. This one was organized by a yacht club at the New Jersey shore, on a bright sunny day by the water. (How much better does it get?) Anyway I had visited one of the homes and tried this bean salad, which I thought really had some promise. Apparently the recipe had been handed down from one friend to another over some generations, and was quite good, although I thought a couple of other ingredients would put this into orbit, flavorwise.

So, after many tries to perfect what I thought the correct texture and flavor profile should be, I finally got there-A GREAT BEAN SALAD! I think this recipe has great balance and is a good gauge to help determine your own level of eating satisfaction.

First,
blanch the haricots verts in salted boiling water until al dente (or cooked to your liking). Once this is done, drain the beans into a strainer or colander, and then they should be shocked by dunking the strainer of beans into a waiting bowl of ice water to stop the cooking process, which will also help them retain a great color. Drain and set aside in the refrigerator until needed.

Place one of the limes in a small microwave-safe bowl and microwave it until the essential oils in the skin are released. (This usually takes 30 seconds to 1 minute. Listen while it is microwaving and you will actually hear the “whoosh” sound when the oils are released, after which you can remove it and see the oils in the bottom of the bowl.) Then repeat with the second lime. I am having you microwave them one at a time because the ripeness and size of each lime may be different, requiring a different amount of time for the “whoosh” to occur for each. These limes will be hot coming from the microwave, so you can let them cool enough to handle before squeezing them. Make sure you use the oils in the bottom of the small bowl, as well as the juice that is squeezed.

Turn on the blender and through the feed tube, add the rosemary, tarragon,
cilantro, stone-ground mustard, rice wine vinegar, and fresh ginger, and blend together until a smooth paste has formed.

At this point the limes should be cool enough to squeeze. With the power on, add the lime juice through the blender feed tube, and then very slowly add the oil and water until the mixture thickens and can coat the back of a spoon.

Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper. Set aside in the refrigerator until needed. (When chilled, the dressing should resemble something like mayonnaise.)

Reserve some of the dressing to drizzle on the plate later. Then, mix the beans, onion, and tomatoes with the dressing (adjusting the amount to your preference), and refrigerate for only a couple of hours.
(Don't mix too far ahead, because the salad ingredients will bleed and you will have a very runny dressing.)

To prepare the salmon: season the fillets with salt and pepper. Place a little oil into a sauté pan and bring to the smoking point (you need a hot pan in order to get a crispy outside).

Cook the salmon, skin side down, undisturbed for about 5 minutes, or until the skin begins to get crispy, then turn and begin cooking for 5 minutes more. (You may need more time on the salmon depending on the thickness). You can, if you wish, finish the salmon in the oven at 375 degrees. However,
do not overcook the salmon.
Once you touch the flesh and it springs back up, it's cooked. Remember, the fish will continue to cook a further 15 to 20 minutes after it is removed from the oven. This is called carryover cooking.

PRESENTATION

To plate, take a little haricot bean salad and place it in the center of a plate, top with the crispy salmon, and drizzle with some of the herbed mustard dressing. Place the micro-celery and fresh lime slice on top of the salmon. Yummy! A truly amazing dish any time of the year!

T
HE FOODS YOU EAT SHOULD SERVE NATURE'S PURPOSE TO PROVIDE EQUI-
librium within the body. How purely pleasant it is to arrive at the dinner table with a healthy appetite, enjoy a balanced meal that features a symphony of the tastes and textures that you are hungry for, and then to feel not crammed to the point of bursting, but completely satisfied. The sound you are aiming for is not a strained, painful “oooohh”; it's a contented “aah.”

Listen to your body and pay attention to it when it's trying to tell you it is fully sated and happy. This is the last time I'll say it: respect your food, respect your body, and do not overeat!

Mixed Vegetable Curry
SERVES
4
TO
6

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

2 onions, sliced

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon chili powder

2 teaspoons chopped fresh root ginger

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 small eggplant, thinly sliced

1 potato, cubed

1 green bell pepper, deseeded and sliced

2 zucchini, sliced

One 14-ounce can chopped tomatoes

2 fresh green chiles, deseeded and chopped

2 ounces frozen peas

Salt

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME

Ingredients prep: 15 minutes

40 minutes to cook

Heat
the oil over medium-high heat in a large wok or heavy-bottomed saucepan, stir in the fennel seeds, and cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add the onions and cook for 5 minutes until lightly browned. Lower the heat, add the coriander, cumin, and chili powder, and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the fresh ginger, garlic, eggplant, and potato, mix well, and cook for 15 minutes.

Add the green pepper, zucchini, tomatoes with their juice, chiles, and salt to taste. Bring slowly to a boil, then simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes.

Stir in the peas and cook for 3 minutes. Season with salt as needed. Transfer the curry to a warmed serving dish and serve at once with naan or chapati.

A Note on the Breads
Naan is a leavened bread eaten in North India and environs. Chapati is a flattened disk of Indian bread eaten in South Asia. (See my recipes for Chapati with Onions and Pork Vindaloo.)

Rogan Josh (Lamb with Tomatoes and Almonds)
SERVES
4

FOR THE MASALA PASTE

1 tablespoon fresh root ginger, peeled

6 to 7 garlic cloves

1 blade of mace (
¼
teaspoon ground mace)

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

4 whole cloves 12 peppercorns

2 ounces almonds, blanched

2 large cardamom pods

Pinch of saffron threads

1 tablespoon poppy seeds, dry-roasted

FOR THE LAMB

2 ounces (
1
/
8
cup) ghee or clarified butter

1 onion, finely chopped

5 small green cardamom pods

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1½ teaspoons paprika

1 teaspoon ground coriander

¼ pint (4 ounces) natural yogurt

One 8-ounce can tomatoes, finely chopped

1 pound boned leg of lamb, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 teaspoon salt

Chopped fresh cilantro leaves

EQUIPMENT

A wok

A food processor

PREPARATION AND COOKING TIME

30 minutes to prepare

1 hour 20 minutes to cook

I am fascinated whenever I get into a discussion about ayurvedic principles of eating with someone who knows what they are talking about. Many of the Indian notions of balancing hot with cool, with understanding your body type and metabolism, and matching foods that will help to keep you on an even keel mentally and physically, resonate deeply with what I think I know and understand about food. And as a true Englishman, I have never turned my back on a good curry.

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