Pie and Pastry Bible (20 page)

VANILLA, CHOCOLATE, OR GINGERSNAP NUT CRUMB CRUST FOR A 10-INCH PIE
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
* Do not use Nabisco Chocolate Nillas; the consistency will be too dry.
†Lightly toasted, if not prebaking the crust.
vanilla wafers, Nabisco famous chocolate wafers,* or gingersnaps	1 cups crumbs, lightly packed	5.6 ounces	160 grams
pecans or walnuts†	cup	2.3 ounces	66 grants
sugar	4 teaspoons	0.3 ounce	8 grams
salt	2 pinches	•	•
optional: ground cinnamon	¾ teaspoon	•	•
unsalted butter, melted	5 tablespoons	2.5 ounces	71 grams

FOOD PROCESSOR METHOD

Process the cookies with the nuts, if using them, the sugar, salt, and the cinnamon or vanilla, if using, until the cookies become fine crumbs, about 20 seconds. Add the melted butter and pulse about 10 times, just until incorporated.

HAND METHOD

Place the cookies in a freezer bag and use a rolling pin to crush them into fine crumbs. (If using nuts, grind them fine but not powder-fine.) In a medium bowl, combine all the ingredients but the butter and toss with a fork to blend. Stir in the melted butter and toss to incorporate it.

FOR BOTH METHODS

Using your fingers or the back of a spoon, begin by pressing the mixture into the bottom of the pie pan and partway up the sides. To keep the crumbs from sticking to your fingers, it helps to place a piece of plastic wrap over the crumbs and press them through the wrap. Then switch to a flat-bottomed straight-sided measuring cup or glass to smooth the crumbs over the bottom and all the way up the sides. Be sure to press the bottom thoroughly so that the crumbs are evenly distributed.

To create an attractive top edge:
As you press the crumbs against the sides, they will rise above the rim. Use your left index finger to press against them from the other direction, forming a little ridge or peak. (Chilling the crust for a few minutes firms the butter and makes this task easier.)

SERVING

The finished pie can be cut in the pan or slid out of the pan and onto a serving plate. Either way, it is necessary to loosen the crust from the pan. This can be accomplished by using a dish towel dipped in hot water and wrung well to wipe around the bottom and sides of the pie plate, two or three times. Or, the pie plate can be dipped carefully into a pan of warm water. The butter on the outside of the crust will start to melt and the entire pie or individual slices will come out intact.

STORE

Refrigerated, up to 1 week; frozen, up to 6 months.

POINTERS FOR SUCCESS

Softened butter will work in place of melted butter, but I find that the melted butter is incorporated more evenly and quickly.

UNDERSTANDING

You will see many basic recipes for crumbs crusts using 5 tablespoons of butter but the amount of crumbs will vary between 1¼ cups and 1
cups. That is because crumbs are very difficult to measure. Don’t be concerned, as within that range the crust will still work: fewer crumbs, and it will be less firm; more, and it will be stronger and harder.

For baked crusts, too much butter produces a very hard crust. Too little butter produces a very fragile crust, not advisable for pies with meringue toppings. Meringue needs to be anchored to the crust to keep it from shrinking when it bakes. If the crumb crust is too fragile, it will come apart as the meringue contracts.

Graham crackers and gingersnaps contain 3.4 grams of fat per 32 grams. Butter cookies generally contain considerably more fat (always be sure to check the box), so they cannot be used to replace the cookies indicated in these recipes because, during baking, the crust will slide down the sides of the pan. Less butter is used when nuts are added because they contain more fat than the cookie crumbs.

DELUXE CHOCOLATE WAFER CRUMB CRUST

T
his crust is one of the easiest pie crust recipes in this book. Bittersweet chocolate, heavy cream, and vanilla conspire with store-bought chocolate wafers to produce an intensely fudgy crust. For years I made this crust simply by adding chocolate and water to chocolate wafer crumbs. Then the cookie manufacturers decided to produce only low-fat chocolate wafers, except for the Nabisco Famous chocolate wafers, which are often difficult to find. The Chocolate Nillas contain only 4.5 grams fat per 32 grams. The lower fat produced a dry and crumbly crust. My solution was to add the missing fat in the form of heavy cream
and butter. Just as well that they removed their tasteless shortening! The crust has never tasted better.

This crust is tender but firm enough for a spectacular presentation, especially when removed from the pan.

PASTRY FOR A 9-INCH PIE MAKES: 12.25 OUNCES/247 GRAMS
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
42 1 -inch chocolate wafers (such as Nabisco Chocolate NiUa)*	1½ cups crumbs	5.5 ounces	156 grams
fine-quality bittersweet chocolate, broken into squares	one 3-ounce bar	3 ounces	85 grams
unsalted butter	6 tablespoons	3 ounces	85 grams
heavy cream	1½ tablespoons	0.75 ounce	22 grams
pure vanilla extract	½ teaspoon	•	•

PASTRY FOR A 10-INCH PIE MAKES: 16.25 OUNCES/460 GRAMS
INGREDIENTS	MEASURE	WEIGHT
VOLUME	OUNCES	GRAMS
*Do not use Nabisco Famous chocolate wafers; the consistency will be too soft and gritty.
56 1 -inch chocolate wafers (such as Nabisco Chocolate Nilla)* 2 cups crumbs	7.25 ounces	205 grams
fine-quality bittersweet chocolate, broken into squares	1 3-ounce bars	4 ounces	113 grams
unsalted butter	8 tablespoons	4 ounces	113 grams
heavy cream	2 tablespoons	1 ounce	29 grams
pure vanilla extract	¾ teaspoon	•	•